Liriopes Muse - Advice From a Master Arborist

The Toxic Relationship Between Distressed Trees and Grass

Fri, 17 Apr 2026 12:47:25 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Toxic Relationship Between Distressed Trees and Grass

A common concern amongst our customers is why grass does not grow beneath their trees. Often times they notice their grasses growing in patchy, weak, or just not at all around the trunk and under the canopy of their tree(s). In short, this is due to the tree’s allelopathy, a natural biochemical defense system that helps ward off pests, fight diseases, and suppress competing vegetation. It works by reducing nutrient availability in the soil and by affecting the germination, growth, survival, and reproduction of nearby plants.

Before we dive in, I highly recommend reading my previous post on allelopathy and its relationship to grasses and other plants. It will give you the background needed for the more in-depth discussion to come in this blog:

Lirope’s Muse: The Toxic Relationship Between Trees and Grass

My previous blog discussed the allelopathic relationship between healthy trees and grasses, in this blog we will discuss the relationship between distressed trees and their surrounding grasses and vegetation.

What causes a tree to become distressed?

There are many factors that may cause a tree to become distressed. The most common reasons that we come across in the field are: disease, over-pruning, improper application of mulch(volcano mulching), under-watering, improper planting, mechanical damage (like that caused by construction), root compaction, root damage, pest infestation, and chemical/herbicide damage. All of these stressors trigger the tree into a fight or flight like response, however the tree can’t move or leave the situation, all it can do is defend itself. So, it begins releasing stronger concentrations of allelopathic chemicals in attempt to ward off the pests, compartmentalize a wound, prevent pests from entering a wound, and source more water and nutrients it may be lacking. As a result, these potent biochemicals naturally are exuded into the surrounding soils, poisoning and choking out the existing vegetation, while also making it impossible for new grasses to sprout.

*The image above is from The Wild Nature Institue, it shows a giraffe browsing on a tree and if you look closely at the branches of the tree, you can even see the little ant colonies presents in the bublbs just beneath the thorns*

Giraffe and Acacia Tree Example

Trees aren’t entirely defenseless, and the Acacia tree is a great example of this. They not only can defend themselves chemically, but they have sharp thorns and spines of varying lengths oppositely arranged across the branches and limbs to protects the leaves and blooms from relentless herbivores… like the giraffe.

They also commonly host symbiotic ant colonies that have taken up residence in the swollen bases of the thorns. These ants help provide additional defense against menacing herbivores as they rush out to attack anything disturbing (eating) the leaves or branches of the tree.

Giraffes are known to eat more than 100 different kinds of plants, but the acacia tree is a favorite because its leaves and blooms are rich in protein, water, and calcium, all of which are especially valuable in the harsh savannah environment. It is essentially a superfood, and over generations, giraffes have adapted to be able to eat it in fascinating ways.

According to Sue, a Biology Professor, Giraffes have prehensile lips which can grasp and manipulate branches and leaves, their lips have developed a fine layer of hairs to help protect the lips from thorns. In addition, giraffes have exceptionally long tongues, up to 20 inches in some individuals, and the tongue is very muscular and flexible, which helps the animal pull leaves away from the branch. The inside of the giraffe’s mouth and its tongue are covered with hardened, bumpy skin, which protects them from being punctured by thorns and the attack of ants. Further, giraffe saliva is thick and sticky, which also helps coat the mouth and the digestive tract from accidental puncture by thorns.

So, it seems that giraffes have successfully countered the acacia tree’s spiny anti-herbivory defenses through their fascinating anatomical adaptations. What else is the tree left to do to defend itself? Use its allelochemicals, of course!

When an Acacia tree senses itself being eaten on, it launches into action and begins releasing biochemicals in the form of tannins into the leaves. The tannins are polyphenolic molecules that bind to proteins and make them unavailable for digestion, and their astringent, bitter taste makes the plant material unpalatable to the giraffes.

Some Acacia trees even release Hydrogen Cyanide compounds (Yes, like the poison!), not enough to kill the giraffe, but definitely enough to give them a stomachache and make them think twice about eating their leaves.

The longer the giraffes feed, the more allelopathic chemicals are released and after just 10 minutes the whole tree becomes unpalatable and the giraffe is forced to move on. But the Acacia’s have become intelligent, they know if they become toxic they’d just move to their neighboring tree and begin feeding there so they’ve learned to communicate. Yes, communicate you read that right! Plants that have been browsed, or eaten on, release a molecule called ethylene (the same molecule that is released by ripening fruit). Ethylene is carried through the air to neighboring plants and triggers the release of tannins in the plants it reaches. Chemically signaling to them that a group of giraffes is on the prowl and may come feed on them! In just a matter of minutes, all of the acacia trees for miles can become inedible to the giraffes… and they’ve picked up on this! They’ve found a way to outsmart the trees, giraffes will travel upwind once a tree has warded them off because they’ve “caught wind” on the trees’ strategy! It won’t be long, however, until the trees outsmart the giraffes yet again.

Something I found interesting upon my research is that the more giraffes feed on the tree, the more that the tree produces nectar for the ants that it hosts, so that they can con tinue to grow in numbers and protect the tree. But here’s the twist, if the giraffes go extinct or aren’t around to feed on the acacia trees, the ant numbers would begin to dwindle, more aggressive ants and beetles would be able to move in and take up residence in the tree and instead of being symbiotic they’d be predatorial and acacia trees all around would begin to suffer and possibly even die off! So essentially, if giraffes didn’t eat on acacia trees they’d probably go extinct or severely dwindle in numbers!

The Toxic Relationship Between Distressed Trees and Grass

The most common stressor that we come across affecting trees is over-pruning and regular or unnecessary pruning. Just like in the example of the Acacia trees above, their allelopathic response is a result of a pruning-like event. They lose their leaves and branches in large numbers due to the giraffes browsing, and in response, they release their tannins.

The response is very similar to when trees in urban landscapes are pruned on, the only difference is that they can’t defend themselves chemically against humans and ward them off with a bitter taste. Still, they release concentrated amounts of allelochemicals (the exact type varies by tree species)that travel throughout the tree and are released into the surrounding soils by their roots. This concentration of biochemecals in the soil make for a very inhospitable environment for other vegetation, especially grasses, to grow and germinate. Thus, leaving patchy, thin, or no grasses at all beneath the tree right around the trees CRZ (just under the canopy)

So, if you notice that you can't seem to keep grass under your trees, despite seeding and proper irrigation… Its’s time to rethink your pruning schedule because there is a chance you are stressing out your trees !

Death by Herbicide: True Crime Stories from our Arborists

Fri, 10 Apr 2026 00:12:16 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Death by Herbicide: True Crime Stories from our Arborists

As arborists we see crimes committed on trees daily, often in the form of egregious over pruning, over application of herbicides, improper mulching, and obvious man-spread disease(via dirty pruning equipment). We not only observe this up close and personal with our customers’ trees, but on our commute through parks, neighborhoods, city streets, and just about everywhere we go. The difference between these assaults and the ones we are about to cover is that most often these happen as a result of ignorance of the biology of trees and lack of experience rather than pure malice.

The following are 3 real accounts given by our arborists, detailing real tree murders they’ve witnessed. Reader discretion advised.

Disclaimer: For the protection of both our Arborists and their customers, we have redacted all names, identifying characteristics, and site images from these accounts.

1. The Tree Murder Next Door

Our arborist arrived on a site to estimate a routine pruning job and assess the overall health of the trees in a customers yard, when the customer pointed out their neighbors’ tree. They expressed their concern that the tree looked diseased and were worried about the possibility of it infecting their trees, so after the arborist finished the assessment on the customers yard, they visited the neighbors yard. What they found next was shocking…

Upon examination of the tree, it was obviously unhealthy and in a state of steep irrecoverable decline, but it wasn’t until the arborist took a closer look at the tree that they found the culprit. There were numerous massive holes drilled into the lower trunk of the tree ranging from an inch to two inches in diameter. These holes were slanted downward into the center of the tree, obviously very meticulously and intentionally done. The inside of the holes were blackened and the outsides were discolored, showing necrosis. Meaning something toxic was poured into the freshly drilled holes of the tree, and by the symptoms and pattern of decline it was definitely some sort of herbicide.

So, someone drilled holes directly into the trunk of a tree in a manner that would ensure the poison they poured in would stay, filled the holes with poison, and ultimately killed the tree. Was this as a result of vandalism, neighbor rivalry, or a person in an HOA who wanted to remove the tree but couldn’t do so unless it was proven “sick”?

2. Killed For The View

We received a call from a customer who was concerned about their dying olive tree, so we dispatched out one of our arborists to go assess the site. Upon speaking with the customer, the grim details of the situation began to unravel. They planted a lovely olive tree in their yard less than 2 weeks before our visit. The day that the tree was planted, they received an anonymous threatening letter from a neighbor telling them that they cannot plant that tree there (on their own property) and that they must remove it immediately, OR ELSE…

Shaken by the letter and proud of the new tree they had rightfully planted on their own property, the customer chose to ignore the threat and carry on with their life. Unfortunately, just three days after planting the customer noticed a drastic decline in her olive tree and surrounding plants in the garden bed. They knew they planted the tree properly and watered it adequately, so they contacted us to figure out what could’ve possibly led to such an abrupt and sudden decline.

Immediately upon close inspection of the site, the arborist noticed the presence of a foreign orange-yellow powdery substance around the base of the olive tree. The arborist also noted the surrounding vegetation near this substance showed signs of sudden and significant decline, including leaf browning, dieback, and loss of vigor. Right away, the arborist suspected herbicide use, so they questioned the customer if they use any sort of herbicide in their landscape and the customer was insistent that they’d never used herbicides before.

With the threatening letter and obvious foreign herbicide application, this was a serious situation that the customer wanted to pursue with the law, so a report needed to be written, and herbicide use needed to be proven.

To confirm the suspected herbicide sabotage, a soil sample was collected from the area with the highest concentration of the powder. A bioassay test was conducted using a Vinca plant. The process was as follows:

• The collected soil was placed in a container with the Vinca plant.

• The plant was watered daily, with leachate (water draining through the pot) collected and reapplied to maintain consistent herbicide exposure.

Within a short period, the Vinca exhibited symptoms including:

Browning and crisping of leaves
Flower dieback
Overall loss of vigor and decline

These symptoms closely paralleled the decline observed in the customers Olive tree. So, based on the physical evidence at the site, the results of the bioassay, and the rapid decline pattern of both the Olive tree and the test plant, it was the professional opinion of the consulting Arborist, that the tree’s decline was in fact caused by herbicide poisoning.

After working with the customer further, it was discovered that it was their next-door neighbor who sabotaged their olive tree because it impaired their perfect waterfront view and they could not have that.

3. Herbicide Bombs

This next account is not based on one single event, rather it is something a few of our arborists have experience with, herbicide bombs.

Herbicide bombs are what we call water balloons filled with lethal concentrations of herbicide and thrown into trees. While this is not especially common, it still happens far too often. We typically diagnose this type of damage by the distinct splash-like patterns that appear throughout the canopy, along with blotchy patches of decline consistent with herbicide injury in landscapes where no herbicides are being used. In some cases, remnants of the balloons can even still be found in the grass below. The natural question, of course, is who would do something like this? Disturbingly, we have found a recurring pattern: in case after case of herbicide bomb damage or death we have encountered, the customer had recently severed ties with their landscaping company…

You read that right, estranged landscaping companies ( allegedly ) have been known to create these herbicide bombs and throw them at the trees of their ex-customers! So, think twice before hiring, and firing, your landscaping company because there’s a chance your trees may fall victim to a fatal attack such as this.

These real accounts, given by our Arborists, are a sobering reminder that sometimes the greatest threat to a tree is not disease, insects, or drought, but a person with a grudge and some herbicides.

The 3 Types of Tree Rot: How to Identify Risk and Know When to Remove

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 14:20:13 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The 3 Types of Tree Rot: How to Identify Risk and Know When to Remove

There are 3 primary types of decay in trees: Brown rot, white rot, and soft rot, all of which are majorly caused by basidiomycetes and some species of ascomycetes. As wood decays, structural components (cellulose, hemicelluloses, and/or lignin) are degraded, its appearance and texture change, and strength is lost. The type of wood decay is generally determined by which components are degraded.

Before we delve into the types of wood decay and how they affect a tree, it is important to first understand the chemistry and composition of the wood. Wood is primarily comprised of three major structural compounds: cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin. Each of these plays a different role in the life of the tree, and the way decay fungi attack them is what determines the type of rot that develops.

Cellulose is the main structural framework of wood. It is made up of long, tightly bound chains of glucose molecules that form strong fibers within the cell walls. You can think of cellulose as the steel reinforcement of the tree’s wood. It gives wood much of its tensile strength, meaning its ability to resist pulling, stretching, and bending forces. In practical terms, cellulose helps a tree remain flexible enough to move in the wind without immediately snapping. When cellulose is broken down by decay organisms, the wood rapidly loses strength and becomes far less capable of supporting the canopy and resisting failure.

Hemicelluloses are also carbohydrates, but they are structurally different from cellulose. They are shorter, more branched, and less organized molecules that surround and bind with cellulose fibers in the cell wall. Hemicelluloses act almost like a filler or matrix that helps connect the cellulose framework together. They play a major role in the wood’s moisture balance, flexibility, and internal bonding. Because hemicelluloses are less chemically stable than cellulose, they are often among the first components to be altered during the decay process. Their breakdown weakens the internal integrity of the wood and can make it easier for fungi to continue colonizing and degrading the remaining structure.

Lignin is the third major component, and it is very different from the other two. Unlike cellulose and hemicelluloses, which are sugar-based compounds, lignin is a highly complex, dark, aromatic polymer that acts almost like a natural glue. It fills the spaces between cellulose fibers and gives wood its rigidity, compressive strength, and resistance to collapse. Lignin is what allows a tree to stand upright and support massive loads over time. It also helps make wood more resistant to water movement through the cell walls and slows down biological attack. In many ways, lignin is the compound that makes wood “woody.” When lignin is selectively destroyed, the wood can become pale, stringy, and fibrous because the cellulose framework remains behind. When cellulose is removed instead, the remaining lignin-rich wood often becomes dry, brittle, and crumbly.

Together, these three components create a material that is remarkably strong, lightweight, and biologically functional. A living tree depends on this balance for both mechanical support and vascular function. Decaying fungi do not simply “rot wood” in a general sense; they target these components in different ways. That is why understanding cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin is essential before discussing the major types of wood decay. The specific compound being degraded largely determines whether the wood becomes stringy, spongy, brittle, or crumbly, and ultimately how dangerous that decay may be to the tree's structural stability.

*Pictured above are two photos of brown rot, the photo on the left by Penn State Extention showns the brittle and crumbly structure

caused by the decomposition, and the photo on the right by ResearchGate shows a decayed cross-section of a trunk*

Brown Rot

Brown rot is often one of the most structurally concerning forms of decay because it primarily attacks cellulose and hemicelluloses, the components that give wood much of its tensile strength and flexibility, while leaving much of the lignin behind. Because the darker lignin remains, the wood usually turns brown, dry, brittle, and crumbly, and it commonly breaks into the classic cubical cracks associated with advanced brown rot. From a mechanical standpoint, this is a big deal: when cellulose is removed, wood can lose strength quickly even before there is dramatic visible hollowing.

Most brown rot fungi are Basidiomycetes. They attack wood using a combination of enzymatic and nonenzymatic chemistry, including oxidative reactions that rapidly depolymerize cellulose and hemicellulose in the wood matrix. In practical arboriculture, brown rot is often treated as a serious warning sign because wood affected by it can become deceptively weak while still retaining a fair amount of outward form. A tree with localized brown rot does not always need immediate removal, but brown rot in the trunk, root flare, buttress roots, or major scaffold attachments is never something to casually ignore . If the decay is associated with conks, cavities, cracking, or high-value targets, removal may become urgent.

*Pictured above are two photos of white rot, the photo on the left by forest pathology shows the soft stringy, and whitened structure

caused by the decomposition, and the photo on the right by forest pathology shows a decayed cross-section of a trunk*

White Rot

White rot is different because it is the decay class best known for attacking lignin, the compound that gives wood much of its rigidity and compressive strength. Many white rot fungi also degrade cellulose and hemicellulose as the decay progresses. Depending on the fungus, the process may be selective delignification, where lignin is removed faster, or simultaneous rot, where lignin and carbohydrates are degraded together. The resulting wood often becomes pale, bleached, stringy, soft, or spongy.

Most white rot fungi are also Basidiomycetes, although some outliers occur in the Ascomycetes. Arborically, white rot is important because it can cause extensive internal decay in the trunk, roots, or major limbs. Some white rots hollow wood over time, and a tree may continue standing on a residual shell of sound wood for years. That means white rot is not automatically an immediate removal sentence . However, it can still be extremely serious, especially when associated with root decay, butt rot, trunk conks, rapid progression, or a thinning residual wall. Certain white rot fungi can also invade living sapwood, kill cambium, and in some hosts progress aggressively.

*Pictured above are two photos of white rot, the photo on the left by ResearchGate shows the soft yet crumbly decayed structure caused by the decomposition, and the photo on the right by Independent Tree shows a decayed and squishy-centered cross-section of a trunk*

Soft Rot

Soft rot is the third major decay class, and it is typically associated primarily with Ascomycetes rather than Basidiomycetes. It is different from the other two because it tends to produce more localized decay, often forming microscopic cavities within the secondary wall of wood cells. In broad terms, soft rot commonly affects cellulose and hemicelluloses first, though it can also degrade lignin in the immediate zone of fungal growth. It is often associated with very wet conditions, and it is known for thriving where conditions are too harsh or saturated for many other decay fungi.

In living trees, soft rot is generally considered slower and often less likely than brown or aggressive white rots to produce massive structural change quickly, but that does not mean it is harmless. Research shows that once soft rot becomes visually evident, substantial strength loss can still be present. So, as with the others, soft rot does not automatically mean “remove the tree now,” but it absolutely means the tree should not be dismissed without inspection , especially if the decay is in a critical area, the tree already has other defects, or it is located near a significant target.

Does Any Type of Rot Mean Immediate Removal?

No single decay type automatically means immediate removal in every case . The correct decision depends on the amount of decay, the location of the decay, the tree species, the size of the defective part, occupancy beneath the tree, and whether the tree has compensating sound wood or additional defects. That said, brown rot in major structural wood is often the most immediately concerning, because the wood can lose critical strength early. White rot can range from manageable to severe, especially when it affects roots or the lower trunk. Soft rot is often acts slower and is not an immediate concern in the beginning stages, but still significant when advanced or located in a critical zone.

Presence of fruiting bodies such as mushrooms, brackets, or conks are also important in the removal decision factor, because they often indicate that decay has been present for quite some time; in some cases, visible conks do not appear until many years after decay began, meaning the fruiting body is often a late symptom rather than an early one and points to a far more advanced case than initially thought.

Acceptable Risk

When choosing how to go about mitigating a tree with one or more of these types of rot, you must first identify what amount of risk is acceptable to you based on your property conditions. Acceptable risk is the level of risk a property owner is willing to tolerate after considering the tree’s condition, the likelihood of failure, and what could be struck if that failure occurs. No tree is completely risk-free, and not every decayed tree requires immediate removal. A tree with decay in a low-use area of a property, where there are no meaningful targets beneath it, may present a level of risk that some owners are comfortable accepting and monitoring over time. However, that same tree over a home, driveway, patio, play area, or other frequently occupied space may present a level of risk that is no longer reasonable. In other words, acceptable risk is not just about the presence of decay itself, but about whether the potential consequences of failure are something you are truly willing to live with.

Identifying Targets

When evaluating a decayed tree, one of the most important steps is identifying the targets that could be struck if the tree, or even just a large limb, were to fail. A target is anything of value within the potential fall zone of the tree.

This includes obvious things such as:

· your home

· garage

· driveway

· vehicles

· fences

· sheds

· patios

· pools

· and neighboring structures

It also includes things that aren’t occupying the space at all times such as:

· people

· pets

· play areas

· sidewalks

· walkways

· outdoor seating areas

· and any part of the property that is used regularly.

Keep in mind that targets are not limited to what is directly under the trunk, large limbs can extend well beyond the base of the tree and may reach roofs, parked cars, or places where people frequently pass or gather. To properly identify targets, look at where the tree could reasonably fall, where major branches could land, and what is typically beneath or around it during daily use. The more valuable or frequently occupied the area is, the more serious that target becomes.

Wood decay is not something to panic about, but it is also not something to overlook. The type of rot matters, the location of the decay matters, and the targets beneath the tree matter. A decayed tree in a remote corner of a property may be an acceptable managed risk, while that same tree over a home or driveway may be an unacceptable hazard. The goal is not simply to ask whether a tree has rot, but to ask what kind of rot it has, how that decay is affecting structural integrity, and what could happen if it fails. When you understand those factors, you can make better, safer, and more defensible decisions about whether a tree should be preserved, monitored, reduced, or removed.

Preservation First, Removal Last

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. , removal is always considered a last resort . Our top priority is preserving trees whenever it can be done responsibly, because mature trees provide value, beauty, shade, and environmental benefits that simply cannot be replaced in any meaningful timeframe. We believe every tree deserves to be evaluated carefully and professionally before removal is recommended. In many cases, proper pruning, monitoring, support systems, soil care, or other mitigation measures may allow a tree to remain in place safely for years to come. When removal is recommended, it is not because it is the easiest option; it is because, after weighing the tree’s condition, structural integrity, targets, and overall risk, preservation is no longer the responsible path.

If you are concerned about the health of your tree or safety of your property and loved ones, give us a call and we can have a certified arborist give you a consultation on the health of your tree soon!

Resources I found helpful during my research:

https://forestpat hology.org/general/wood-decay/

https://www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/pdf2018/fpl_2018_kirker002.pdf

https://extension.psu.edu/brown-rot-in-wood

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Brown-rotted-wood-decay-from-the-collection-of-Holzforschung-Muenchen-Technical_fig3_346421380

A Certified Arborist’s Guide to Hanging a Tree Swing

Fri, 27 Mar 2026 18:48:42 GMT

Liriope's Muse: A Certified Arborist’s Guide to Hanging a Tree Swing

The temperatures are rising and it is the perfect time to put that swing up in the backyard tree that you’ve been telling yourself you’d do for years. Whether it is a fun swing for your children or one you can swing on in the quiet of the morning with a coffee, adding a swing to your backyard can completely transform it. I speak from experience!

I recently acquired a swing, for my daughter, and held onto it for nearly a month before I decided to finally hang it up in the Bald Cypress tree in the center of my backyard. And let me tell you, it changed everything for me and my little family. We went from spending no time in our backyard hardly at all, to now we are out there for at least an hour(oftentimes, many hours) each day! I would’ve never guessed something as simple as adding a swing would get us out and, in the sun, as much as it has!

If there’s one thing you take from this blog, its to get a swing! Whether it's a play swing, a DIY swing (ideas at the end of the blog), or a wooden chair swing for two, I say now is the time to go for it! In this blog, I will go into depth on how to choose the right branch and install the right hardware to ensure the tree's health and the swing's longevity in your backyard for many years to come!

Is my tree a good candidate for a tree swing?

Trees are much stronger than we give them credit for! So, there are many trees that make a good candidate to host a swing. What you are mainly looking for is a healthy, mature, and established hardwood tree that is capable of supporting large lateral limbs without defects.

Conditions that typically rule out a tree as a swing host are disease, borer infestation, deep cavities, obvious decay, cracks in the branch unions, bark loss, excessive dead wood, and an overall unhealthy-looking tree. These signs often point to the tree’s structural weaknesses and potential failure in the future.

As for branch selection, you want to choose a scaffold branch, one that connects directly to the main trunk of the tree (not just any large branch; size doesn’t always represent strength). The union of the branch should be strong and U-shaped and free from cracks, included bark, and decay, as V-shaped unions and those with damage are far more prone to failure. Branches with lions tailing should also be avoided as the unbalanced foliage mass at the tip creates a lever of sorts and increases the bending stress on the branch.

In short, a large branch (a good rule of thumb here is at least 8 inches in diameter) strongly connected to the trunk of a mature, healthy, hardwood tree makes the perfect candidate to host a tree swing! If you have any questions about your possible host tree, or need help deciding on the best branch, give our office a call and we’d be happy to send one of our Arborists out for a consultation to advise you on the branch best suited for a swing!

*Tree examples that make great hosts: Oaks of any kind, Sycamores, Bald Cypress, Pines, Pecans, Elms, etc!

**the photo below is by the University of Florida , it gives various branch connections, and I thought it'd be helpful in your

selection of the right one**

Will a tree swing hurt my tree ?

Making any amendment to your tree will surely affect it to some degree, but how you apply the swing is what really makes the difference.

We strongly advise against using rope wrapped directly around a tree branch to secure a swing, as this method can injure the branch in two primary ways: constriction(girdling) and abrasion.

If the rope is installed too tightly, or even left in place long enough as the branch continues to grow in diameter, it can begin to girdle the limb. Girdling restricts the movement of water, sugars, and other essential compounds through the branch’s vascular tissues, which can lead to decline, dieback above the attachment point, and, in severe cases, failure of the limb itself. Which can pose a serious danger to you, your loved ones, and your property.

The second issue is friction. A swing is a dynamic load, meaning the rope does not simply rest on the branch; it moves repeatedly under tension. That constant back-and-forth motion acts like a saw against the bark, gradually stripping away the outer protective layer and damaging the cambium just beneath it, which is one of the tree’s living growth tissues. This direct attachment creates concentrated friction and wear at the anchor point, sometimes resulting in severe damage in a relatively short period of heavy use. Once the bark is worn away, the branch becomes far more susceptible to infection, insect attack, decay, and long-term structural weakness.

While wrapping a rope directly around a tree limb may seem like the easiest option, it is also one of the most damaging and potentially dangerous methods of installing a swing. Despite how commonly it is recommended by poorly informed sources, this practice can injure the branch, compromise the tree’s health, and increase the risk of limb failure over time, so it should be avoided entirely.

Another method of tree swing installation that is very commonly recommended by arboricultural professionals and harmful to the health of the branch is a tree sling. In theory, it minimizes friction and spreads out the surface area of the load. But in practice, it still harms the trees' important cambium tissues.

Compression of any kind, whether widened or narrowed, still restricts the flow of essential water and nutrients to the tree and hinders the tree's growth, which causes reaction wood and rot to form on the tension side (or topside of the branch). Which, if left in place too long, can lead to serious structural failure of the limb.

Installing hardware, as outlined in the next section, is the least damaging and invasive means of swing application. Unlike the rope and sling methods discussed above, it does not constrict the cambium, create ongoing surface abrasion, or subject the branch to chronic and repeated injury over time. Instead, when installed correctly, it creates a single localized wound that the tree can compartmentalize and gradually occlude as it continues to grow.

Installing the tree swing:

I worked in collaboration with another one of our ISA Certified Arborists, Shane Krajnik, in this instillation section to lay out the exact process we offer to our customers to give you the ability to attempt to hang a tree swing in the proper and least damaging way on your own for just the cost of the materials (assuming you already have this equipment on hand). If you are uncomfortable with this process, you feel your tree is too high, or simply don’t have the right equipment we’d be happy to install the hardware and chain for you!

The following is a step by step guide of how to install the proper swing hardware, layed out as if our own crew were to do it by ISA Certified Arborist Shane Krajnik:

First , determine if YOU really want to install the swing. Heights are scary, and most trees that can truly support a swing are fairly tall. For instance, where this swing was installed, the lowest limb was over 20 foot high. Tall ladders are expensive, and falls are even more expensive. So please do not follow these directions if you are not 1000% comfortable installing the swing yourself.

Second , now that you have determined you want to install the swing yourself instead of hiring an arborist to climb the tree and do the job while roped in, you need to round up the supplies. Those will be a ladder of suitable height to reach the lowest limb (typically an extension ladder), a semi-powerful CORDLESS drill (be careful you don't want something that will throw you off the ladder if it gets bound up), a Wrench that corresponds to the nut size, Angle Grinder to cut off the extra thread, a 1/2" Wood Auger Drill Bit, for thinner limbs a 1/2" FORGED threaded eye bolt is suitable, but for thicker limbs a 1/2" thick piece of all thread with an "Amon Eye Nut/ Regular Eye Nut" can be used, the corresponding nuts (2 is always recommended as double nutting is the proper procedure), the correct size washer, sometimes 2 can be used if the washers are thin and easy to bend, a galvanized forged swivel, 3x 3/8" stainless quick links, and finally Galvanized 3/8 grade 30 proof chain. We use hardware rated a minimum for 2200lbs, so we recommend only using hardware this grade or stronger.

The following is a list of the materials needed as mentioned in the second step:

1x Ladder

1x Cordless Drill

1x Wrench that corresponds to the nut size

1x Angle Grinder to cut off the extra thread on the Threaded Eye Bolt/ All Thread

1x 1/2" Wood Auger Drill Bit

1x 1/2" Thick Forged Threaded Eye Bolt or All-Thread Rod with a Forged Amon/Regular Eye Nut

2x Nuts that fit the Threaded Eye Bolt/ 3x Nuts that fit the All-Thread Rod

1-2x Washers that are the correct size for the Threaded Rod (depending on thickness)

1x Galvanized Forged Swivel (if using a swing that has the potential to twist/spin such as a tire swing or web swing)

3x 3/8" Stainless Quick Links

However many feet of Galvanized 3/8" Grade 30 Proof Chain that are needed

Third , Figure out if you need to use A Threaded Eye Bolt or All-Thread Rod with an Eye Nut. Unless the limb is wider than 8", then we recommend using the threaded Eye Bolt. If your limb is larger than 8" then All Thread will be needed. Set up the ladder and measure how much chain you will need to purchase by using a rope or string to measure the distance to the ground and subtract by how high off the ground you want the swing to be and another 6 inches to a lot for the hardware length.

Fourth , the actual instillation. Secure the top of the ladder to the limb with a rope to ensure the ladder does not move while doing the dangerous part. Put the drill bit in the drill and drill a vertical hole through the limb (from the bottom). Now insert from the bottom the Threaded Eye Bolt/ All Thread Rod through the hole (the threads should be sticking up to the sky). (if using all thread, put the Amon/Regular Eye Nut on first, then screw it on enough to install a nut, then screw the nut on until 2-3 threads are exposed past the nut, then back the Amon/regular eye nut down to the nut until they are tight against each other (this is the same thing as double nutting (this will remove some of the "free space" within the eye nut, but that’s not important as the swing will always be pulling down))

Fifth , once the Threaded Eye Bolt/ All Thread with Eye Nut and Nut are inserted into the drilled hole put the 1-2 washers on the threads until the washers are touching the limb, now put your first nut on and start screwing it down until its compressing the washers against the limb. Keep tightening until you physically cannot tighten the nut anymore (make sure to use hand tools such as wrench or socket and pliers. We don’t want it tightened with electric tools), now install the second nut and tighten until its compressing the first nut (this is called double nutting and stops the nuts from ever backing out). Once both nuts are on, the rest of the threaded rod is no longer important, to avoid any issues with something getting caught on this rod sticking up we advise cutting it flush against the nut to leave a smooth surface free of hangs.

Sixth , now the hard part is done, all you have to do is hang the chain and install the swing now!! You must use one of the Stainless Quick Links to attach the Forged Swivel (if choosing a swing that has the potential to twist around) to the Eye that’s now bolted into the tree. Attach another Quick Link to the other side of the swivel to attach the chain.

So, it goes Threaded Eye Bolt/ All Thread with Eye Nut, then Quick Link, then Swivel(if applicable), then quick link, then chain.

Seventh , now you can remove the rope tying the ladder to the limb, climb down, remove the ladder, and now your chain should be at the height you measured for + 4-6 inches (because of the quick links and swivels). If the chain is too long, cut it to the correct height with the angle grinder as well. We also recommend installing an additional quick link to the end of the chain to make attaching the swing easier (hence why we say 3 quick links)

Attach the tree swing to the quick link and boom! tree swing installed.

DIY tree swing ideas:

Lets face it, tree swings can be a little pricey and there’s a chance you may have exactly what you need to make one lying around your garage right now, and if not, they are far more affordable to make!

The following are step by step DIY Guides for making tree swings that walk you through all of the materials and equipment you need to create your swing, but please DO NOT follow their instillation techniques. Instead, you’d fasten the end of the rope to the quick-connect hardware at the end of the installed chain!

For a traditional tree swing, check out this blog!

https://www.instructables.com/Traditional-Garden-Tree-Swing/

For a fun children’s swing, check out this blog!

https://www.momendeavors.com/simple-diy-tree-swing-2/

For a classic tire swing, check out this blog!

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-make-a-diy-tire-swing-5211752

For a more complex build using an upcycled pallet, check out this blog that shows you how to build a nice lounging swing made from pallets!

https://needlesandnailsblog.wordpress.com/2015/04/06/diy-pallet-swing-relax-and-enjoy-spring/

The 10,000 Hour Rule: What It Really Takes to Become an Expert

Fri, 13 Mar 2026 15:58:19 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The 10,000 Hour Rule: What It Really Takes to Become an Expert

In many fields, there’s a simple idea that gets repeated often: it takes about 10,000 hours of practice to truly master something.

The concept became widely known through Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers, but the idea itself is older than that. At its core, it’s a reminder that real expertise isn’t built overnight. It’s built slowly through repetition, experience, mistakes, and years of learning.

Ten thousand hours may sound like an abstract number, but when you break it down, it begins to make sense. If someone spends about 40 hours per week working on a craft, it takes roughly five years of full-time effort to reach that mark. And even then, the hours only count if they’re spent actively learning, improving, and refining skills.

In other words, mastery isn’t just about time. It’s about intentional practice .

Why Experience Matters

In almost any profession, experience changes how people see problems.

A beginner often looks at a situation and sees only the obvious details. Someone with thousands of hours of experience sees something completely different. They notice patterns. They recognize early warning signs. They remember similar situations from years earlier and understand how things might unfold.

This is why experienced professionals tend to make decisions faster and often better than someone new to the field. Their brain has essentially built a massive internal library of past situations.

Think about musicians, pilots, surgeons, or master craftsmen. Their ability doesn’t come from reading about their field; it comes from doing the work repeatedly over time .

The Value of Time in a Craft

The 10,000 hour idea highlights something many people overlook today: skill takes time.

We live in a world that often prioritizes speed. Quick tutorials, shortcuts, and instant results are everywhere. But when it comes to complex skills, there really isn’t a substitute for experience.

Every hour spent practicing, observing, and solving problems adds another layer of understanding.

Over time, those hours compound.

A carpenter learns how wood behaves in different climates.
A mechanic learns to hear subtle differences in an engine.
A chef learns how ingredients interact.

The same principle applies to almost every craft.

What Mastery Actually Looks Like

Interestingly, true experts rarely claim to know everything. In fact, the opposite is usually true.

The more experience someone gains, the more they realize how much there is still to learn.

Mastery often looks like:

Paying attention to small details others miss
Recognizing problems early
Understanding long-term consequences of decisions
Knowing when not to take action

These insights only come from years of real-world experience .

What This Means in Arboriculture

Tree care is a field where experience matters more than many people realize.

At first glance, trees may seem simple. But anyone who has spent years working with them knows they are incredibly complex living systems. Tree health is influenced by soil conditions, root structure, climate, pests, pruning history, construction activity, and countless other factors.

It takes thousands of hours of observation to truly understand how trees respond to these influences.

At Eric Putnam BCMA , our Board Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam, is a firm believer in the 10,000-hour concept. After more than three decades working in arboriculture, he often says that becoming truly skilled in tree care isn’t about quick certifications or shortcuts, it’s about years of hands-on experience learning how trees actually behave in the real world .

Every diagnosis, every pruning decision, and every tree health recommendation is informed by thousands of hours spent studying trees in the field.

Because when it comes to caring for something that can live for generations, experience matters.

And like any true craft, arboriculture rewards those who dedicate the time to truly understand it.

Spring Tree Buying Guide: How to Choose Healthy Nursery Stock and Plant It Right

Fri, 06 Mar 2026 17:14:16 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Spring Tree Buying Guide: How to Choose Healthy Nursery Stock and Plant It Right

Spring is in our midst and trees are beginning to adorn the garden section of just about every big box store, choosing the right one and planting it properly can set it up to thrive for generations. In this blog, we will discuss how to select strong nursery stock and how to properly plant them to ensure their survival, production, and longevity in your landscape.

#1 Don’t buy from a big box store!

Try to find a local nursery with a good reputation; their only job is to tend and care for their nursery stock. They’ll weed out any failing plants, monitor and prevent pests, regularly maintain and prune as needed, ensure each tree gets adequate water, re-pot the tree if it becomes too large for its pot, and, overall, will take much better care of their nursery stock.

Now, big-box stores such as HEB or Walmart have to make sure their produce is fresh, their shelves are stocked, their customers are happy, and their floors are shiny. They aren’t as concerned about their nursery stock as they should be; it is just another product to them. They sit in the garden sections, under-watered, under-cared for, and nearly ignored for months. These box stores are also likely to sell you plants that are not equipped to survive/thrive in your climate without warning, so it is important to do research on each tree before purchasing if you decide to use a big box store.

So, while an apple tree from Home Depot may be cheaper than one from a local nursery, the lower price often reflects a difference in quality and care. Trees sold through big-box stores are typically mass-distributed and may not receive the level of watering, pruning, monitoring, and overall attention needed to develop into strong, healthy specimens. By contrast, trees from reputable local nurseries are often better maintained and more carefully selected, making them a wiser long-term investment for homeowners who want lasting success.

#2 Research the tree

It is important for you to research a tree before purchasing it, both to ensure it is well-suited to your climate zone and to understand its specific care and maintenance requirements. Not every tree will thrive in every environment, and a tree that is poorly matched to the site will struggle from the very beginning.

Taking the time to learn about a tree’s mature size, sunlight needs, water requirements, soil preferences, and long-term maintenance can help you make a more informed decision and greatly improve the tree’s chances of long-term success in your landscape.

#3 Find a tree with a strong and healthy growth structure

To ensure longevity and a productive future for your tree, you must choose one with an appropriate growth structure for that species. So, familiarize yourself with the growth structure of that tree before you choose one.

For example, when selecting a pine or a cypress, you’d want to look for stock that has a strong dominant central leader. However, when looking for a tree such as a loquat or redbud, finding stock with multiple stems is not an issue.

A pine with codominant stems is a dangerous tree and will fail at some point in the future, so it's essential that one with a single strong stem is chosen. Now, a single-stemmed peach tree is not ideal to support an abundance of fruit production. In other words, the “ideal” tree structure depends heavily on the species, and what is considered a strength in one tree may be a drawback in another. So do your research, finding a tree with the proper growth structure is the first step in ensuring the longevity of the tree in your landscape.

#4 Look at the roots

The roots are the tree's lifeline; if the roots are unhealthy, the tree will be unhealthy. So it is essential that you choose stock with healthy roots to ensure their survivability and longevity. To identify healthy roots, you are going to have to get your hands dirty and look closely at the base of the tree.

Firstly, identify whether the stock is containerized or container-grown. For a healthier and stronger tree, we recommend choosing a container-grown tree. (Containerized trees are trees that have been grown in the ground and then removed and potted. When this happens, the tree usually loses about 90% of its root system.)

Second, identify the structural roots. They should not be buried under more than an inch of substrate; most ideally, they should be visible from the surface. If you have to excavate more than an inch of substrate to find the structural roots or root flare, the tree is buried far too deeply and should be avoided. Another easy way to identify if there is extra soil is to grab the trunk and gently move it in a circular motion. If a gap forms between the soil and the trunk, this is an indication that the soil level is too high.

Third, assess the root ball. Ensure that the roots are not bound too tightly, as this can cause girdling roots and long-term health issues for the tree in the future. Make sure the roots are relatively loose or can be loosened easily.

And lastly asses their health, this step is much easier for a trained eye, but the main thing you need to look for is necrosis. This presents as black roots (not blackened by the soil) with a foul odor emanating from them. So don’t be afraid to give the root ball a sniff! Our noses are a very important tool for diagnosing in the arboriculture field. It should smell earthy and ‘brown’; if it smells of alcohol or rot, then avoid that tree.

#5 Assess the overall vigor

This step requires a thorough visual assessment. Carefully inspect the tree for any signs of poor health or physical damage, such as broken branches, missing bark, flagging branches with dead leaves still attached, or leaves that appear discolored, distorted, or otherwise abnormal. These issues can all indicate that the tree is already under stress or in poor health before it is even planted.

Sourcing a strong, healthy tree from the right place and selecting one that suits your landscape is essential, but it is only half of what determines whether the tree will thrive for generations. Proper planting is just as important as choosing the right tree, as even the healthiest nursery stock can still struggle and even fail if it is not planted correctly from the start

*Above is the ISA's planting guide. More specifically, poor-draining soils, which is especially relevant in the Greater Houston area

since most of the soils are clay/gumbo*

How to properly plant your new tree:

So, you’ve done your research and you’ve found a strong healthy tree (or trees!) to add to your landscape, amazing! Before any digging is done, always call 811 to make sure there are no underground hazards, such as pipes or fiber-optic cables, that you could possibly run into. (This process takes 24-48 hours to have someone come check out your planting site and is free.) After you receive the all clear, it’s time to plant!

According to the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Best Management Practices for Tree Planting and the ANSI A300 Part 6 Tree Planting Standard, proper planting begins with identifying and exposing the tree’s root flare, which is the point where the trunk widens, and the first structural roots emerge. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the root ball itself, ensuring the root flare sits slightly above the surrounding soil grade once planted. (You may eyeball this step, but actually measuring the root ball is helpful here, too)

The tree should then be removed from its pot, and the roots loosened before being placed in the center of the digging hole. You can loosen the roots by creating a claw-like shape with your hand and scratching around the sides and bottom of the root ball until the roots appear loose and shaggy. The excavated native soil should then be used to backfill the hole while firming it to eliminate large air pockets, but gently enough to avoid compacting it. (If your soil is clay/gumbo-like, like in most of the greater Houston areas, we recommend lightly amending it with some sand or topsoil before back-filling to enhance drainage and root growth) After planting, the tree should be watered thoroughly to settle the soil into place and hydrate the root ball, and a routine watering plan should be established. Whether via an automatic irrigation system or manually watering, proper and regular irrigation in the trees' first 2 years is another crucial step in ensuring it's survival and establishment for generations to come.

Proper planting following these standards helps establish a stable root system and greatly improves the tree’s chances of long-term health and success in the homeowner’s landscape.

If you have any questions about the tree species you’ve chosen, how to select the right one, what its maintenance/irrigation needs are, and tips on proper planting, please don’t hesitate to call our office (832) 385 – 1836 and ask to speak with and arborist, there is always one in office and they’d be more than happy to answer your questions!

Gabi Putnam

ISA Cerit. TX-378271A

*Picture below are some visual diagrams that you may find helpful on your

planting journey*

Arborist observation: Asian Cycad Scale

Fri, 27 Feb 2026 18:01:25 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Arborist observation: Asian Cycad Scale

In the past few months, our field Arborists have noticed a drastic increase in Asian cycad scale infestation of sagos. They have observed many sagos all across the greater Houston area, presenting with a thick white coating starting at the trunk and spreading outwards, covering the fronds completely in the most serious cases. The arborists have noted that initial symptoms of infestation include small yellow spots on the upper surface of fronds, and as the infestation progresses, fronds become brown and desiccated.

Asian cycad scale, more formally Cycad Aulacaspis Scale (Aulacaspis yasumatsui), is an armored scale insect with piercing-sucking mouthparts that feeds by extracting sap from cycad tissues, steadily depleting the plant’s resources and weakening overall vigor; in heavy or prolonged infestations, this can lead to severe decline and plant death in a very short period of time. These scales are further protected by a dense coating consisting of layers of wax, shed skins from previous generations, and dead scales, forming a thick “crust” that shields the insects and makes them largely resistant to many contact pesticide applications.

Unlike other species of scale, the Asian Cycad Scale has been known to attack the roots of the plant up to 2 feet deep! This makes it particularly persistent because if an infestation is not fully controlled, even a small number of surviving scale bugs can rapidly re-establish a colony.

Spread

Asian cycad scale does not readily disperse long distances on its own. The insects are extremely small and lack wings or other effective means of long-range movement, so new infestations most commonly occur through human-assisted transport, particularly the movement of infested nursery stock, plant debris, or improperly handled/dumped cycads that still harbor live scale (including on roots and in leaf bases).

Control

When left unchecked, severe infestations can kill a sago in a matter of weeks to months, so these infestations should be taken seriously, and your sago needs to be treated as soon as you notice signs of the scale’s presence.

Many resources, including the listed UFAS will recommend the use of horticultural oils weekly for at least a month to keep the populations at bay, but we do not recommend the use of any sort of horticultural oil as the oils can increase heat load on exposed tissues and elevate the risk of sunscald/phytotoxicity, often resulting in additional plant stress and injury that outweighs the limited level of scale control achieved. Typically, horticultural oils provide only limited suppression and are rarely sufficient as a stand-alone control for established infestations. Because they work primarily through direct contact, they require thorough coverage and multiple repeat applications to impact successive life stages.

Since these scales are coated in a thick waxy armor, making them nearly impossible to penetrate with a pesticide from the outside(or by contact). So, we’ve found it best to target them using a systemic pesticide. A systemic pesticide is one that is absorbed by and translocated throughout the plant, making all parts of it toxic to the pests feeding on it without harming the plant. This includes the trunk, leaves, cones, seeds, roots, and most notably the sap of the plant. When the scales feed on treated tissues, they ingest the pesticide and are killed. In other words, rather than relying on contact sprays to reach insects protected under an armored covering, we manage them systemically, treating the plant so the control comes from the inside out.

In our field experience, applications of Acephate 97 (brand name Orthene) paired with our biostimulant to support uptake and overall plant vigor, have provided excellent control of cycad aulacaspis scale populations and successful recovery of affected sagos.

Resources:

https://www.texasinvasives.org/pest_database/detail.php?symbol=20

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pests-and-diseases/pests/cycad-aulacaspis-scale/

https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/ip-23.pdf

A day in the life of one of our Arborists

Fri, 20 Feb 2026 19:14:34 GMT

Liriope's Muse: A day in the life of one of our arborists

Ever wonder what a day for an arborist looks like at Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.? Well wonder no further, I’ll break it down for you!

Each arborist begins their day at 7 am at EPBCMA Headquarters in a meeting with myself, ISA Certified arborist and writer of this blog, our full spray crews, and of course our mentor and owner Eric Putnam (BCMA).

These meetings are centered around their continuing education, so we may read one of my weekly blogs, talk about a recent discovery, discuss and present a disease, ailment, or pest that is common to our service area so they can become familiar, or simply delve into the ISA Certification Study Guide. We use these meetings as team building as well, so we share any positives we’ve had with customers or personally throughout the week and we leave it open for discussion if by chance the arborist stumbled across something in the field that they’ve never seen before or wanted to share with the rest of our team! (This is often where I get inspiration for my blog topics. They identify a common question or issue from customers and I answer it through a blog!)

On Wednesdays, we hold an estimating arborist check-in meeting where we discuss sales and any concerns or compliments that the customers may have had for each of them throughout the week.

After these meetings, the arborists will look at their pre-routed and time-blocked schedule to get an idea of their travels for the day but also to get to know each customer they will be visiting and their specific concerns.

Our arborists cover a service area with a radius of over 60 miles; that’s just over 11,000 square miles! With much of this area being located within the Greater Houston metro, travel times can vary significantly due to many factors such as traffic and the varying needs of each customer and site. For that reason, we schedule appointments in time blocks to maintain a realistic route and to give our arborists the flexibility to reach you within the scheduled window, even if traffic is heavy that morning or a prior appointment takes longer than expected. Our time windows begin at 9AM to 1PM and end with 1PM to 5PM. In this time period each arborist will visit 5-10 clients all across greater Houston.

Before travelling to the job, the arborists will contact the customer letting them know they are on their way and what their expected ETA will be so that they can be prepared for the visit. Now what each jobsite looks like can very heavily from residential front yard, commercial property, to large multi-hundred acre ranch. But what does not vary is their process.

First, the arborist will speak with the property owner or manager to understand their concerns and identify the specific tree(s) in question. From there, they conduct a thorough inspection of the target tree(s) and the surrounding site conditions. This “whole picture” approach is critical; details like nearby structures, recent herbicide use, soil conditions, irrigation patterns, and past disturbances can all influence what’s happening and what the best plan should be.

If the request is for pruning, the arborist evaluates several key factors before recommending a scope of work: the customer’s objective (such as clearance, aesthetics, or risk reduction), how that species responds to pruning, and how to achieve the goal without causing unnecessary stress or long-term harm to the tree. They also assess practical job-site considerations, including access, obstacles that could hinder crews, the amount of debris that will be generated, and the estimated labor hours required to complete the work safely and efficiently.

For tree removal, the process is similar but with additional risk-focused considerations. The arborist determines whether the tree truly needs to be removed or whether it can be preserved with proper care. They assess the hazard level (for example, internal decay, structural defects, or root instability), the tree’s location relative to targets like homes, driveways, fences, and power lines, and the safest approach for removal. Just like pruning, they also estimate debris volume and crew time to ensure the project is planned correctly from start to finish.

Plant Health Care (PHC) looks different because it often requires going deeper than what’s visible at first glance. When a diagnosis isn’t immediately obvious, the arborist will investigate the broader landscape history, like recent construction, changes in drainage, soil compaction, irrigation issues, herbicide exposure, and other stressors that can trigger decline. Once the cause is identified, the arborist works with the customer to build a customized care plan tailored to the property, the tree species, and the client’s goals.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) follows a similar diagnostic approach, but with a focus on identifying the pest(s), determining severity, and selecting the most effective and responsible treatment strategy. The arborist evaluates how extensive the infestation is, whether the tree is treatable and worth saving, and whether nearby trees are susceptible and should be addressed proactively. They also consider the underlying conditions that may have led to the outbreak (such as drought stress, poor soil health, or improper pruning) so the problem is solved at the root, not just treated on the surface. From there, they develop a plan based on the specific pest case and the unique conditions of the customer’s landscape.

After formulating a treatment or tree work plan that works for the customer and the landscape, the estimate is then off to our office to get the work scheduled and completed.

Finally, they spend the remainder of their afternoon following up with previous customers and with homeowners who have received an estimate but haven’t yet approved it. This time is used to answer any last questions, clarify the recommended scope of work, review options and timelines, and make sure each customer feels confident about the plan before moving forward. And that completes a day in the life of one of our arborists!

In short, our arborists start each morning with training under myself and our Board-Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam. From there, they head out across our expansive service area to complete inspections and consultations, and they finish the day by following up with customers, answering any remaining questions about the diagnosis and recommended treatment plan, and helping get the next steps scheduled.

Mistletoe: The Romanticized Parasite

Fri, 13 Feb 2026 14:56:43 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Mistletoe: The Romanticized Parasite

Mistletoe has been present in Texas for decades, but in the recent months our arborists have noticed a vast uprise in mistletoe cases across the greater Houston area. While it has always occurred locally, we have not previously seen it at the frequency, or severity, we’re encountering now.

The Mistletoe is parasitic to over 1,300 tree species worldwide and more than 30 in Texas alone. In our service area, however, we are finding it on various oaks, elms, sugarberries(hackberry), and several types of pines.

*Above are photos taken by our arborists in the field. The left-most photo is a close-up photo that our arborist took of mistletoe in the crook of a tree. If you look closely, you can see what the mistletoe's attachment to the tree looks like. The two right most photos were taken of a deciduous oak tree with a heavy infestation of mistletoe*

American mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.) is an evergreen parasitic plant, that also has the unique ability to photosynthesize which categorizes it as a hemiparasite; meaning it obtains part of its nutrients and energy from a host and the other part from photosynthesis.

In East Texas, mistletoe is dioecious, with male and female flowers borne on separate plants. The flowers are small and creamy-white, and only the female flowers produce seed. Those seeds are white and surrounded by a sticky, gelatinous pulp, which helps them adhere to bark after they’re dispersed. Via hitchhiking on (or in) an animal, transported by humans when the plant is removed from the tree, or by explosive discharge. (Some species have the unique ability to shoot seeds from their berries up to 50ft away and at 60mph)

Trees aren’t completely defenseless to mistletoe. In fact, in order for the tree to become under attack by mistletoe, it must first be weakened and stressed by some other factor (such as construction damage or drought). The seed must also land in the right location; if it lands on thick mature bark, the haustoria (the plant's root-like structure) will not be able to penetrate the thick, hard surface. In order for mistletoe to successfully inhabit a tree, it must land on newer growth where the bark is thin and soft enough for the haustoria to penetrate and enter the bark through a lenticel or bud and make its way into the trees vascular tissue.

Once a mistletoe seed lands on a suitable host, it enters a gradual and slow germination phase that takes 2-3 years. In this stage, mistletoe relies heavily on its own photosynthetic capacity to produce its energy while it works to gain purchase in the host. First-year ariel growth is very minimal (often >0.5 inches), as the plant prioritizes building a functional haustorium, its attachment and uptake structure, before it invests in visible canopy growth. Once it reaches the host’s conductive tissue, it begins to grow and mature much quicker (some species can reach up to a 3 foot spread in just 6-8 years).

The Romanticized Vampires:

Mistletoe is thought to have been first romanticized by Celtic Druids in the first century A.D., in part because it remained green and thriving through winter conditions. When trees had dropped their leaves and the landscape appeared dormant, mistletoe could still be seen flourishing in the canopy. This persistence led the Druids to regard it as a sacred symbol of vitality, and they reportedly used it in remedies for both people and animals, believing it could help restore fertility.

Mistletoe’s associations with fertility and vitality continued through the Middle Ages, and by the 18th century it had become widely incorporated into Christmas Celebrations. Just how it made the jump from sacred herb to holiday decoration remains up for debate, but the kissing tradition appears to have first caught on among servants in England before spreading to the middle classes.

As part of the early custom, men were allowed to steal a kiss from any woman caught standing under the mistletoe, and refusing was viewed as bad luck for her future marriage. Another common tradition involved plucking off a white berry for every kiss taken under the mistletoe, once the berries were gone the smooching ended. In this custom, each berry on a sprig of mistletoe had come to represent a kiss that a man was allowed to bestow upon a young woman standing underneath the plant, and “when the berries are all plucked the privilege ceases.”

Now that we have an understanding of the most well-known love themes associated with mistletoe, lets address why they are ‘vampires’.

Mistletoe is a parasite that sucks the life from branches of its host, by inserting its fang-like haustoria into an open bud or lenticel on the bark and entering the trees vascular system where it draws out water, minerals, and the trees essential sugar reserves. This parasitic siphoning may not solely kill your tree, but it can lead to a ‘vascular tug-of-war’ that gradually weakens and stresses the host leaving it susceptible to host more serious pests and pathogens that WILL kill your tree. Such as bark borers or a vascular disrupting fungal pathogen like phytophthora.

Management :

Mistletoe can live in a host tree for over 100 years and has few natural enemies, so effective control is very difficult.

Mistletoe plants can mature as soon as 3 years, and mechanically removing the aerial portion of the plant before it matures and produces seeds can benefit some as you’ll be less likely to spread its seed if it has not yet produced any. That said, mechanical removal can be attempted at any point in the plant’s life cycle, but it should be noted that the mistletoe will continue to regrow from its established haustorium. (Removing part of the wood where the mistletoe attaches to its host should be avoided as it causes more damage than the mistletoe itself.) Mechanical removal is only suggested if it can be done safely and economically, like if it is a serious infestation, constantly removing the hard-to-reach mistletoe from your tree may prove to be more difficult than it is worth it.

The one thing that can be done in an attempt to prevent regrowth of the mistletoe after its removal, which harms the tree the least, is to wrap the removal site on the branch in a thick black plastic for at least a year. In theory, this would block the sunlight and oxygen and the plant would eventually die from this but there are a few issues with this method. Firstly, this can be damaging to the tree if wrapped too tightly and not closely monitored; it also blocks light and oxygen from that area of the tree too. Second, plastic degrades so it’ll need to be regularly changed and maintenanced so as to ensure zero light at any point penetrates or else it’ll have been ineffective. So not only is this process stressful to the tree, expensive, and labor-intensive, but it is also very unsightly and, in the end, may not even have been effective!

Some think that herbicides may be effective for mistletoe control, but they are very harmful, more so than the parasite itself. Since the plant is intertwined with the trees vascular system, when it is sprayed with an herbicide, it’ll back feed into the tree and the tree will also be poisoned. Herbicides should NEVER be used in the control of Mistletoe!

Small, infested limbs can be removed by pruning and have been shown to be successful at the removal of the parasites from the tree without further spread. But large limbs should never be removed from the tree as it can cause serious damage

So, the next time you think about sneaking a kiss with your lover under a mistletoe, think about how it has spent its life, draining the life from a tree!

Fun Facts I Found During My Research:

Ancient Anglo-Saxons noticed that mistletoe often grows where birds leave droppings, which is how mistletoe got its name: In Anglo-Saxon, “mistel” means “dung” and “tan” means “twig,” hence, “dung-on-a-twig.”
As they mature, mistletoes grow into thick, often rounded masses of tangled branches and stems, which can often cause arborists to mistake them for “witches brooming”. These tangled masses can reach 5-feet wide and weigh 50 pounds.
Three kinds of U.S. butterflies depend on mistletoe for survival: the great purple hairstreak, the thicket hairstreak, and the Johnson’s hairstreak. These butterflies lay eggs on mistletoe, and their young eat the leaves. The adults of all three species feed on mistletoe nectar, as do some species of native bees.
The mistletoe’s white berries are toxic to humans but are a valuable source of food to other mammals species like: deer, elk, squirrels, chipmunks, and porcupines.
Extracts from mistletoe are newly being used in Europe to combat colon cancer, the second greatest cause of cancer death in Europe and the Americas. This treatment research is showing signs of being more effective against cancer and less toxic to humans than standard chemotherapy.

Resources:

https://blog.nwf.org/2012/12/12-things-to-know-about-mistletoe/

https://www.history.com/articles/why-do-we-kiss-under-the-mistletoe

https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/trees/tree-health/whats-on-my-tree/mistletoe/

Rose Rosette Virus (RRV): A Preliminary Case Study in Symptom Reversal and Recovery Response

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 17:05:04 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Rose Rosette Virus (RRV): A Preliminary Case Study in Symptom Reversal and Recovery Response

Hello all, thank you for taking the time to read this blog! I want to preface, this will be sort of a long read as it is going to detail our journey to having possibly found a working treatment to the devastating Rose Rosette Virus(RRV) and if you aren’t familiar with the virus, ill link some great resources so that you can learn more about it devastating effects on roses around the world.

*The photos above were taken on site by our arborist prior to treatment. The bushes are clearly sick and presenting with the RRV*

We were called out November 17th to assess a regular customer of ours rosebushes, upon inspection it was clear they were suffering from some sort of epinastic growth. Initially, the arborist identified it as herbicide damage (Rose Rosette Virus is often very commonly mistaken for herbicide damage) and a mite or aphid infestation as these bugs are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye but do the same type of damage.

At the time of this inspection, we did not typically work on ornamental bushes, especially roses and weren’t familiar with all of the diseases that may plague them but were willing to try our best and treat this customer’s bushes because they were a loyal customer of ours and they cherished their rose bushes.

So we formulated a treatment plan to treat the rosebushes for the herbicide and mite/aphid damage and it went as follows:

Tank 1 (25 Gal) : Pesticide/Miticide and Biostimulant treatment was applied via broadcast spray.

· 25 Gal of water

· 0.5 lb of Humic Acid

· 0.5 Qt of molasses

· 1 packet of Merit 75 WSP

· 0.5 lb of Orthene 97

· 0.25 Qt of Tengard SFR (acaricide)

Our Arborist prescribed Merit 75 WSP and Orthene 97 as systemic pesticides to kill any pests that may try and feed on the plant (A systemic pesticide is readily absorbed by the plant and translocated through its vascular system, making the plant’s tissues toxic to insects that feed on it while not harming the tree) and Tengard SFR as a contact pesticide to kill any present mites/aphids on the plant.(Also not harmful to the tree)

Humic Acid and Molasses make up our biostimulant treatment (Black Gold), which the pesticides were mixed into. Humic acid has an immeasurable amount of benefits, but to scratch the surface (and specifically in this case), adding humic acid to the soil grows the fungi and bacteria in the soil's microbiome exponentially. These fungi and bacteria help make nutrients in the soil available to the plant that weren’t previously. It also grows the plants mycorrhizae (or fungus roots), which encourages new root growth, improves water and nutrient uptake, defends the plants' roots from harmful pathogens/fungi, boosts the soil structure, and enhances drought stress resistance, leading to healthier, more resilient plants with lots of growth and high yields (of flowers and fruit). Humic acid reduces the saline conditions within the soils due to irrigation and excessive chemical fertilizer use. It also changes the anaerobic (lacking oxygen) soil conditions to aerobic (with oxygen), making for more favorable conditions that support healthy fungal growth, nutrient uptake, and the soil food web. Humic acid is able to achieve these seemingly impossible feats via its ability to change the soil's ionic makeup. (For an easy read about humic acid, click here; for a more scholarly paper, check out this one .)

Molasses is the yin to humic acids yang. The molasses feeds the healthy bacteria in the soil, unlike humic acid, which mainly feeds the fungi. These bacteria are the ones responsible for nitrogen cycling and oxygen production. This combination creates completer and more concentrated microbial nutrients, more powerful than mulch, leaf litter, and compost. Together they work in perfect unison feeding the soil food web and supporting the plants they surround.

Water works as the perfect carrier, activating the products and allowing for the biostimulant and pesticides to penetrate down through the soil and be absorbed by the plant.

Tank 2 (25 Gal) : Fertilization treatment applied via rootzone injection

· 25 Gal water

· 3.75 lb of Dogget 32-7-7

The arborist prescribed a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer treatment to be applied at a 10% rate, not because there was a deficiency of nitrogen in the soil, but to stimulate quick new growth so that the rose could outgrow the epinastic growth. The treatment was applied via rootzone injection in a 1-foot grid, with only a few ounces being released per injection site.

(It is very few and far in between that our arborists at Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. choose to prescribe a chemical fertilizer treatment; it has to be a special case, such as these roses.)

Prescribed Pruning:

Our arborist prescribed the customer to prune out all damaged, epinastic growth on the rosebush to conserve energy and redirect resources toward healthy new growth supported by the fertilizer and biostimulant treatments. Left in place, this tissue functions as a metabolic sink, drawing carbohydrates and nutrients away from recovery and productive growth in an already stressed plant.

** Disclaimer: This was performed before we had the knowledge that the rose bush was infected with RRV, as there is a strict no-pruning advisory in place. However, after these findings, it may be possible to change that !

After we treated the customers' shrubs, we just kind of moved on, hoping we’d resolved the issue and possible pest damages, and went on about serving other trees. About 6 weeks after the treatment, roses were again brought to our attention. This time, it was an entire neighborhood whose rose bushes were in very poor condition. A condition very similar to the customer’s roses we had recently treated. So, we began investigating various common rose diseases and came across the lethal Rose Rosette Virus. Upon research, the outlook seemed grim. Every peer-reviewed paper and research institution article that we came across told us that it is an incurable disease and that not only will the rose die from this but we should uproot it and as much of its root system as possible and dispose of it in the trash or via burning immediately.

Eric, our Board Certified Master Arborist, went out to inspect the roses in the neighborhood after getting a rather deep understanding of the virus and after speaking in depth with the landscaper in charge of all of the roses, he concluded that this case was ironically a case of herbicide misuse but this experience called into question the initial customer's rose bushes. So, Eric reviewed the site images and went back to the customer's house and confirmed that the roses did, in fact, have the Rose Rosette Virus. At the time of his revisit, it had been about two months and on his arrival, the rose bushes were THRIVING! Upon close inspection of the new growth, there were no physical symptoms present, and the rose bush had completely flowered out for the first time in months, and had not flowered out healthily and to the customer's satisfaction in years!

Our theory is if the roses still had the virus then the new growth would present with symptoms, but the brand new growth was healthy and exhibited no signs of epinastic growth whatsoever!

*The photos above were taken 2 months after we completed the treatment, the new growth is healthy and not showing any signs of the RRV and the bush is blooming bountifully!*

Here are some articles we found to be very informative and helpful in our research on RRV, we hope they can teach you something too:

Texas A&M: https://cdn-de.agrilife.org/extension/departments/plpm/plpm-pu-045/publications/files/rose-rosette-demystified-1.pdf

South Carolina Clemson University HGIC: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/rose-rosette-disease-frequently-asked-questions-how-to-identify-it/

DEFRA of the UK: https://planthealthportal.defra.gov.uk/assets/factsheets/Pest-Factsheet-Rose-Rosette-Virus.pdf

Oklahoma State: https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/rose-rosette-disease.html

To companies and other agriculture organizations:

We’d be glad to partner with you, wherever you are located to test this promising treatment on roses suffering from this virus worldwide to save as many rose bushes as possible! Call our office and ask for Gabi Krajnik (ISA Certified Arborist TX-378271A and author of this blog!) at (832) 385-1836 and I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have regarding why we did our treatment the way that we did and how you too can try it out on your local diseased bushes.

The infected roses are fated to be removed and destroyed anyway, so why not give it a chance?! You not only will be possibly saving your rose bushes but also allowing roses to remain in your landscape

Palms, Parrots, and Pine Trees? Florida’s Botanical Identity Crisis

Fri, 16 Jan 2026 17:55:49 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Palms, Parrots, and Pine Trees? Florida’s Botanical Identity Crisis

Recently, I traveled to Odessa, Florida to visit some family and admire the lush tropical scenery. I’ve always had a deep appreciation for Florida’s unique and vibrant landscape, rich with biodiversity and verdant splendor. Sitting just above the equator, the state enjoys a near-tropical climate that creates ideal conditions for its lush variety of plant life and ecosystems.

(To learn more about the foreign vegetation wonders that thrive in Florida, check out this blog from my previous travels)

Now when you think of Florida vegetation, you probably immediately think of palm trees, citrus trees, and tropical flowers, while those are quite abundant throughout the Sunshine State, another tree that is rather abundant but tends to fly under the radar is the Norfolk Island Pine.

When you look at the horizon of central Florida, scattered amongst the numerous palms, tropical beauties, and mango trees are Norfolk pines. They are vastly taller than the rest of the vegetation surrounding them, and they sort of stick out like a sore thumb. And it kind of makes you wonder, how did these large, lush, Christmas-giving trees find their way into Florida’s landscape?

In this blog, we’ll explore what makes the Norfolk pine so unique, how it found its way into Florida’s landscapes, and why it continues to thrive - quietly towering above the rest - as a distinctive, often overlooked presence in a state known for palms, citrus, and tropical color.

The Norfolk Pine (Araucaria heterophylla), also called the Norfolk Island Pine, is native to Norfolk Island, a remote subtropical island located just off the coast of Sydney, Australia, and nestled between New Zealand and New Caledonia. It’s not native to North America, and in fact, it can’t survive outdoors anywhere in the U.S., except in Florida, where the climate is warm and humid enough to support it year-round, closely resembling the tree’s native environment.

Despite its misleading name, the Norfolk Pine is not a true pine but a tropical conifer belonging to the Araucariaceae family, a prehistoric family of conifers incredibly varied and widespread during the Jurassic and Cretaceous time periods. However along with the extinction of the dinosaurs, the Araucariaceae family lost most of their members. Today, there are only about 41 species remaining in the family.

The Norfolk Pine features a striking pyramidal form, with evenly spaced, horizontal branches arranged in symmetrical whorls around a single, straight central trunk adorned with evergreen pine-like foliage. There are typically 5 branches in each whorl. This coniferous tree is capable of reaching heights over 200ft and trunks 10 feet in diameter if grown outdoors in a suitable environment(in Florida, they typically only reach heights of 60-80ft in height). And though it can grow very large and sturdy, this tree is very sensitive to the cold, as it can begin to sustain freeze damage at just below 40 degrees, so you don’t typically see these beauties any further north than Orlando.

You may be quite familiar with the Norfolk pine already, as it graces nearly every hardware store’s garden section during the Christmas season across the United States. Unfortunately, though, many are bought for the season and discarded with the rest of the decorations after, or are not properly cared for and die soon after being bought.

Indoors, it makes for the perfect shelf plant year-round. Its maintenance needs are relatively low, aside from needing lots of light and a fair amount of humidity. Norfolk pines are very slow growing, typically taking about a decade to reach a height of just 6-8ft, making them the perfect addition to one’s living room or communal space! These trees also make the perfect living Christmas trees; they can grace your home in the winter months and stay on your porch in the warmer months. (to read more about living Christmas trees and the tradition they can bring to your family, check out this blog )

In conclusion, the Norfolk Island Pine is a striking and unusual addition to Florida’s landscape. Towering above the palms and nestled among tropical fruit trees, it brings a distinct vertical elegance to the region’s natural scenery. Though not a true pine, its symmetrical form and prehistoric lineage make it a fascinating part of Florida’s diverse plant palette, and certainly a tree worth noticing.

Sources:

To learn more about home care for Norfolk Pines, check out this site

To learn more about the Norfolk Pine in Florida, check out what the University of Florida has to say about them

Arborist Observation: Ambrosia Beetles, the vectors of Laurel Wilt

Fri, 09 Jan 2026 17:54:27 GMT

Liriope’s Muse – Arborist Observation: Ambrosia Beetles, the vectors of Laurel Wilt

Our field Arborists have noticed an uprise in ambrosia beetle activity across the Houston area, especially on trees, like the Redbay and laurels. Many of the affected trees show tiny “pinhead” boring holes, light sawdust/tooth picking, and large patches of dieback or flagging in the canopy.

Ambrosia beetles have been a common presence in our region for the past few years, but the reason we are paying extra attention right now is because they are causing a devastating epidemic of Laurel Wilt across the Redbays and Laurels in our area.

And the one responsible? The Redbay Ambrosia Beetle or Xyleborus glabratus. It is the known vector of the fungal pathogen Laurel Wilt or Raffaelea lauricola. This fatal pathogen affects all species in the Laurel family, Lauraceae spp., including sassafras, laurel, and bay trees, but in the Greater Houston area, we have found it on the Redbay and Laurel trees.

The inoculation process:

Adult Redbay Ambrosia Beetles bore into suitable hosts, typically one that is stressed from drought, over-pruning, physical damage, or herbicide damage, and lay their eggs beneath the bark in the sapwood of the tree. It is here that the beetles farm and cultivate the Laurel Wilt fungus (that they brought with) in the vascular tissue of the tree to serve as a food source for the growing larva. This food farming process creates anaerobic conditions in the sapwood and results in the production of ethanol and other alcohols, which helps to break down the sapwood and attract other beetles to the tree.

The cultivated fungus spreads throughout the tree’s trunk, blocking the flow of water and nutrients, ultimately choking the tree out and leading to the tree’s decline and death. Adult beetles then emerge with spores to search for new laurel trees as hosts and continue the disease cycle.

Once a tree is inoculated with Laurel Wilt, it can succumb in just a few weeks in severe cases or in just a few months.

All that said, Ambrosia beetles themselves aren’t typically fatal. In fact, a tree can survive many generations and seasons of ambrosia beetle attacks just fine. What’s deadly is the diseases that they bring with.

*The photos above show how devastating Laurel Wilt can be to a landscape, it also shows how it presents

in a tree's canopy via flagging*

Identifying Laurel Wilt:

Since this fungal pathogen affects the tree's vascular system, the symptoms present as drought stress. According to Texas A&M, key indicators of laurel wilt include:

Mature trees are targeted before saplings.
Leaves rapidly change from green to yellow within weeks, eventually turning brown, branches die, and branch tips begin to wilt.
Toothpicking or compacted sawdust tubes across the trunk and major limbs indicating Redbay ambrosia beetle activity.
Small beetle boring holes, about the size of a pinhead, visible on the trunk.
Black-stained streaks on sapwood, just below the bark visible in trees that have recently declined, indicating laurel wilt infection.
Trees that have died do not resprout.

Management :

At this time there is no cure for Laurel Wilt, unfortunately this disease has already taken out about 85% of all of the bay laurels in the southern United States, and is killing thousands of new ones each day and is showing no signs of slowing down. It is believed in just a few years if a cure is not found the Redbays, Laurels, and Sassafras trees will all go extinct.

So, the best thing that you can do for your trees is prevention, keeping your tree on a very strict pesticide regimen. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

According to Texas A&M, Scientists are trying to create a resistant variety of the laurel tree, but at this time they have not been successful.

*The photo above is a cross-section of a tree that was killed by Laurel Wilt, you can see the fungus in the

top left of the sapwood*

Resources I found helpful in my research:

- https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/trees/tree-health/diseases/laurel-wilt/

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10744799/#:~:text=As%20the%20fermentation%20progressed%20during,enhancing%20fungal%20alcohol%2Dproducing%20metabolic%20activity.

Is Your Tree Mulched Correctly? (A 30-second check That Could Save Your Trees Life)

Fri, 02 Jan 2026 16:45:23 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Is Your Tree Mulched Correctly? (A 30-second check That Could Save Your Trees Life)

Proper mulching is like medication, if done correctly it can be very beneficial to the health of your tree, but if done incorrectly, it can be detrimental to the health of your tree and even lead to its demise. Just how taking medication as directed can be curative and helpful, it can also be harmful and possibly deadly if taken incorrectly.

*The tree in the left of the image is mulched property, it is in a donut shape extending 4 feet from the trunk. The root flare is still exposed. The image on the right shows an improperly mulched tree. The mulch is in a Volcano-like shape stacked up against the trunk of the tree. It is also using a red-dyed mulch*

Mulching can be a valuable asset to trees, but it is only a newer thing. Depending on your age, you may remember a time in which mulch was never piled around the base of trees (in the late 70s and before). It was not even found at hardware stores or garden centers; it was simply not a “thing”.

The rise of mulching as we know it today came as a result of the Clean Air Act of 1970. Previous to this law, green industry and milling waste such as sawdust, mulch, and tree bark were burnt for disposal. However, due to the concerns of pollution and the ban on burning as a means of disposal, the wood industry had to find an alternative way to dispose of this green waste.

This is when The National Forest Service (NFS) stepped in and proposed the first idea of mulching these wood scraps, they reported that tree bark and decaying sticks were a useful source of humus in the forest. (Suggesting that adding the scraps to the base of trees and around plants wouldn’t be a bad idea, and can actually benefit them) And so began the American obsession.

Mulch started as a way to properly dispose of green industry waste and quickly became a fad. Factories began creating mulch for the sole purpose of gardening and landscaping. The demand for mulch was high and surpassed the byproducts produced by the mills, so factories started using old pallets, construction site waste, and trees (often diseased) to create their mulch. This changed the purpose of mulching from a helpful way to dispose of waste to a way of beautifying your yard at the expense of your plants. Not to mention the harsh chemicals often used to dye the mulch black or the iconic red many are fond of.

(To learn more about mulching origins and the unsanitary nature of mulch yards, check out this blog! )

How does mulching benefit trees if it was not meant for them in the first place?

Well, mulching can be a very valuable tool in your tree care. Trees for millennia have experienced a natural form of mulching via leaf litter and broken branches that accumulate around the base in wild and undisturbed environments.

When appropriately applied, mulch can help:

Moisture Retention: Mulch acts as a protective barrier against evaporation caused by heat, wind, or low humidity conditions, which significantly reduces water loss from the soil. This ensures more consistent moisture levels for healthy root development and water conservation. Mulch also collects more water during rains for the tree.
Weed Suppression: The mulch blocks sunlight from reaching the soil's surface, which inhibits the growth and germination of weeds. This benefits the tree because it minimizes competition for water, light, and essential nutrients for the tree, and you as the homeowner, as you won’t need to spend nearly as much time weeding!
Soil Temperature Regulation : Mulch works as an insulator to soil, buffering it from extreme temperature fluctuations (Hot or Cold). It keeps the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, which protects the trees' delicate root system from heat stress or frost damage and provides optimal growing conditions year-round.
Soil Health and fertility : organic CLEAN mulches, such as pine bark chips, pine needles, or pine nuggets, decompose over time and release valuable nutrients into the soil. This process enriches the soil, improves its structure, and fosters a thriving soil microbiome/ecosystem.
Protection : Mulch can be installed as a buffer zone around the tree to help prevent mower and string-trimmer damage to the trunk and root flare.
Compaction Control : Mulch is often used during construction or in high-foot-traffic areas to help protect a tree’s critical root zone from soil compaction. It acts as a cushion that disperses the weight of people and equipment, reducing the pressure transferred into the soil and helping preserve pore space for healthy root function.

As you can see, mulching can be a great asset to your tree if applied properly.

Now the 30-second check to make sure your tree is mulched properly:

Walk up to the tree in question and do these quick checks in order. If you only remember one rule: mulch should be a donut, not a volcano.

1) Finding the trunk & root flare

Stand close and look at the base of the trunk.

You should be able to see the root flare, this is the point where the trunk widens and transitions into major roots.

If the trunk goes straight into mulch like a fence post (or the base looks “buried”), the tree is mulch-volcanoed and the trunk is at serious risk of rot and girdling roots.

Why it matters: This dense, over-applied mulch, exposes your tree to constant moisture that can cause the bark to rot and separate from the rest of the tree disrupting the tree’s translocation, or movement of nutrients and water through the tree. The high mulch level can also confuse the tree into thinking it is the soil level making them produce more roots, except these roots grow directly from the bark instead of the root base. These are called adventitious roots. These roots can eventually grow into thick roots that will choke or strangle the base of the tree, ultimately killing it.

2) Looking for a “Donut gap”

Look for a clear space around the trunk.

The mulch should be pulled back at least 3 inches from the trunk on all sides, and the mulch ring should start outside that gap and spread outward.

If mulch is touching the trunk (even “just a little”), it’s too close.

Goal look: bare soil (or visible root flare) right at the trunk, then mulch begins like a donut.

3) The depth check

For this check, you’ll need to get your hands a little dirty, as you’ll be using your fingers like a measuring tool.

Ideal depth: 2–4 inches of mulch.

If you have 1 inch or less, you’re not getting the full benefits.
If it’s over 6 inches, it can reduce oxygen to roots, trap moisture, and encourage adventitious rooting.

Quick hand trick:

The distance between each knuckle on your fingers is about 1 inch, so don’t be shy, stick your hand in there! Your tree’s life could be at stake!

4) Mound width check

Look at how far the mulch extends outward; you don’t need a measuring tape for this one!

Remember : the wider, the better!

Aim for at least 3 feet in diameter for small/young trees, but for mature trees, go as wide as space allows – ideally out toward the dripline (or the outermost edge of the canopy).

A skinny 6-inch ring around the trunk doesn’t help much and often tempts people to pile it higher.

Why it matters: Most of the tree’s absorbing roots are in the upper 6 inches of the soil and spread far beyond the trunk. In fact, some trees' root systems can spread out more than 3 times the length of the canopy! So the wider the better.

5) What’s underneath?

For this check, if you cannot remember, you’ll need to excavate into the mulch in a small area to find what’s underneath.

Under mulch should be soil, maybe natural leaf litter, and some grass.

If you see landscape fabric or plastic, it should be removed immediately! That’s a common culprit for poor water/air movement and funky moisture patterns that can lead to anaerobic soil conditions and root rot.

Rule of thumb: mulch works best when it can “breathe” and slowly break down into the soil.

6) Material & smell check..

Take a quick look, scrape away the top few inches, and sniff (seriously). As arborists, our sense of smell is a very important tool in diagnosing plant disorders and diseases.

What we are looking for: clean wood chips, bark, or pine needles that are: natural brown, varied chip sizes, and smell like fresh wood/earth.

What we don’t like to see: Unnatural uniform chips and dyed mulches contaminated with trash (plastic, rusty nails)
If it smells sour, like chemicals, or like vinegar/fermentation, it MUST be removed immediately as it is posing a serious and possibly fatal risk to your tree!

Why it matters: The sour and fermented smell is a telltale sign of anaerobic conditions in the mulch and soil. These conditions can cause toxic compounds to build, provide the perfect breeding ground for pathogens and harmful fungi, and starve the tree’s roots of oxygen, which is fatal. The smell of chemicals is another smell that should not be emanating from your mulch, it should be replaced and discarded immediately as it could be leaching toxic chemicals into the root zone.

How to correct improper mulching:

First and foremost, there should be no weed cloth or plastic beneath the mulch. If there is, remove it immediately. Next, if there is a noxious odor emanating from the mulch pile, or if it is visibly dyed and unnatural looking, dispose of it immediately.

Once you’ve established that the mulch is rather healthy, the next step would be to excavate the mulch from around the trunk. The mulch should be a minimum of 3 inches from the trunk in all directions. Next you should spread the piled mulch out as far as possible, remember: the further the better for the tree! Lastly, form it into a donut/berm shape (making it highest in the middle and tapering inward and outward). Again, not to exceed 3-6 inches in depth! And that’s it!

I hope you were able to learn something new about mulching with this blog, and I hope you’ll share it with your neighbors, friends, or family who may unknowingly have mulch volcanoes around their trees! And remember: mulching is an essential part of tree care and can be greatly beneficial to your tree if done accurately!

Happy New Year and happy mulching, I wish all your trees the best of health in this new year!

How to Tell When Your Tree Needs Pruning: An Arborist’s Guide

Fri, 26 Dec 2025 17:27:23 GMT

Liriope's Muse - How to Tell When Your Tree Needs Pruning: An Arborist’s Guide

Pruning is one of the most misunderstood parts of tree care. Many companies sell pruning as a way to “storm-proof” a tree or “thin it out so wind can pass through and light can penetrate.” The problem is, those approaches often remove the very structure that helps a tree handle wind loads in the first place.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we take a holistic, long-term view: we only remove what’s necessary to meet your goals as the homeowner while protecting the tree. Why? Because every cut stresses the tree and removes years off of it’s lifespan. And every branch removed is lost energy-producing capacity and stored energy reserves.

This blog covers the real signs your tree needs pruning, what responsible pruning looks like, and why we avoid storm pruning and canopy thinning at all costs!

Our pruning philosophy: protect structure, protect lifespan

A healthy tree isn’t just a collection of branches, it’s a living system. The canopy feeds the tree, supports root function, and helps it respond to loads(ex by weather). When unnecessary branches are removed it can stress the tree out on a physiological level, causing the tree to respond with stress growth (like watersprouts), reduced vigor, and greater vulnerability over time to diseases, pathogens, and especially pests.

We also don’t subscribe to “storm pruning.” Trees rely on natural movement and weight distribution to absorb wind energy (mass dampening). Over-pruning can shift the tree’s center of gravity, reduce its ability to flex naturally, and create long-term structural issues. To learn more about a trees natural mass damping capabilities and why it is essential to preserve them, check out this blog !

Bottom line: We prune for tree health, structural integrity, and safety – never for a quick cosmetic result.

1) Dead, dying, or broken branches

This is the clearest sign pruning is needed. Deadwood doesn’t recover, and it can fail unexpectedly, especially in wind and pose a serious risk to your property and yourself!

Look for:

Branches with no leaves when the rest of the tree is leafed out
Hanging limbs, cracked wood, or “half-attached” branches
Mushrooms or soft/crumbly wood on a dead section
Branch tips that repeatedly die back year after year

Removing deadwood reduces risk without removing the tree’s healthy, functioning canopy. This would just be like trimming the trees hair, it doesn’t cause harm as the cells are dead already!

2) Branches rubbing or crossing

When branches rub and there is constant friction on the bark, they create wounds. These wounds can become entry points for pests, decay organisms, and disease.

Signs to watch for:

Two structural limbs (not branches) touching and scraping in the wind
Bark worn smooth in a line where limbs meet
Tight clusters of competing branches at the same point

Selective pruning here is about preventing future problems with minimal removal, the benefits in this case would outweigh any possible negatives.

It’s important to understand the difference between limbs and branches here, branches, ‘branch’ off of limbs, they are newer growth that still has the ability to adapt and change depending on stimuli(thigmotropism). So, two branches rubbing up against each other may not present an issue, as they still have the ability to grow away from each other in response to that stimulus. Not two limbs rubbing against each other is a different situation entirely and must be addressed, as this can cause serious structural effects on the tree.

3) Low clearance issues over roofs, driveways, sidewalks, and streets

Most of the time pruning isn’t about the tree “needing” it biologically, it’s about the tree needing to be conformed to living in a human environment. An example of this would be a tree growing in or near an urban area.

You may need pruning if branches:

Hang too low over vehicles or pedestrian areas
Contact the roof, gutters, or siding
Obstruct sight lines at corners or driveways

Our approach is to raise clearance strategically, keeping strong, well-spaced limbs and avoiding over-lifting that can destabilize the canopy and cause serious injury. Trees are intelligent beings, they understand if they are being continually pruned in a certain way, such as up and away from a sidewalk, to stop putting branches out in that direction. So, we work to train trees for clearance by strategically removing small branches over time rather than a large essential branch once.

4) A developing structural imbalance

Not every uneven tree is unsafe, trees have a natural ability to adapt to the conditions to they are living in. For example, a tree near a building may develop an outward lean to reach more sunlight (phototropism) or a tree may have slightly fallen over in a storm but the canopy has began to correct itself and grow upwards(geotropism). The key is whether the structure is becoming risk-prone.

Pruning may be appropriate if you notice:

Long, heavy limbs extending far beyond the rest of the canopy
A canopy that has become one-sided after past removals or storm damage
Branches with weak-looking attachments (especially tight “V” angles or multiple watershoots)
A limb that is clearly overextended and sagging year after year (species dependent and may be mitigated with cabling)

This is where storm-pruning myths can do real harm. Stripping inner canopy or “lion-tailing” can actually make end-weight worse and increase failure likelihood. Instead, we focus on selective reduction only where truly needed.

5) Dense interior growth caused by stress or past over-pruning

Here’s an important distinction: we don’t do “canopy thinning” as a routine service. But sometimes trees produce dense, upright shoots (watersprouts) after:

Topping
Storm pruning
Over-thinning
Root damage or construction stress

In those cases, selective pruning can help the tree redirect energy into better structure, but it must be done carefully so we’re not repeating the same cycle of stress.

6) Storm damage cleanup (done correctly)

After storms, some pruning may be necessary, but it’s not “storm pruning.” It’s storm cleanup .

Appropriate post-storm pruning includes:

Removing broken, hanging, or cracked limbs
Making clean cuts back to suitable branch unions
Reducing only what is necessary to prevent further tearing

What we avoid is using storms as an excuse to over-remove healthy canopy “just in case.”

7) The tree is young and needs guidance (the best time to prune)

One of the most valuable, and arguably least discussed, types of pruning is structural training on young trees. Small, early cuts can prevent major issues later.

Young trees benefit from:

E stablishing a strong central leader (when appropriate)
Preventing co-dominant stems from forming
Encouraging good limb spacing and attachment angles

Done early, this reduces the need for large cuts later; and helps the tree live a longer, safer life with less need for maintenance and major pruning later in its life.

What you should not request: “thin it out” or “storm-proof it”

If someone recommends heavy thinning or storm pruning as a general solution, be cautious. These practices can:

Reduce the tree’s energy production
Trigger stress growth and weak re-growth
Remove interior structure that stabilizes movement
Increase end-weight and branch failure over time
Significantly shorten the tree’s functional lifespan
Provide an open door for pests and pathogens to enter the tree

A healthy canopy isn’t a problem to “open up.” It’s the tree’s life-support system.

Our promise: minimal cuts, maximum benefit

We prune with restraint and intention. That means:

Removing dead, damaged, and hazardous growth
Correcting rubbing/crossing where it matters
Making the smallest number of cuts needed for safety and health
Protecting the canopy’s structure, balance, and mass dampening ability

If you’re unsure whether your tree needs pruning, we’re happy to take a look and provide a clear, science-based recommendation free of cost !

Tree-safe lighting tips from your local certified arborist team

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 19:29:27 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Tree-safe lighting tips from your local Certified Arborist team

How to Decorate Outdoor Trees for Christmas Without Damaging Them

Nothing beats the look of a beautifully lit tree during the holidays. But every year, we see the same issue: trees that end up with bark wounds, broken limbs, girdled branches, or stressed foliage because decorations were installed too tightly, too heavily, or with the wrong materials.

The good news? You can absolutely decorate outdoor trees in a way that’s festive AND tree-friendly. In this blog we’ll discuss how to do it safely, while protecting the health and structural integrity of your tree!

1) Start with a quick “tree check” before you decorate

Before adding lights or ornaments, take a minute to assess the tree:

Look for dead, diseased, or cracked limbs (especially over walkways, driveways, or the roof and the areas you wish to decorate).
Notice weak attachments , two limbs forming a tight “V” can split under extra weight, so its best practice to avoid these areas.
Skip decoration on branches that are already drooping or stressed.

If you see hanging limbs, fresh splits, or obvious disease or decay, it’s best to have a professional prune it first. Holiday winds and extra weight load is a common recipe for breakage in weak trees.

2) Choose tree-safe lights and keep the weight low

For outdoor trees, lighter is better.

Best options:

LED lights : we recommened LED lights because they emit lower heat, have lower energy use, and cause less stress on branches.
Small “mini” strands : these are best as they are easier to distribute without concentrating weight.
Staples over nails/zipties : We recommend using staples to secure lights if necessary as they usually won’t penetrate past the outer bark layer and leave the inner cambium intact and unharmed! (think of a trees bark like fingernails, its dead cells that the tree will eventually shed so securing superficial staples will not harm it!)

Avoid:

Heavy, oversized bulbs on thin branches
Large decorations that swing and can “whip” the bark in wind
Anything that requires tight fastening to stay put
Screwing, nailing, zip-tying, or roping anything into place

Rule of thumb: if a branch bends noticeably from the decoration, it’s too heavy.

3) Never wrap lights tightly around branches

This is one of the biggest causes of damage we see. Trees don’t “hold still”—they sway in the wind, and their branches continually expand in diameter (even if the change is too small to notice day to day). So while leaving lights on tightly for more than a month may not seem like a big deal, damage can occur as the lights cut into the bark and begin girldling the tree’s branches restricting its sap flow, choking it out and causing irreverable damage. This damage, coupled with the stress, is an open invitation for pests and diseases to enter your tree!

Tree-safe method:

Drape lights along the branch and loosely spiral them, leaving slack.
Keep lights closer to the tips on sturdy branches rather than tightly cinched near the trunk.

And if you’re using a ladder, don’t lean it against delicate limbs. Instead, use a stable ladder position or have a helper stabilize it.

4) Use the right fasteners (and avoid the wrong ones)

Use:

Soft, flexible plant ties (loose)
Light-duty outdoor clips designed for lights
Small zip ties only if left loose and removed promptly (don’t cinch tight)
Short staples for securing to thick barked trees.

Never use:

Nails or screws into the tree
Wire, fishing line, rope, or anything thin that can “bite” into bark
Tape wrapped tightly around bark (it can trap moisture and damage tissue)

If you need to “secure” something firmly, it’s usually a sign that item is too heavy or too large for that spot and should be avoided.

5) Be careful with ornaments—especially on living branches

Ornaments can be the culprit behind broken twigs and scraped bark.

Safer decorating tips:

Hang ornaments only on thicker, sturdy branches
Choose lightweight plastic instead of glass
Use soft loops (such as twine natural fiber rope) rather than metal hooks that rub the bark
Avoid hanging items where they’ll swing into the trunk or another limb

Wind is the hidden problem: even a light ornament can cause damage if it repeatedly taps the same spot.

6) Watch out for these “holiday tree hazards”

A few common mistakes can harm trees more than people realize:

Putting lights in the canopy during storms or wet weather (safety risk + bark scuffs from rushing)
Climbing the tree (can break branches and create wounds; also, very unsafe and should be left to the professionals)
Thinning the canopy , we’ve noticed many people will thin their canopy to make it “easier” to install lights, this is absolutely detrimental to the trees health and should be avoided at all costs.
Leaving lights on for months after the season
Decorating stressed trees (recently planted, drought-stressed, known diseased or storm-damaged trees need extra care)

7) Timing matters: install gently, remove early

A great goal is:

Install lights in a healthy tree a few weeks before the holiday (less potential damage and stress)
Remove within a few weeks after the holidays (this’ll ensure the tree doesn’t end up being choked by the decorations)

When removing, don’t yank . Reverse your installation path and gently unwind, as pulling strands can strip buds, tear bark, and snap small branch tips.

8) Best trees to decorate (and what to avoid)

Some trees handle decorating better than others.

Typically easier to decorate:

Mature shade trees with sturdy scaffold limbs
Conifers with dense branching (when lights are light and evenly distributed)

Use extra caution with:

Palm trees(they are the only tree inccapeable of healing themselves, so any damage they receive stays with them fo life)
Thin-barked trees (they bruise/wound more easily)
Newly planted trees (still establishing roots)
Trees with long, flexible limbs that whip in the wind

If you’re not sure, keep decorations lightweight and placed on stronger limbs only.

When to call a pro

If your goal is a big, high-canopy display – especially near roofs, power lines, or over hardscape – It’s worth hiring help. A professional crew can install safely, avoid damaging limbs, and identify hazards (deadwood, weak unions, decay) before they turn into a holiday surprise.

Need help making your holiday display tree-friendly?

If you’d like an arborist to evaluate your tree before decorating—or if you need safe pruning to reduce breakage risk—we’re happy to help! A little prevention now can protect your tree’s health for years to come.

Do Trees Still Need Water in the Winter?

Fri, 12 Dec 2025 18:37:57 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Do Trees Still Need Water in the Winter?

Even though winter in Houston is usually mild compared to other parts of the country, many homeowners wonder: Do my trees still need to be watered this time of year?

The short answer is: YES , just not as often.

Winter is a critical time for root development, and providing the right amount of moisture can make a big difference in your trees’ long-term health, so while you no longer need to water them everyday, that doesn’t mean stop watering them all together.

Dormant Doesn’t Mean Dead

During winter, many trees enter a state of dormancy, which means their visible growth slows down. You might notice fewer leaves, no flowers, or even complete leaf drop (for deciduous trees). But underground, the roots are still active, especially in Houston’s relatively warm soils.

This is when roots strengthen, expand, and prepare to support the tree’s spring flush. If the soil stays too dry, those roots can’t grow properly, and the tree enters spring already stressed.

Houston Winters = Dry Spells

While we don’t usually see deep freezes, Houston does experience long stretches without significant rainfall during the cooler months. Combine that with cold fronts and gusty winds, and trees can dry out, especially young trees, shallow-rooted ornamentals, and those planted within the last 1–3 years.

If a tree goes into winter already dry, the stress is compounded by the lack of regular rain, so watering these susceptible trees more regularly is especially important in the winter.

When (and How) to Water

Here are some quick guidelines:

Water at minimum weekly : Stick your finger into the soil near the tree’s base. If it’s dry several inches down, it’s too dry and you need to water your tree more often
Water deeply : Shallow surface watering does little good. A slow, deep soak around the root zone is best about once a or twice a week depending on recent rainfall should suffice.
Morning is best : Water in the morning or evening when temperatures are above freezing, so the water has a chance to soak into the soil before the sun comes out.
Mulch helps : A good 2–4 inch layer of mulch (not touching the trunk) will help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. (check out this blog to find out if your tree is properly mulched)

Trees That Need Extra Attention

Some trees are more vulnerable to dry winter conditions, especially:

Newly planted trees (need to be watered every day in the first 2 years)
Evergreens (since they continue to lose moisture through their leaves year-round)
Container-grown trees (like potted citrus or ornamentals)

These trees may need more frequent watering, even in December or January.

Final Thoughts

A little attention in the winter can prevent major problems in the spring. Trees that stay hydrated through the cooler months are better equipped to flush out new growth, resist pests, and stay healthy long term.

If you’re not sure whether your trees are getting enough water, or want help with a winter care plan, our team is happy to help. We offer seasonal inspections, moisture evaluations, and custom care plans for Houston’s unique tree species and soil types.

A Tree That Stays: 5 Benefits of Choosing a Living Potted Christmas Tree

Fri, 05 Dec 2025 16:00:46 GMT

Liriope's Muse - A Tree That Stays: 5 Benefits of Choosing a Living Potted Christmas Tree

In this blog we will explore 5 reasons why you should replace the traditional Christmas tree, or that dusty one made of plastic in your attic, for one that can grow with your family, build tradition, and enrich your lives!

Choosing a living potted tree for your Christmas tree is such a simple change, but it can add a whole new layer of heart to the holidays! Instead of a one-season tree that ends up at the curb in January, or a plastic one found in thousands of other living rooms, you get a tree that grows up right alongside your family; coming inside each year to be decorated, admired, and included in your memories.

It’s a more sustainable choice, but it’s also a more sentimental one: the same tree bringing beauty and fresh greenery to your living room in winter, then brightening your porch or patio through spring and summer.

It brings more than sustainability and tradition; it also brings education and responsibility into your home. Kids get to help care for it, learn how living things respond to attention and time, and see that the family Christmas tree isn’t just a decoration, it’s a living part of your home. Over the years, it starts to feel less like “the tree” and more like a quiet member of the family, always there in the background as life moves forward. And for some, the only constant in this crazy ever-changing world. So, if you’re ready to change things up and start a new tradition, this might be the year you bring home a Christmas tree that doesn’t end when the season does.

1. A Tradition That Quite Literally Grows With Your Family

One of the sweetest parts of choosing a living tree is watching it grow as your family’s story unfolds.

Each December, you bring the same tree inside, decorate it with new ornaments, and see how much taller and fuller it’s gotten. You can mark its growth in photos, compare “tree height vs. kid height” every year, and turn it into a tradition your kids will remember.

Instead of a one-and-done tree, you get a living memory keeper.

2. It’s a Greener, More Sustainable Choice

Cut trees can be recycled or mulched, which is great, but a living tree keeps right on doing what trees do best: growing, cooling, cleaning our air, and enriching our lives.

With a potted tree, you’re not just decorating for a season; you’re investing in a long-term plant that can:

Be repotted as it grows larger.
Eventually be planted in your yard when it gets too large for your home (and continually decorated)
Provide shade, beauty, and habitat for birds and essential pollinators.
Clean the air of carbon dioxide and lower the temperature of your yard.

Over time, that “Christmas tree” can become a real anchor in your landscape, a living reminder that holiday choices can be joyful and environmentally thoughtful.

3. Cozy Indoors in Winter, Beautiful Outdoors in Spring and Summer

One of the biggest perks of a potted tree is its flexibility. You’re not limited to just a few weeks in December.

In winter: Bring the tree inside for a couple of weeks, give it a place of honor, add lights and ornaments, and enjoy that fresh greenery and natural texture.
In spring and summer: Move it back outside and let it shine on your porch, patio, or balcony. A potted tree makes a fantastic statement plant, especially in a nice container.

Instead of disappearing after the holidays, your tree becomes part of your home’s decor year-round – dressed up for Christmas, but still a star in every other season.

4. A Living Tree Teaches Kids (and Adults) About Nature

A living Christmas tree is also a built-in science lesson and a quiet little reminder that nature isn’t disposable.

Kids can:

Help water the tree and check the soil
Learn why the roots have to stay healthy
See how new growth appears in spring
Understand that the same tree can serve different purposes through the year

You’re not just saying, “We care about the environment”. You’re showing it in a very visible, hands-on way. That kind of lesson tends to stick.

To learn more about the care of a potted Christmas tree check out this blog: https://www.patchplants.com/pages/plant-care/complete-guide-to-potted-christmas-tree-care/

5. It Feels Special… Because It Is !

There’s something undeniably charming about telling your guests:

“This is our living Christmas tree. We bring it in every year.”

It feels more intentional and personal than grabbing a random tree from a lot, or big box store. Your tree isn’t just “a” tree, it’s your tree! One you’ve chosen, cared for, and brought back year after year.

It becomes part of the family story:

The year you upgraded its pot
The year you had to roll it in on a dolly because it got so big
The year you planted it in the yard and picked a new baby tree to start the tradition over again

It’s a small change in holiday routine that makes the whole season feel a little more meaningful.

Quick Tips for Success With a Living Potted Christmas Tree

A living tree does need more care than a cut one, of course!

Watch the roots: make sure you are monitoring the roots of the tree, as you don’t want them to become too confined. Once you see the roots peeking out of the bottom of the pot, it is time to upgrade the pot. (More on pot upgrades in this article: https://care.plantproper.com/care/when-to-repot-house-plants/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21237496546&gbraid=0AAAAACd_PEGrbAOyqtPkLnxViNiiAmxVN&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9rJBhCYARIsALyPDtvYb6TyX8sISrAQHDloo3HvsPHCGSxg9djLSMrlUaj5Y7eIG06YV2Ua An2JEALw_wcB )
Maintaining proper moisture levels: keeping the soils moist – but not saturated is key! Christmas trees are prone to root rot and health issues in over watered soils, so keep them well watered but not overwatered!
Choose the right spot: Away from heat vents, fireplaces, and blasting space heaters as this can cause needle dropping, needle scorch, and a serious fire hazard! Instead, Christmas trees like the cool so it would be ideal to place it near the front/back door, or by a window but make sure it is not in direct light!
Consider the future size: If you plan to eventually plant it in the yard, make sure the mature size fits your space (and isn’t too close to the house or power lines).

Final thoughts

In time your living Christmas tree can start to feel like part of the family, something you look forward to seeing, tending, decorating, and bringing inside each year. You remember when it was small enough to lift easily, when you had to get a bigger pot, or the year you finally planted it in the yard (when your littles ones flew the nest) and picked out a new baby tree to carry on the tradition with your grandchildren.

If you’re ready to start a new kind of holiday ritual, one that doesn’t end at the curb in January or covered in a layer of dust in the attic, this might be the year to bring home a tree that doesn’t stop at Christmas but keeps growing right alongside your family.

Understanding Black Sooty Mold: What It Is and What It Means for Your Trees

Mon, 01 Dec 2025 14:50:28 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Understanding Black Sooty Mold: What It Is and What It Means for Your Trees

If you’ve ever noticed a dark, powdery coating on the leaves of your trees, shrubs, or even the plants and patio furniture beneath them, you’re likely seeing black sooty mold. Despite its alarming appearance, this isn’t a disease attacking your plant directly, rather it’s a fungus that grows on the sticky residue, called honeydew, left behind by sap-sucking insects. (more on honeydew secretions in this blog )

These insects – such as aphids, scale, mealybugs, whiteflies, or psyllids – feed on plant sap and excrete the excess sugars as honeydew. Once that sugary coating settles on leaves or bark, airborne fungal spores land and start growing on it, forming that dark, soot-like layer. The mold itself doesn’t invade the plant tissue; it’s simply living on top of the honeydew.

Even though the fungus isn’t parasitic, the problem shouldn’t be ignored. A thick layer of sooty mold can block sunlight from reaching leaf surfaces, limiting the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. Over time, that can lead to stunted growth, reduced vigor, and early leaf drop. In addition, the presence of sooty mold is a sure sign of an underlying insect infestation, and those insects do harm plants by feeding on their sap, weakening their structure and inviting further stress or disease. (more on a sap-sucking insect, and it’s effects in this blog )

Sooty mold also affects the aesthetics of the landscape. Homeowners and HOAs often call about trees that appear to be “covered in soot” or “turning black,” especially during warm, humid months. The sticky residue and subsequent black coating can drip onto driveways, cars, patio furniture, or decks, creating a frustrating mess that keeps coming back until the insect source is addressed.

Pictured above, Black Sooty Mold on a Holly

How to Identify Sooty Mold

You’ll typically see a black, powdery or crusty layer on leaves, stems, and sometimes fruit. It can look like ash or charcoal dust. If you run a finger across it, some may wipe off. You might also notice a sticky or glossy film underneath – that’s the honeydew. Check closely for insects on the underside of leaves or along stems. Scale insects often appear as small bumps on twigs, while aphids and mealybugs cluster around new growth.

That said, upon inspection if you happen to find a pest infestation it is crucial that you reach out to a qualified and certified arborist immediately! Sap-sucking insects not only drain the life of the tree and bring sooty mold, but they may also be vectors for more serious pathogens that could surely kill your tree!

Managing and Preventing Sooty Mold

The first and most important step in controlling sooty mold is eliminating the insects that produce the honeydew. Treating the mold itself won’t solve the problem, it will simply return as long as honeydew is present.

For DIY control on smaller plants or shrubs, insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or neem oil can help control populations of aphids, scale, and whiteflies. Always follow product labels and avoid spraying oils or soaps in full sun or during very hot weather, since that can cause leaf burn. But for larger trees or persistent infestations, systemic treatments applied by a licensed arborist are often the most effective solution, since they reach insects that are protected under bark, in dense foliage, or those protected with a waxy coating.

Once the insect problem is under control, you can clean off the mold to restore the plant’s appearance and improve photosynthesis. For small plants, rinse leaves gently with water or wipe them using a soft cloth dipped in a mild soap solution. For larger trees, a light rinse with a garden hose can remove some buildup over time. The key is patience and gentle care! Avoid strong detergents or high-pressure washing, which can damage leaf surfaces.

Long-Term Prevention

To prevent sooty mold from returning, focus on maintaining overall plant health. Proper irrigation, balanced fertilization, and good plant care keep the plants in good health, making them less inviting to sap-sucking pests. Regular monitoring is also essential, as catching early signs of insects can prevent honeydew buildup before it leads to mold. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, as lush new growth often attracts aphids and other pests.

It’s also worth checking for infestations in overstory trees, since honeydew can drip down from infested branches onto healthy plants below. Many homeowners mistakenly treat the understory plants when the true culprit is high up in a nearby canopy.

What Not to Do

Fungicides are not necessary and are ineffective against sooty mold, since the fungus isn’t attacking the plant directly. Using a fungicide would cause more harm than good as it would remove all the beneficial fungi from the trees microbiome, while still leaving the black sooty mold behind. This would leave the tree open to more harmful fungul pathogens, and the destroyed microbiome will stress out the tree leading it to be further susceptible to the pests causing the sooty mold in the first place.

Instead, your goal should be to remove its food source – the honeydew. Once the insects are gone and the honeydew dries up, the mold naturally stops spreading and will eventually flake off or wash away.

Why It Matters

Sooty mold might seem like a cosmetic problem, but it’s a useful diagnostic clue. It tells you that insects are active and that your trees may be under stress. Left unchecked, these pests can cause long-term harm, particularly in young or already stressed plants. By understanding what sooty mold really means, and addressing the root cause, you can restore your trees’ health and appearance while preventing larger issues down the road.

pictured above are scale insects on a Buford Holly, and the Black Sooty they left behind!

Resources I found useful during my research

North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension: Sooty Molds
University of California Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Sooty Mold Pest Notes
Royal Horticultural Society (RHS): Sooty Moulds
University of Hawaii Cooperative Extension: FAQ: Sooty Mold

Arborist Observation: White Flies

Fri, 14 Nov 2025 16:25:59 GMT

Liriope’s Muse - Arborist Observation: White Flies

Our field Arborists have noticed a recent uprise in the White Fly populations, especially on live oak trees. They have observed this in many trees presenting with an overall loss of vigor, having blackened leaves and white cottony patches, and dripping a sticky sap-like substance from the canopy.

White flies are small white to yellow pests (typically 1mm-2mm with a wingspan no larger than 3mm as adults) with piercing sucking mouthparts. Meaning, they feed on the sap of the tree. There are numerous species of white flies and all feed on a different type of vegetation, but the one we are talking about in this blog is the Crown whitefly or Aleuroplatus coronata who feed primarily on live oak trees and chinquapin trees.

Crown whiteflies, like all others, have temperature dependent lifecycles. In cooler temperatures, their lifecycle can last 2 months, but in warmer temperatures their lifecycles only last about 2.5-3 weeks. Meaning in our warm Houston climate, their breeding season is extended and they can produce many more generations each season. The amount of eggs laid is also climate dependent, in cooler temperatures whiteflies lay about 50 eggs in their lifetimes, but in warmer climates whiteflies can produce over 400 eggs in their lifetimes.

However what makes them unique is that despite their aviary name, they are not flies at all! Infact they are closely related to Aphids.

Life Cycle:

The eggs are typically laid on the underside of leaves, are white, and darken just before hatching to a bluish purple color. After the eggs hatch the nymphs crawl around on the leaf until they find the right spot to stop and feed. (this is typically on the upperside of the leaf.) After a while the immature nymph will fuse itself to the leaf and become sessile(immobile).

At this point, whitefly populations are often misdiagnosed by untrained arborists since in this stage they look like scale insects on the leaves. The immature nymphs(pictured below) are flat, ovular and black with a white waxy outline which is similar to the silhouette of a scale insect.

Feeding Damage and Symptoms:

Whiteflies feed on plant phloem by injecting enzymes into the tree that aid in removing the sap, this type of feeding robs the tree of its essential carbohydrate reserves, reducing the vigor of the plant. When their mouthparts reach the phloem, the high-pressure, sugar-rich sap is expelled out from the insect’s anus, enabling them to quickly process the large volumes of sap needed to obtain the scarce nutrients within. Honeydew secretions are high in sugars, so they promote the growth of sooty mold, which significantly reduces plant quality. Honeydew can also be a nuisance as it can make everything under the canopy of the tree sticky, such as your vehicles, side walks, playground, etc.

The most obvious whitefly feeding damage symptoms aside from the sticky residue are stem blanching, chlorotic spots, leaf yellowing and shedding, and at high population levels, plant death. Like all plant sucking insects, white flies have the potential to be vectors of plant pathogens. So, in cases where the white fly may not kill the tree, the disease they brought with may surely do the job.

If you suspect your trees might be suffering from a whitefly infestation, don’t wait for the damage to worsen. Our team of qualified arborists is happy to provide a thorough inspection and develop a treatment plan tailored to your landscape’s needs. Reach out today and let us help restore your trees to full health.

Resources:

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/agriculture/whiteflies/

Native Plants To Be Thankful For This Thanksgiving Season

Mon, 10 Nov 2025 14:24:54 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Native Plants To Be Thankful For This Thanksgiving Season

Thanksgiving isn’t just about the food on our plates or the people at our table, it’s also a perfect time to appreciate the nature around us and the native wildlife it supports! In this blog I’ll delve into a few Houston area native plants and explain why each deserves a place in our gratitude list (and in our yards). Whether you’re a gardener, a nature lover, or simply curious about making your landscape more resilient and wildlife-friendly, consider this a gentle guide to giving thanks beyond the dinner table by noticing, planting, and protecting the plants that sustain our local ecosystem.

Live oak – Quercus virginiana

The live oak, a tree we are all familiar with, it graces the sidewalks of our neighborhoods, cities, and for many it hosts a swing our backyards. The live oak is known for its elegant growth pattern, sturdiness, and resilience to thrive in even the hardest of landscapes.

There are many things to be thankful for about this native oak, but the thing I am most thankful for is its ability to support over 500 species of native caterpillars. As most non-native trees host no more than 5 species. This is important for many bird species, but especially the native Carolina Chickadee, as a pair of Chickadees must feed a single clutch 6,000 – 9,000 caterpillars for their proper development.

Beautyberry – Callicarpa americana

This native shrub is equally ornamentally beautiful and useful, and should you have the opportunity to plant it, it would make a great addition to your landscape! It is a midsized deciduous shrub, that requires little maintenance and its adapted perfectly to thrive in the greater Houston’s climate!

The Beautyberry is not only delicious right off of the shrub, but it is known to be even better in jams and wine. These berries are also a favorite of many native bird species, including mockingbirds, finches, cardinals, as well as many other forms of wildlife. Planting a beautyberry in your yard is sure to increase its biodiversity and provide many wildlife with an essential source of nutrition.

The berries aren’t the only useful part of this shrub, the roots of it have been used in herbal teas and its leaves, when crushed, are excellent at naturally warding off pesky insects such as mosquitoes and horse flies!

All that said, the thing I am most thankful for about beautyberries is how they support many endangered pollinator species! Not only do their blooms attract bees and butterflies, but the beautyberry also serves as a larval host for some butterflies, offering sustenance for their entire life cycle. Their dual role as both a nectar source and a larval host enhances its ecological value and helps to boost native insect populations.

Sideoats Grama – Bouteloua curtipendula

Sideoats Grama is not a widley recognized grass, but it is the state grass of Texas! It is a charming warm-season grass with distinctive oat-like seeds that dangle along one side of the stalk, and blooms with small bright purple and orange flowers in the late summer.

This grass supports native wildlife of all kinds from birds, and rodents, to livestock. It provides shelter, nesting materials, and food for animals at all stages of its lifecycle. Livestock graze on it when is it grassy, pollinators harvest nectar from its dainty blooms, and grain-eating birds and rodents feed on its oat-like seeds in the fall and winter. And that is what makes me most thankful for Sideoats Grama, its ability to provide for such a wide range of native species.

Giant Mississippi Penstemon – Penstemon digitalis

This beautiful nectar-rich native wildflower is native to the Mississippi basin and west into the gulf coastal region of Texas. It can grow to be 5 foot tall and the flowering panicle, graced with many small white flowers, can extend up to one-third of the plants total height providing a “runway” of flowers for many kinds of pollinators to enjoy!

This plant gets the name “Penstemon” from the amount of stamens (5), or male parts found in each flower. These 5 stamen are perfectly placed to spread the flowers pollen on to the bumble bee. Upon entering the flower, the visiting bumblebee will be brushed with pollen on the top of its head, thorax, and even its tongue (proboscis). The flower also strategically places pollen just out of grooming reach on the bumblebee’s back, so when it flies flower to flower collecting its pollen and nectar, it is unknowingly pollenating every flower it comes into contact with.

I am thankful for the Giant Mississippi Penstemon, and all other native wildflowers nourishing and sustaining pollinators and in return are pollinated to produce more flowers!

This Thanksgiving, let’s carry our gratitude outside the dining room and into our own landscapes. Live oaks (Quercus virginiana) that raise the next generation of songbirds, beautyberries (Callicarpa americana) that feed and shelter wildlife, sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) that supports life from summer bloom to winter seed, and the Giant Mississippi penstemon (Penstemon digitalis) that fuels hardworking pollinators, all remind us that thankfulness can be planted. Choosing even one native, replacing a non-native, leaving a little leaf litter for habitat, or planning a small pocket prairie are simple, meaningful actions Houston homeowners can take right now. When we notice and nurture these plants, we’re not just decorating a yard, we’re strengthening an ecosystem.

Here’s to a season of thanks that grows: more nectar, more birdsong, more resilience, and more reasons to be grateful year-round.

Trick or Trim: Storm Pruning

Fri, 31 Oct 2025 01:55:08 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Trick or Trim: Storm Pruning

Trick! The only thing Scarier than ghosts and witches this Halloween is the is the bone-chilling, research denying, and heinous practice of Storm Pruning!

We often come across the horrors caused by storm pruning in the field. Storm pruning is a popular technique used by many arborists; however, it can be detrimental to the structural integrity and health of the tree. When you remove large structural limbs it interferes with the trees’ natural process of balancing called mass damping.

Much like people, trees rely on balance. Disrupt that balance and you weaken the whole organism. Imagine losing a foot or an arm and then trying to walk into a windstorm…you’d need to relearn how to balance, and you’d be far more likely to fall or break another “limb” in the process. That’s the frightening reality for over-pruned trees.

What is Mass Damping?

Mass damping is the harmonic absorption and distribution of force in a tree to reduce the sway of the trunk. (Whether it be from natural forces like earthquakes and weather or unnatural forces like a car crashing into it)

Branches on trees act as coupled masses and in winds develop the mass damping effect which helps distribute, reduce, and dissipate the wind energy. So the mass of each branch directly contributes to the dynamic damping of the tree, removing even one branch can disrupt this rhythm changing the way the tree reacts to forces. This practice of over pruning inflicts stress onto parts of the tree that are unused to the pressure causing structural damage and limb loss. (i.e. otherwise healthy branches breaking out of the tree in seemingly nice weather) And that’s not a treat; it’s a long-term trick.

In nature trees are left alone and are naturally adapted to face storms, however current methods of managing urban trees, such as pruning and assessing mechanical strength, are mainly based on visual assessment or the previous experience of people such as trained arborists. In other words old practices, not backed by science, are passed on from one person in the industry to another. This coupled with strict HOA regulations without the tree’s physiology and health in mind, are the reason for the weakness of urban trees. They are not allowed to grow naturally as they are constantly pruned leading to structural instability and watershoots. So, the storm pruning practice is just adding insult to injury for the already stressed trees by disrupting their mass damping rhythm and further weakening their overall structural stability, essentially cursing the tree for life.

Adaptive growth in trees can be observed in a number of ways, for example in performing a cross section of the tree's limbs you will notice larger rings on the limbs experiencing the greatest force load and thinner on the limbs that are experiencing less. Another sign of this growth is the buttressing or thickening of a trunk or limb at the base to provide localized strength to a location experiencing a high load.

To learn more about Mass Damping, and the scientific equation that proves just how detrimental storm pruning is to a tree’s ability to mass dampen, check out my previous blog ! (It’s the silver bullet for bad pruning myths.)

Are there cases in which storm pruning is acceptable?

Absolutely, there are some instances where pruning before a storm may be necessary for example if your tree has large dead or broken limbs as they can become safety hazards. It is especially risky if they are overhanging your home, driveway, or other property that can pose a direct danger to you. In this case, it would be like shaving your hair off, a big change but not one that affects your balance. The key is selective, science-based cuts, not wholesale limb removal.

Don’t let outdated practices haunt your trees. Skip the storm-pruning scare tactics and choose structurally sound, ANSI A300-informed pruning that preserves mass damping, protects health, and keeps your trees standing strong through Halloween and beyond. Give us a call to get a quote today!

Resources:

https://bsapubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.3732/ajb.93.10.1522

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/fig2_270822624

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Model-of-a-tree-showing-the-primary-oscillating-mass-of-the-trunk-and-the-attached_fig1_270822624

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21642099/

How to Protect Tree Roots During Home Construction

Tue, 21 Oct 2025 16:00:24 GMT

Liriope’s Muse: How to Protect Tree Roots During Home Construction

The roots are arguably one of the most important part of the tree, they are responsible for the absorption of water and nutrients, storage of those nutrients and plant created foods(carbohydrates), anchorage of the tree, the production of essential growth hormones, soil stabilization, and more!

Construction wreaks havoc on trees, from soil compaction to chipped bark and broken branches, and as Erip Putnam BCMA says, “the moment the trees are not considered in the contruction plan, is the moment that tree is dead.” So it is essential to keep them in mind and protected during the whole construction project.

Know Your Tree

Before you can begin protecting your tree you must first understand it. The most important thing to know is where the Critical Root Zone(CRZ) is located. The CRZ is the area of soil around the tree that contains roots essential for the trees survival and health. It is essential to identify where your tree’s CRZ is before beginning construction as it will determine where the Root Protection Zone (RPZ) will be established. Typically without needing to do math, you can assume it’d be located just outside of the drip line* of the tree. However for a more accurate way to find the trees critical root zone radius, you can find the trees diameter at breast height (DBH) and convert every inch of diameter to a foot of radius. For example, a tree with a 17 in DBH trunk tree should have a RPZ with a diameter of at least 17 feet.

*What is the drip line? Imagine the canopy of your tree as an umbrella, you stand under it and remain dry as the rain runs off of the outer edges of the umbrella and drips strait down. The same principle applies to trees, the drip line is the invisible circle on the ground that matches the outermost reach of the tree's branches(just like the outermost edges of an umbrella). Ever notice how when standing under a tree in the rain it tends to be drier and rain less?

->Not sure where your trees drip line is? Test it out! Spray your trees canopy with water (or go outside after a good rain) and observe the outermost area where the water is dripping from the canopy, this is your trees dripline!

Establishing the Root Protection Zone (RPZ)

The RPZ must be established before beginning construction, it should be clearly outlined and everyone should keep out of this area at all times in order to ensure the safety of the tree. (This includes for equipment storage or even picnics in the shade!) At a bare minimum, the RPZ should be no smaller than the CRZ, however ideally it should extend out at least two to three of the trees canopy lengths.

Once, you’ve established how large you need to make your RPZ, you mark it out. You can do this using temporary fencing, stakes and bright rope, or sturdy posts that clearly define the boundary. If you are working on a large construction project, everyone who enters the construction site should be familiar with the Root Protection Zone and know to stay out of it. It is also recommended to erect signage around the RPZ to reinforce and remind the rules! A clearly marked RPZ not only prevents accidental damage but also sets a visible reminder that the tree’s health is part of the construction plan, not an afterthought.

Construction is a slow, silent, and fatal killer of trees, most trees do not present immediately to construction damage, it may take years. Often times, trees may not die solely from construction damage, rather the construction damage weakens the trees defense systems leaving them susceptible to pathogens, disease, and pest infestations that may ultimately kill the tree.

Have you had a recent construction project done in your yard and are concerned about your trees? Give us a call we’d be happy to come out for a free assessment to check out the health of your tree.

What can Eric Putnam BCMA do?

In the event of construction damage we will administer a biostimulant, our homeopathic tree fertilizer. The biostimulant will give your tree a boost in vitality giving it the extra push it needs to heal its outer wounds, reform new root connections and rebuild its root system. It adds organic matter back into the soil, breaks apart compacted soils at a molecular level and rearranges the soil particles creating greater poor space and decompacting the soils naturally without the use of air excavation devices or others that cause more harm than good. (more on this topic in next weeks blog?)

Ganoderma: Your Tree’s Grim Reaper

Fri, 03 Oct 2025 19:36:20 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Ganoderma: Your Tree’s Grim Reaper

As the autumn winds whisper through the branches and the nights grow longer, a silent killer lurks at the base of many trees. Its name? Ganoderma, a fungal disease so destructive it’s often called the Grim Reaper of Trees.

Like a haunting apparition, Ganoderma rarely makes a dramatic entrance. Instead, it creeps in quietly, feeding on the very lifeblood of your tree until there is no chance of survival. By the time you spot its telltale signs, the verdict is grim: your tree’s death is imminent.

The Science Behind the Scare

Ganoderma is a genus of wood-decay fungi. In trees, the culprit is most often Ganoderma lucidum or Ganoderma applanatum, though several species cause the same devastating effect. These fungi invade through wounds at the roots or base of a tree, colonizing the heartwood and sapwood via breaks in bark or root damage from construction, lawnmowers, or foot traffic.

Once inside, Ganoderma causes what arborists call butt rot: a progressive decay of the structural tissues at the base of the trunk. As the fungus feeds, it replaces strong woody fibers with brittle, spongy tissue, leaving the tree hollow and dangerously unstable. The most chilling part? This process happens largely out of sight. By the time visible symptoms appear, the tree has already lost the battle.

A Brief Respite: Compartmentalization

Trees are not entirely defenseless. When faced with internal decay or fungal invasion, trees can invoke a process known as compartmentalization (from the CODIT model: Compartmentalization Of Decay In Trees). This is the tree’s attempt to “wall off” infected or damaged tissue—forming barrier zones of altered chemistry, lignin, or phenolic compounds that slow the advance of decay. nrs.fs.usda.gov+1

In the case of Ganoderma applanatum, for example, controlled laboratory trials showed that the fungus struggled to colonize sapwood that had been compartmentalized—i.e. the reaction zones (walls 1–3) were more resistant to fungal spread. UMass Amherst

However, compartmentalization is not a cure. It is a delay tactic, not a permanent block. Over time, Ganoderma can eventually breach or circumvent those barrier zones, especially if the tree is stressed, weakened, or suffers new wounds, leading to renewed fungal progression. In other words, a tree may temporarily hold the line, but it seldom wins the war.

To learn more about CODIT, check out this blog !

The Unseen Enemy: Long-Term Persistence in Soil

One of the most insidious traits of Ganoderma is its ability to persist in the soil and in residual woody debris for years, even decades, waiting for a susceptible host. In the case of Ganoderma boninense, a serious pathogen in palm plantations, researchers have documented the fungus’ “high persistence and nature of spread in soil,” making disease control extremely challenging. Frontiers

While research specifically quantifying decades-long survival in temperate tree-landscapes is sparser, many wood-decay fungi are known to survive as mycelium, sclerotia, or other dormant structures in soil or buried roots for long periods. In palm management guides, for instance, Ganoderma zonatum is noted to survive in the soil such that replanting another palm into the same site often leads to reinfection. Ask IFAS - Powered by EDIS

Thus, even after a diseased tree is removed, the soil around its former root zone may harbor Ganoderma inoculum for many years, posing risk to new plantings or nearby trees.

Signs of Ganoderma: Death’s Calling Card

Watch for these eerie signs around your trees:

Conks (mushroom-like shelves): The most obvious symptom is the large, flat, varnished-looking fruiting bodies that sprout at the base of infected trees. These are the fungus’s reproductive structures, spreading spores like an epidemic.
Crown decline: Thinning foliage, dieback, and a canopy that looks tired and lifeless, even in good growing conditions.
Root and trunk weakness: The tree may appear fine one day and then collapse without warning, as the internal structure has already been consumed.

If you see a Ganoderma conk, it’s not just a warning sign; it’s the final curtain call for that tree.

No Cure, Only Caution

Unlike other tree diseases that can sometimes be managed with fungicides or pruning, Ganoderma offers no second chances. Once it appears, the tree is beyond saving. Removal is often the only safe option, especially since weakened trees pose a serious hazard to property and people.

The best defense is vigilance:

Avoid trunk and root injuries, as they’re the open door Ganoderma needs.
Plant resistant or non-susceptible species in areas with Ganoderma history.
Have a certified arborist inspect suspicious mushrooms or signs of decline immediately.
When removing infected trees, remove as much root system and stump material as possible, and be cautious about replanting in the same spot—even years later.

So, this October, while you decorate your porch with skeletons and ghosts, remember that one of nature’s true reapers may already be haunting your landscape. Ganoderma doesn’t knock; it announces itself with a grim conk at the base of your tree, a fungal tombstone that reads: the end is near. When Ganoderma strikes, it’s not just disease… it’s destiny.

Why Do Leaves Change Color in the Fall?

Fri, 19 Sep 2025 13:57:18 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Why Do Leaves Change Color in the Fall?

As the seasons shift and the long days of summer give way to crisp fall mornings, one of nature’s most stunning displays begins: the changing of the leaves. Brilliant reds, oranges, and golds transform our landscapes, reminding us that trees are finely tuned to their environment. But what actually causes this transformation? The answer lies in sunlight, gamma rays, and temperature.

The Science Behind Leaf Color

During spring and summer, leaves are green because of chlorophyll, the pigment that captures sunlight to fuel photosynthesis. As fall approaches, days grow shorter and the sun’s angle changes. This shift reduces the amount of light energy reaching the leaves, including high-energy gamma rays and other wavelengths. These energy changes signal to trees that it’s time to prepare for winter dormancy.

At the same time, cooler nighttime temperatures slow down chlorophyll production. With chlorophyll fading, other pigments that were always present in the leaf, carotenoids (yellows and oranges) and anthocyanins (reds and purples), are revealed. The balance of sunlight, temperature drops, and a tree’s genetics all combine to create the fall color palette we love.

Fall Color Changes in Houston

In Houston, some years pass without much of a fall color show at all, and the reason comes down to our climate. Because we often experience warm autumns with very few cool nights, the chemical signal that triggers leaf color change never really kicks in. Without a strong contrast between warm days and crisp nights, chlorophyll lingers longer in the leaves, masking the carotenoids and anthocyanins that would otherwise shine through. On top of that, sudden rainstorms, drought stress, or an early cold snap can cause leaves to simply brown and drop instead of gradually shifting through vivid shades. This is why one year your neighborhood trees may glow with color, and the next year it feels like we skipped fall altogether.

This year, though, I predict that the greater Houston area will experience a nice fall color change as we are already starting to see the early signs of color change and are expected to have a mild, but cooler than last year winter !

The Role of Gamma Rays and Temperature Drops

While gamma rays are part of the high-energy radiation from the sun, their intensity and seasonal fluctuations help regulate plant chemistry. Trees sense changes in the quality and strength of sunlight, which includes this radiation, and adjust their internal cycles accordingly. Think of it as nature’s timer telling the tree when to shift from growth to conservation mode.

Temperature plays an equally critical role. Warm, sunny days paired with cool, crisp nights are the perfect recipe for the brightest fall colors. The daytime warmth allows sugars to continue flowing into the leaves, while the nighttime chill slows their movement out of the leaves, fueling the production of anthocyanins, the pigments responsible for vivid reds and purples.

Why This Matters for Tree Health

The process of shutting down photosynthesis and dropping leaves isn’t just for show, it’s an essential survival strategy. By pulling nutrients back into their roots and branches before leaves fall, trees conserve energy and strengthen themselves for winter. Healthy, well-cared-for trees are better able to complete this seasonal transition smoothly.

For homeowners, this means that proper care throughout the growing season by watering, fertilizing, pruning, and protecting against pests, helps trees put on their best fall color display while ensuring long-term health.

Final Thoughts

Next time you admire the fiery reds of a maple or the golden glow of a hickory, you’ll know it’s more than just a beautiful scene. It’s a complex interplay of sunlight, gamma rays, and temperature shifts; a reminder that trees are living organisms finely tuned to the rhythms of nature.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. , we love helping homeowners understand and care for their trees through every season. If you’d like advice on keeping your trees healthy year-round, our certified arborists are here to help. Schedule

Celebrate Plant a Tree Day With Us!

Fri, 12 Sep 2025 18:56:30 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Celebrate Plant a Tree Day With Us!

This September 28th, communities across the country will celebrate Plant a Tree Day, a national call to action to restore green spaces, strengthen neighborhoods, and give back to the environment. Here in Greater Houston, where our city’s identity is tied so closely to its live oaks, magnolias, and pecans, this is the perfect opportunity to make a lasting impact right in your own yard or in your community.

Why Planting Trees Matters in Houston

Houston is one of the greenest large cities in America, but it’s also one of the fastest-growing. With new construction, extreme heat, hurricanes, and shifting weather patterns, our urban forest faces constant challenges. Planting a single tree may seem small, but multiplied across our neighborhoods, offer many benefits including:

Cooling shade to fight back against rising summer heat.
Improved air quality in a city where industry and highways dominate.
Stormwater protection that helps reduce flooding by absorbing heavy rains.
Beauty and value for homes and communities, some mature trees can increase property values by 10–15%.

Right Now Is The Best Time of Year to Plant in Houston

Fall is the ideal planting season in the Gulf Coast. By putting trees in the ground now, they’ll have cooler weather and months of rainfall to establish strong roots before next year’s summer heat sets in.

Some excellent classic tree choices for Houston landscapes include:

Southern Live Oak – iconic shade tree that thrives in our soils.
Bald Cypress – excellent for wetter areas and flood-prone properties.
Mexican Sycamore – fast-growing, heat-tolerant, and visually striking.

Some excellent fruiting tree choices for Houston landscapes include:

Loquat – delicious fruit, simple and easy to care for.
Plums – specifically of the Methely and Gulf Beauty varieties. They require low chill hours and are tolerant to our hot summers!
Pears – the varieties Pineapple and Floridahome do well in our Houston climate! They produce beautiful blooms and delicious fruit just in time for and early fall pie!

Some excellent ornamental tree choices for Houston landscapes include:

Texas Redbud – a smaller ornamental that blooms beautifully in spring, and has a unique growth pattern
Southern Magnolia – timeless, elegant blooms, and deeply tied to Houston’s identity.
Vitex – a beautiful purple flowering tree with a growth pattern similar to the crape myrtle.

How You Can Celebrate Plant a Tree Day

Plant at Home – Whether it’s a shade tree for your backyard or a fruit tree for your family to enjoy, you’ll be investing in future generations.
Team Up with Your Community – Volunteer with a neighborhood group, HOA, or local park project to help increase our shared canopy.
Dedicate a Tree – Plant one in memory of a loved one or to honor a milestone. Trees stand as living legacies for decades.
Donate ! – Donating to non-profit organizations who plant trees across the country is another great way to celebrate and be a part of International Plant A Tree Day! Some organizations I recommend are : One Tree Planted , International Tree Foundation , Arbor Day Foundation , or The National Forrest Foundation .

Partner with a Professional

Choosing the right tree, planting it in the right location, and ensuring it’s installed properly makes all the difference. At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. , our Board-Certified Master Arborist and team of trained professionals are here to guide you in selecting species best suited for your property and Houston’s unique conditions.

We believe planting trees isn’t just about landscaping, it’s about building a greener, cooler, and healthier future for our city.

This September, let’s all take part. Plant one tree. Inspire your neighbors. Grow a legacy for Houston.

Lace Bug Outbreaks in Greater Houston: What Homeowners Need to Know

Fri, 05 Sep 2025 17:34:08 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Lace Bug Outbreaks in Greater Houston: What Homeowners Need to Know

The Lace Bug ( Corythucha spp.) is increasingly notable in the Greater Houston region, particularly for its impacts on sycamore and Elm trees in residential and urban landscapes. These small pests can become abundant quickly in Houston’s warm climate, making awareness and early detection essential for tree care.

Sycamore lace bug, Corythuca ciliata (Say) (Hemiptera: Tingidae). Photo by Drees.

Hawthorne lace bug, Corythuca cydoniae (Fitch) (Hemiptera: Tingidae). Photo by Drees.

What Is the Lace Bug?

According to Texas A&M’s field guide, the “lace bug,” scientifically known as ( Corythucha spp.) , is a sap sucking insect that feeds on and spends it whole lifecycle on the underside of leaves, specifically of elms, sycamores, ashes, and hickorys.

Identification

Adults
Adults measure approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch in length and have a flattened appearance. Their wings and the area behind the head exhibit a distinctive gauze- or lace-like texture , giving them a whitish or silvery coloration. Hence where they get their name.
Nymphs
Nymphs lack fully developed wings, appearing oval, flattened, and adorned with darkened (black) areas and spines.

Life Cycle & Behavior

Activity Timeline : Adults emerge in the spring as new leaves appear and lay eggs on the undersides of leaves, often among leaf hairs.
Development : After a few days, nymphs hatch and progress through five developmental stages (instars) before reaching adulthood.
Generations per Year : Under favorable conditions, the entire development cycle from egg to adult takes about 30 days , and three to five generations may occur annually.
Overwintering : Adults overwinter in bark crevices or similar sheltered sites.

Damage & Effects on Sycamores and Elms

According to the University of Florida, the sap sucking bugs can cause:

Speckling or stippling on upper leaf surfaces from sap extraction.
White stippling on leaves that can eventually lead to bronzed or chlorotic foliage.
Premature leaf yellowing or drop.
Black spots and leaf necrosis.
Clusters of nymphs and adults, along with cast skins and excrement, are visible on leaf undersides.

Why Houston Needs to Watch Corythucha spp.

Houston’s warm and humid climate accelerates Corythucha spp.'s developmental cycles, increasing the likelihood of rapid population growth and multiple overlapping generations within a single season. Without monitoring or management, sycamore and elm trees can experience chronic stress from defoliation and weakened vitality.

Management Recommendations

Lace bug populations can surge quickly, but management strategies should be approached thoughtfully.

Monitoring and Early Detection

Regularly inspect your sycamore or elm foliage, especially the undersides of leaves, for visible insects, shed skins, and excrement. Early detection allows for more targeted responses.

Cultural Care

Maintain overall tree health through deep watering during droughts, mulching, and avoiding unnecessary stress. Vigorous trees can better tolerate lace bug feeding.

Biological and Natural Controls

Several North American parasites and pathogenic fungi naturally attack these lace bugs. However, research (including studies in Florida, done by UFl) shows these seldom reduce populations enough to prevent significant damage in urban areas.
Beneficial insects like lacewings, assassin bugs, and lady beetles may provide some local suppression.

Mechanical Controls

On small trees or light infestations, lace bugs can be dislodged with a strong spray of water or treated with horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps.

Chemical Controls (With Caution)

A variety of insecticides and application methods (e.g., foliar sprays, soil drenches) can be used, but should be left to the professionals. If applied improperly, large-scale insecticides may create environmental and non-target risks.
In many cases, particularly where infestations occur late in the season pesticide applications may be unnecessary. Although the damage can look severe, late-season defoliation of otherwise healthy sycamores/ashes is typically more aesthetic than life-threatening.

Resources I found helpful in my research:

https://texasinsects.tamu.edu/lace-bug

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN347

The Root of The Name

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 17:29:14 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Root of The Name

The name ‘Liriope’ came from me (the author of this blog) its my beautiful botanical middle name given to me by my father Eric Putnam. It’s a way to root this blog in something personal and meaningful while still remaining perfectly anonymous. Writing under Liriope allows me to share, teach, and reflect openly and authentically while maintaining a level of privacy that feels appropriate.

What makes Liriope ( Liriope muscari ) so beloved is just how easy it is to grow. It asks for very little, gives so much in return, and can thrive across a wide range of temperatures. Here in Texas, I have liriope lining several of my garden beds, and they never fail to impress me. They’ve endured scorching summers with temperatures topping 100 degrees, as well as the recent winter storm that dumped six inches of snow. Despite all that, they bounce back every time. Green, resilient, and blooming with delicate lavender-purple flowers that add charm to even the simplest landscape. To me, they’re living proof of strength in gentleness.

Beyond their beauty, Liriope plants also serve practical purposes. They’re often used as groundcover to help control erosion, create neat borders in commercial and residential landscapes, or add texture to flowerbeds. Their arching leaves and lilac seasonal blooms bring softness and movement to a garden, while their durability makes them a reliable choice for busy homeowners or anyone new to gardening. It’s a plant that thrives quietly and faithfully in the background, much like the way I hope this blog will grow: steady, humble, and meaningful.

As for the name 'Muse' that's rather self explanitory. A muse is a source of inspiration, or wonder and thoughtfulness that peaks curiosity and creativity. Much like this blog!

The name 'Liriope’s Muse' was chosen with the same spirit of thoughtfulness. My father, Eric Putnam, had a hand in shaping not only my name but also this blog. Together, we work side by side crafting these blogs with the goal of educating, enlightening, and entertaining our community. For us, writing about plants and trees isn’t just about horticulture, it’s about sharing stories, challenging the norm, sparking curiosity, and helping people connect more deeply with the living world around them.

So while Liriope may look like just another garden grass to some, for me it carries something much greater: identity, resilience, and inspiration. And that is exactly the heart of Liriope’s Muse.

We Turn Down Work (A Lot). Here’s Why.

Mon, 11 Aug 2025 19:47:37 GMT

Liriope's Muse: We Turn Down Work (A Lot). Here’s Why.

We’re a Houston-area tree service led by a Board-Certified Master Arborist (BCMA). Our promise is simple: we only recommend what’s truly necessary and right for the long-term health and safety of your trees, nothing more.

Our preservation-first philosophy

Trees are living assets. They add shade, beauty, habitat, and real property value; especially here in Greater Houston and Bellaire. Because we take a science-based, holistic approach to tree care, removal is our last resort. If a tree can be preserved safely and responsibly, we’ll show you how.

What “necessary” actually means to us

We recommend work only when it meets one or more of these criteria:

Safety: There’s a credible risk of failure that could harm people or property.
Tree health: Pruning or treatment would directly improve structure, vigor, or disease pressure.
Code or clearance: Pruning for utility, structures, or roadway clearance that won’t compromise health.
Unavoidable removal: Advanced decay, catastrophic defects, or site conflicts that cannot be mitigated.

Everything else like the cosmetic, the “just because,” or the “my neighbor said” doesn’t make the cut.

How we decide (our assessment process)

Every recommendation comes from a structured assessment by an ISA-certified arborist, grounded in ANSI A300 standards and industry best practices:

History & goals: What changed? Storms, construction, irrigation, pests, herbicide usage, or prior pruning?
Site & soil: Drainage, soil compaction, grade changes, irrigation schedules, mulch, and competition.
Tree structure: Root flare, trunk, union strength, canopy balance, foliage appearance, and past cuts.
Targets & risk: What’s beneath or beside the tree? People, roofs, play areas, driveways.
Right-sized plan: If intervention helps, we prescribe the least-invasive option that works. Often recommending a biostimulant, pruning, and cultural fixes before removals.

Ethics case studies

1) “Please thin my oak before hurricane season.”

The request: A homeowner asked for heavy “thinning” cuts to open up an oak’s canopy.
What we found: A healthy tree with strong union structure but some weight-imbalanced limbs over the driveway.
Our recommendation: We refused to thin a tree’s canopy uneccasarily (it causes a higher risk of decay, opens the tree up for pests and pathogens to enter, a large loss of stored reserves, increased sun exposure which may lead to sunscald, and higher future risk of structural failure). Instead, we offered targeted structural reduction pruning and a follow-up inspection schedule.
Why we said no: Thinning would have weakened the tree and increased long-term risks. This practice disrupts the tree’s natural ability to mass dampen, making it especially vulnerable during hurricane-force winds. Without its accustomed load distribution, the tree would face a heightened risk of multiple branch failures, potentially causing serious injury and costly property damage.

Outcome: The oak kept its natural form, wind load was better managed, and the client avoided unnecessary harm and future costs.

2) “Three companies said to remove this pine.”

The request: Total removal of a mature pine near a home.
What we found: No advanced decay or root plate movement; concerns were mostly aesthetic and fear-based.
Our recommendation: Keep the tree. Perform selective pruning to remove deadwood and administer a biostimulant to boost the vitality of the tree and help it thrive.

Why we said no: Removal wasn’t justified by the evidence, the tree presented with no health issues or decline and the tree provided shade and screening the client valued. Our goal is to educate on safety, not fear monger.
Outcome: The client saved a healthy tree and a large, unnecessary expense.

3) “We’re pouring a patio, just cut the roots the tree has plenty.”

The request: Sever roots along a planned patio edge.
What we found: The cut line encroached on critical root zones for two live oaks.
Our recommendation: We declined the root cutting as proposed and designed a tree protection plan instead: we established a critical root protection zone during construction, adjusted the patio footprint, and dug with care and the trees roots in mind. After we administered a biostimulant to encourage new root growth and make up for what was lost.

Why we said no: Aggressive root cuts would likely destabilize the trees and reduce their lifespan.
Outcome: Patio built with modifications; the trees stayed healthy and stable.

When we do recommend removal

Honesty cuts both ways. If a tree is past the point of safe preservation, we’ll say so and explain why. Common reasons:

Advanced decay in the trunk or major roots
Severe and untreatable pest infestation (removed to save surrounding trees)
Severe lean with active soil heaving or root failure signs
Irreparable storm or construction damage
Confirmed, significant structural defects that can’t be mitigated
Invasive species that threaten surrounding canopy (evaluated case-by-case)

When removal is necessary, we still minimize impact and protect nearby trees and soil during the work.

What to expect when you call us

A visit from an ISA-certified arborist or arborist-in-training, led by a Board-Certified Master Arborist.
A clear explanation of findings with photos or notes.
A prioritized plan: what’s essential now, what can wait, and what you don’t need at all.
Work performed to ANSI A300 standards with a preservation mindset.

Our promise

We will only recommend work that is truly necessary and right for the health and safety of your trees. If that means we earn less today, we’re okay with that because doing the right thing for your canopy is what’s most important to us.

Considering tree work?
Schedule a science-based assessment with our arborists. We’ll tell you exactly what your trees need and just as importantly, what they don’t.

The Hidden Dangers of HOA Landscaping Requirements

Fri, 01 Aug 2025 16:58:49 GMT

Liriope's Muse : The Hidden Dangers of HOA Landscaping Requirements

If you live in a neighborhood governed by a Homeowners’ Association (HOA), you’re no stranger to their landscaping rules. These guidelines are usually designed to preserve curb appeal and property values, but when it comes to trees, the results aren’t always so pretty.

While the intentions may be rooted in aesthetics and uniformity, HOA landscaping requirements often conflict with modern arboricultural science and sustainable land management. The result? Rules that may be slowly harming your trees and costing you more in the long run.

Mandated Tree Types Can Be Problematic

One of the most common issues is the use of approved species lists that limit what you can plant.

On paper, these lists sound helpful ensuring the neighborhood looks cohesive. In reality, they often prioritize appearance over climate suitability, biodiversity, mature size, or long-term health. Fast-growing, ornamental trees may look great in a lineup but can be structurally weak, prone to pests, or downright invasive in Texas landscapes.

The problem: Trees poorly suited to local soil, climate, or pest pressures often decline early, leading to constant maintenance, costly removals, and replacements often at the homeowner’s expense.

Spacing Rules That Ignore Root Health

Many HOAs require specific planting distances between trees, driveways, sidewalks, or homes. This may create visual order but often ignores the needs of a tree’s root system and canopy spread.

The result?

Compacted, suffocated roots from a restricted root zone.
Structural conflicts like lifted sidewalks or cracked driveways (check out this blog to learn more about the relationship between trees roots and foundations)
Trees competing for water and nutrients they desperately need

Without adequate space, trees struggle to establish strong root systems, leaving them more vulnerable to stress, pests, and even storm damage.

Pruning Schedules That Harm More Than Help

Some HOAs dictate that trees be trimmed annually or “shaped” to maintain a uniform look, regardless of species or actual condition.

While it might look neat for a season, this kind of cosmetic-driven one-size-fits-all pruning approach can severely compromise tree health. Over-pruning weakens a tree’s natural defenses, topping creates irreversible structural damage, and aggressive thinning leaves trees vulnerable to pests, disease, and sunscald.

Remember : Trees don’t need pruning on a schedule—they need selective pruning at the right time for the right reasons.

The Push to Remove “Imperfect” Trees

Some HOAs push for tree removals over slight leans, seasonal leaf drop, or minor bark imperfections, even when the tree poses no actual safety risk. This approach not only strips away valuable canopy cover and habitat but also forces homeowners to spend money on removals and replacements they don’t need. And once a mature shade tree is gone, you can’t simply plant a new one and expect the same benefits anytime soon—it can take decades for a young tree to provide the same shade, beauty, and environmental value.

How to Protect Your Trees from HOA Overreach

If your HOA’s rules are clashing with best practices for tree care, you have options.

Get a Certified Arborist’s Opinion – A professional assessment can provide the facts you need to defend a tree against unnecessary removal or pruning.
Educate Your HOA Board – Share scientific resources, invite a local arborist to speak, or present the long-term costs of poor tree management.
Propose Policy Updates – Many boards are open to changes when presented with evidence and practical alternatives.
Choose Trees That Work with Both Science and Rules – We can help you select HOA-approved trees that will thrive in your yard and support the local ecosystem.

How Eric Putnam BCMA Can Help

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc . , we regularly advocate on behalf of trees—and the homeowners who care about them. If your HOA is pressuring you to remove a tree you believe is worth saving, we can step in.

Our team can provide a written report and an official letter from a Board Certified Master Arborist supporting the health and value of your tree. In many cases, this is enough to get the HOA to back off and reconsider their position.

You don’t have to face these battles alone. We’ve helped countless homeowners keep their trees and protect their landscape investments.

The Bottom Line

Trees are more than just decoration they’re vital parts of a healthy, thriving neighborhood. They provide shade, habitat, stormwater control, and even boost property value. HOA landscaping rules shouldn’t come at the expense of tree health or environmental sustainability.

With the right knowledge, and the right advocate, you can keep your neighborhood beautiful and protect the living assets that make it truly special.

The Truth About Invasive Tree Species in Texas: Are They Really That Bad?

Mon, 28 Jul 2025 14:32:19 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The Truth About Invasive Tree Species in Texas: Are They Really That Bad?

In the world of Texas tree care, few topics spark more debate than invasive species. Whether it’s the Chinese Tallow ( Triadica sebifera ), Ligustrum (Privet), or Chinaberry, these so-called “bad actors” are often vilified in landscaping guides, community bylaws, and municipal codes. But is the story really so black and white?

Let’s unpack the ecological tradeoffs, real-world impacts, and the nuanced role these trees play in our urban and suburban ecosystems.

What Makes a Tree “Invasive,” Anyway?

An invasive species is generally defined as a non-native plant that spreads rapidly and causes ecological or economic harm. In Texas, Chinese Tallow and Ligustrum are high on the hit list. They reproduce aggressively, outcompete native flora, and are often accused of lowering biodiversity.

However, not all non-native trees are invasive, and not all invasives are automatically destructive in every context. Labeling a species as “invasive” doesn’t always tell the full story.

The Case of the Chinese Tallow

Chinese Tallow is a fast-growing deciduous tree introduced in the 1700s for use in soap-making. Today, it's widespread across Southeast Texas and the Gulf Coast. It’s known for its aggressive colonization of wetlands and prairies, pushing out native species.

But here’s the nuance:

Tallow trees are remarkably tolerant of poor soils, floods, and urban heat—making them one of the few species that thrive in disturbed or neglected urban areas.
They provide fast canopy coverage, which can reduce heat islands and improve air quality.
Wildlife do use them—birds eat the seeds, bees forage their flowers, and their leaves offer shelter where little else grows.
They are also my favorite tree. check out this blog to learn why!

In areas where native reforestation is not feasible due to budget or environmental constraints, Chinese Tallow can fill a functional role, albeit temporarily.

Ligustrum: Problem Plant or Poorly Managed?

Ligustrum species, like glossy and Japanese privet, are popular as hedges and screening trees. Yes, they can escape cultivation and take over understory areas in forests. Yes, they produce prolific berries that birds disperse far and wide.

But here’s the tradeoff:

Ligustrum grows where many other species won’t, especially in compacted soils and heavily shaded urban spaces.
In a well-managed landscape, Ligustrum can be pruned and controlled effectively. It’s not the tree itself but the lack of management that usually leads to problems.
These trees provide important screening, wind buffering, and even some pollen sources in early spring—when native trees may still be dormant.

The Ecological Tradeoff We Don’t Talk About

Invasive species often colonize disturbed environments—places where soil has been compacted, native species have been removed, or human activity has altered the landscape. In many cases, these “invaders” are simply the first responders to ecological damage.

Removing them without replacing them with robust, site-appropriate native plantings often leads to erosion, weed infestations, or heat amplification. In other words, removing an invasive species is not a solution by itself—it’s just a first step.

So... Are They Really That Bad?

It depends. In conservation areas or sensitive prairies, yes—aggressive removals and restoration efforts are warranted. But in suburban neighborhoods, degraded lots, and right-of-ways? The ecological function of an invasive tree might outweigh its downsides, at least in the short term.

Blanket removals can also lead to unintended consequences. For example, some communities have clear-cut entire areas of Tallow without preparing for erosion control or native replanting, resulting in worse outcomes than if the trees had been left alone.

A Smarter Way Forward

Rather than villainizing certain species outright, we need a more nuanced, site-specific approach:

Manage invasives rather than just remove them. Prune and contain where feasible.
Replace with intention. If you’re removing Ligustrum, have native or adaptive species ready to fill the gap.
Evaluate ecological function. Consider the habitat, shade, or erosion control benefits a tree may be providing, even if it’s not native.
Educate instead of eradicate. The real solution is long-term land stewardship and community awareness, not just tree removal.

As a Board-Certified Master Arborist, I’ve seen both sides of the invasive tree debate. While we should be cautious about allowing aggressive species to run unchecked, we also shouldn’t lose sight of the bigger picture. Trees—whether native or not—are part of a complex urban ecology. Understanding their role, rather than rushing to remove them, is the first step toward responsible, sustainable tree care.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we believe in thoughtful, science-backed tree management. If you're unsure whether a tree on your property is invasive, harmful, or just misunderstood—give us a call. We’re here to help you make the best decision for your landscape, your budget, and your trees.

When Insurance Companies Go Too Far: How a Board Certified Master Arborist Can Save Your Tree

Fri, 18 Jul 2025 14:49:19 GMT

Liriope's Muse - When Insurance Companies Go Too Far: How a Board Certified Master Arborist Can Save Your Tree

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we are not only tree experts — we are passionate advocates for responsible tree care and preservation. Led by a Board Certified Master Arborist, our mission is to protect both the health of your trees and your rights as a property owner.

Unfortunately, we've seen a growing trend that threatens both.

More and more, homeowners are being told by their insurance companies that their trees are "dangerous" or “too close to the home” — and are being forced to either remove or severely prune them. These decisions are often made with no on-site assessment and no understanding of tree biology, structural integrity, or the proper standards of care. In some cases, the insurer is simply trying to reduce their risk exposure without any real evaluation of the tree's condition.

And that’s where we step in.

The Problem: Insurance Overreach and Tree Misjudgment

Most insurance underwriters are not trained arborists. They may look at a leaning tree, a dead limb, or a canopy overhanging a roof and label the entire tree a liability. But without knowledge of species growth habits, root structure, decay assessment, and pruning response — they’re making judgment calls on living organisms that require expert evaluation.

Homeowners are left with a terrible choice: lose a healthy tree or risk losing their coverage.

The Solution: Expert Tree Risk Assessments by a Board Certified Master Arborist

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we approach tree safety with both science and ethics. Our assessments are based on ANSI A300 standards for pruning and the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Best Management Practices. When we evaluate a tree, we don’t just look — we investigate:

Species-specific characteristics
Structural integrity and likelihood of failure
Root health and soil conditions
Canopy density, balance, and clearance
Targets below — and actual risks

If a tree does need work, we prune it using industry-approved methods that preserve health and structure, not the excessive cutting or topping often requested by non-professionals. If the tree is truly hazardous, we’ll document why and explain your options.

The Result: Reports That Insurance Companies Respect

We don’t just provide verbal recommendations — we back them up with professional written reports. Our documentation can be submitted directly to your insurance company to prove that your tree does not pose an unreasonable hazard, or that it has been mitigated properly by a certified expert. In many cases, our reports have successfully convinced insurers to drop their removal demands and continue coverage without issue.

Trees Deserve a Fair Trial — Let Us Advocate for Yours

Trees are long-living, valuable assets to your property and your environment. They deserve to be evaluated by someone who understands them — not just someone looking at them through a liability lens.

If your insurance company is threatening your trees, call us first. We’ll provide the expert care, documentation, and advocacy needed to keep your landscape safe and your coverage intact.

What Kind of Tree Are You? Take the Quiz!

Fri, 04 Jul 2025 14:57:36 GMT

Liriope’s Muse : What Kind of Tree Are You? Take the Quiz!

Have you ever wondered what kind of tree matches your personality? Whether you're the strong and steady type or a free-spirited adventurer, there's a tree out there that mirrors your unique traits. Trees, like people, come in all shapes, sizes, and temperaments—and just like people, each one plays a special role in the ecosystem.

So grab a coffee, settle in, and get ready to discover which tree best matches your personality—it’s a lighthearted quiz with surprisingly deep roots.

Quiz: What's Your Tree Type?

Answer the questions below, keep track of your answers, and tally your results at the end!

1. What's your ideal weekend?

A) Hosting a backyard BBQ with friends
B) Hiking a new trail or kayaking
C) Curling up with a good book
D) Volunteering or helping out in your community
E) Exploring a new city or trying something new

2. Pick a motto:

A) “Strong roots, strong life.”
B) “Go where the wind takes you.”
C) “Still waters run deep.”
D) “Stand tall and support others.”
E) “Why not?”

3. Your friends would describe you as:

A) Loyal and dependable
B) Adventurous and spontaneous
C) Thoughtful and calm
D) Protective and nurturing
E) Energetic and quirky

4. Favorite time of year?

A) Summer—sun, shade, and good vibes
B) Spring—everything’s blooming and alive
C) Fall—peaceful, reflective, and cozy
D) Any season—as long as I’m with loved ones
E) All of them—I love change!

5. Your perfect home would be:
A) A cozy house with a big backyard
B) A cabin by a lake or in the mountains
C) A quiet place with lots of character
D) A family-friendly home filled with love
E) A funky loft in the middle of everything

6. Which activity sounds the most fun?
A) Gardening or working on a DIY project
B) Rock climbing, paddle boarding, or zip-lining
C) Painting, journaling, or meditating
D) Hosting a potluck or organizing a fundraiser
E) Going to a concert or trying out a food truck park

7. What do you value most in life?
A) Stability
B) Freedom
C) Inner peace
D) Connection
E) Discovery

8. Which pet would you choose?
A) A loyal dog
B) An adventurous cat
C) A calm fish or turtle
D) A cuddly bunny or rescue animal
E) Something exotic—maybe a parrot or a lizard

9. How do you handle stress?
A) Stick to your routine and push through
B) Head outside for fresh air and movement
C) Retreat into your own quiet space
D) Talk it out with someone you trust
E) Try something new to shake it off

10. Your ideal vacation is:
A) A beach rental with friends and family
B) A backpacking trip through a national park
C) A relaxing stay at a peaceful retreat
D) A group trip to a meaningful destination
E) A spontaneous road trip with no set plan

Tally Your Results:

Mostly A's: You're a Live Oak!
You’re strong, dependable, and deeply rooted in your values. People naturally gather around you because you provide stability and comfort. Like the Live Oak, you’re built to last—and your shade stretches far.

Mostly B's: You're a Bald Cypress!
Adventurous and adaptable, you’re just as comfortable in the water as you are on dry land. Like the Bald Cypress, you thrive in unique environments and know how to bend with the flow without breaking.

Mostly C's: You're a Magnolia!
Elegant, introspective, and a little mysterious, you carry a quiet strength. People are drawn to your beauty and grace—but they often underestimate the toughness under your delicate blooms.

Mostly D's: You're a Red Maple!
You’re community-minded and always looking out for others. Like the Red Maple, you’re vibrant, reliable, and full of heart. When things change, you’re the one people look to for support.

Mostly E's: You’re a Sycamore!
A little wild and full of personality, you don’t shy away from standing out. Like the patchy bark of a Sycamore, your uniqueness is your superpower—and you’re never afraid to reinvent yourself.

Final Thoughts

No matter what kind of tree you are, remember: every tree has value. Just like trees support ecosystems, you support your family, friends, and community in your own special way.

Want to learn more about the trees around you—or how to care for the one in your yard that most reminds you of you? Reach out to us at Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. We’re passionate about trees… and the people who love them.

The Hidden Dangers of Installing Root Barriers: A Holistic Arborist’s Perspective

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 14:53:09 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The Hidden Dangers of Installing Root Barriers: A Holistic Arborist’s Perspective

In the world of tree care, root barriers are often touted as a quick solution to prevent tree roots from invading sidewalks, foundations, or utility lines. But while they may offer short-term relief, root barriers can have serious long-term consequences for tree health and structural integrity. At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we take a holistic view—one that prioritizes the life of the tree and the ecosystem it supports.

This image shows how the tree's crutial roots have been completely severed during the instilation on this root barrier.

Trees Don’t Attack—They Adapt

A core principle of holistic arboriculture is understanding why roots grow where they grow. Trees do not aggressively seek out or “attack” structures. They grow where soil, moisture, and space allow. If a sidewalk, foundation, or utility line is well-designed and structurally sound, tree roots will naturally grow around or away from it.

However, if a structure is poorly built, leaking, or cracked—essentially offering an environment conducive to root growth—a tree may opportunistically take advantage of it. In these cases, it’s the structure’s failure, not the tree’s intent, that leads to conflict.

This is why focusing on soil health, root system function, and infrastructure design is more effective than installing artificial barriers.

What Are Root Barriers?

Root barriers are physical or chemical barriers placed in the soil to direct or block the growth of tree roots. They are typically installed vertically between the root zone and a structure or landscape feature, such as a building foundation, driveway, or underground pipe.

While these barriers are intended to "protect" infrastructure, they often do so at the tree’s expense.

The Problem with Root Barriers

1. Disrupted Root Architecture

Trees rely on a wide-reaching network of roots for stability, water uptake, and nutrient absorption. When a barrier is installed, it disrupts this natural system—sometimes severing major roots during trenching and preventing the tree from accessing resources beyond the barrier.

Over time, the tree compensates by growing a constricted or imbalanced root system, which can:

Lead to mechanical instability (higher risk of falling in storms)
Cause canopy dieback due to water and nutrient shortages
Promote girdling roots that strangle the tree from the inside out

2. Root Deflection Causes Structural Issues

Root barriers don't always stop roots—they redirect them. This often causes roots to grow downward or along the barrier’s surface, which can concentrate stress in a small area or cause roots to circle back toward the trunk.

These redirected roots can:

Damage the tree’s own root collar or lower trunk
Create a false sense of protection while still compromising nearby hardscapes
Lead to structural failure when redirected roots can no longer support the canopy

It’s also important to understand that healthy tree roots do not naturally grow toward solid structures without reason. When a foundation or sidewalk begins to crack or leak moisture, it creates a favorable microenvironment. In these cases, the tree is not causing the failure—it is responding to an opportunity. Blaming the tree ignores the larger issue: poor construction or aging infrastructure.

3. Trenching = Severe Root Damage

Installing a root barrier requires trenching—often 24–36 inches deep and several feet long. In established trees, this means cutting through structural roots, w hich can:

Remove 20% or more of a tree’s root system
Cause immediate stress and decline
Expose the tree to pathogens and decay organisms
Potentially violate ANSI A300 standards for root pruning and protection

For many species, especially live oaks and pecans common to Texas landscapes, losing even a portion of the root system can be devastating.

4. Impaired Soil Hydrology and Microbial Balance

Barriers—especially plastic ones—change the way water moves through the soil. They can cause water pooling or drying, leading to anaerobic conditions or drought stress on one side of the root zone.

Additionally, barriers can disrupt beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizal networks, which are essential for nutrient exchange and disease resistance. In holistic tree care, this underground ecosystem is just as important as what we see above ground.

Alternatives to Root Barriers

As a holistic tree care company, we advocate for preventative planning and adaptive solutions that protect both the tree and the structure:

Plant the right tree in the right place. Choose species that are appropriate for the space, and avoid large-growing species near foundations or hardscapes.
Use root-friendly engineering solutions. Reinforced sidewalks, bridging root zones, or flexible paving systems can preserve roots while protecting infrastructure.
Implement soil-based strategies. Air spading, vertical mulching, and soil decompaction can promote root growth away from sensitive areas without physical obstruction.
Consult a certified arborist. Before installing any barrier or beginning construction near trees, a root zone assessment can identify critical roots and help design around them .

Root barriers may seem like a practical solution, but they often trade short-term convenience for long-term damage. Trees are dynamic, living organisms with complex root systems that don't respond well to physical confinement or sudden injury.

And most importantly: trees don’t cause damage to structures that are well built.

Instead of working against trees, we can design and manage our spaces to work with them.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we always begin with the question: What does the tree need to thrive?

If you’re dealing with root-related issues or planning construction near trees, we can help guide you toward solutions that protect both your property and the long-term health of your trees.

Need a root zone evaluation or construction consultation?
Contact us today to schedule an appointment with a Board-Certified Master Arborist. Your trees deserve more than a barrier—they deserve a plan.

The Legacy of the Ninth Oak: Humble, Texas’ Famous Water Tree

Fri, 20 Jun 2025 14:55:55 GMT

Liriope’s Muse - The Legacy of the Ninth Oak: Humble, Texas’ Famous Water Tree

In 1983, a man bought eight heritage live oak trees on sale at a Sears in Humble, Texas. A sears employee loaded his truck and it wasn’t until he got home that he realized there was an additional, ninth, tree put there by mistake. So, he took the biggest of the eight oaks and planted them along the front of his RV park. The ninth tree, was the smallest and puny of the trees, and rather than returning it, he decided to plant it by the deck in his back yard.

That " bonus " tree would go on to become a local legend.

While the original eight trees settled into their planned spots, growing normally, the ninth tree flourished. Growing quicker, taller, and healthier then its peers. It even produced a full crop of acorns in its very first year — an unusually precocious act for a live oak. Inspired, the owner collected the crop of acorns and planted 68 of them in pots. The following year, he planted two of each of the seedlings per every one of the 34 lots on the mobile home park. Decades later, those offspring are remarkably larger than the original eight trees.

But the real story — and the reason this tree has become a landmark — begins when the tree was only about six inches in diameter.

The owner, who had built out a patio and BBQ area nearby, wanted to add a convenient water source. Having some knowledge of tree biology and how trees compartmentalize wounds, he decided to do something no arborist would ever recommend — drill a hole through the trunk and install a water faucet.

The owner drilled a hole straight through the trunk of the tree, then used a chainsaw on the back side to cut a deep vertical channel from the hole down to the ground, wide enough to fit copper tubing. He ran the tubing up through the channel and installed a working water faucet on the opposite side of the trunk. He connected it directly to the City of Humble’s water supply and waited to see what would happen.

At worst, he figured the tree might die. But to his amazement — and eventual fame — it didn’t. The tree survived. Then it grew. Then it thrived .

Over the years, the oak continued to grow around the pipe. The faucet remained fully functional, and the tree never showed signs of decline. Instead, it flourished into a massive, healthy live oak with a secret: water flows directly from its trunk.

Today, this tree is a local celebrity.

People from all over the area visit just to see it. Some bring friends or family who don’t believe it’s real until they see water pour from the bark-mounted spigot. Many insist on tasting the water — just to say they drank from the tree.

It’s earned some fitting nicknames along the way. Locals joke that it’s a “genetically engineered water oak” or a “desert water oak” — a tongue-in-cheek nod to how absurdly unique it is. And on one unforgettable April Fools' Day, the mayor of Humble even came out to the tree, took a drink, and declared with a grin:
“ It’s as good as the City of Humble’s water. ”
Of course, the punchline? It is the City of Humble’s water.

Recently, this marvel came under threat when it was struck by lightning — a sobering reminder that even the most remarkable trees are still vulnerable. The owner called our team at Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., and we conducted a full arborist assessment.

Fortunately, the tree was still viable. We administered a custom biostimulant treatment to aid in recovery — and in perfect poetic fashion, we used water from the tree’s own faucet to mix the treatment. Today, the tree’s health is in great recovery!

This tree isn’t just wood and leaves — it’s living history, a community joke, and a feat of biology and imagination.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we don’t just care for trees — we preserve stories. If you have a tree that matters, whether it's famous or not, our certified arborists are here to help it thrive for generations to come.

World Bee Day: What Trees Have to Do with Saving the Bees

Tue, 20 May 2025 12:21:15 GMT

Liriope's Muse - World Bee Day: What Trees Have to Do with Saving the Bees

Today is World Bee Day , and while most people think of flowers when they think of bees, we want to take a moment to talk about how important trees are in keeping our pollinators healthy and thriving.

Today, on World Bee Day , we’re taking a moment to spotlight these tiny pollinators that make a massive impact. Bees are responsible for pollinating more than 75% of the world’s flo wering plants and about 35% of the crops we eat. Without them, our ecosystems—and our food supply—would look very different.

So, where do trees fit into this?

Trees and bees are natural partners. Here’s how:

Trees Provide Food : Many native trees—like redbuds, willows, maples, hollies, and magnolias—offer nectar and pollen that bees depend on, especially in early spring when other food sources are scarce.

Trees Offer Habitat : Hollow trunks, crevices, and leaf litter create homes for solitary bees and other pollinators. Deadwood, often removed unnecessarily, can be a haven for native bee species.

Trees Support Native Plant Communities : Healthy tree canopies create microclimates that protect undergrowth and support a diverse, pollinator-friendly understory.

How We’re Helping (and How You Can Too)

As arborists, we protect the structures that support pollinator life. That means:

Avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides harmful to bees
Promoting native tree species and pollinator-friendly planting
Pruning with purpose—not removing critical habitat without cause
Educating our clients on how their landscape decisions impact pollinator health

Want to help support pollinators on your property? Consider planting native flowering trees, limiting chemical use, and allowing leaf litter to remain in low-maintenance zones.

Need Guidance? We’ve Got You Covered.

If you’re not sure which trees to plant to support bees—or how your existing trees fit into the local ecosystem— we’re here to help! Reach out for a consultation and we’ll assess your landscape with pollinators in mind.

Let’s grow a better environment—for our trees, for the bees, and for the next generation

Black Turpentine Beetles Are Killing Pines in Greater Houston—Here’s What You Need to Know

Fri, 09 May 2025 14:13:29 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Black Turpentine Beetles Are Killing Pines in Greater Houston—Here’s What You Need to Know

We’ve seen a noticeable uptick in pine tree deaths across the Greater Houston area, and one culprit is showing up again and again: the Black Turpentine Beetle.

This beetle u sed to be considered more of an opportunist—something that would show up after a tree was already stressed or injured. Maybe a branch was improperly pruned, or the roots had been compacted during construction. But that’s not what we’re seeing anymore. These beetles are now going after healthy, mature pine trees with no clear signs of stress, and they’re doing real damage fast.

What to Watch For

Black Turpentine Beetles tend to attack the bottom 6 feet of a pine tree, especially around the root collar. You might notice:

Large, amber-colored pitch tubes (they look like blobs of sap)
Resin bleeding from small holes in the lower trunk
Sawdust or frass around the base of the tree
Yellowing needles or unexpected dieback in the canopy

If you spot any of these symptoms, especially more than one, it’s time to act quickly. Once these beetles get inside, they carve tunnels through the inner bark that can shut down the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients.

Why Are They Becoming More Aggressive?

There’s no single answer, but here’s what we suspect:

Extended warm weather has allowed beetle populations to explode
Urban development and construction stress are quietly weakening trees even when they still look healthy
Thick mulch, poor drainage, and compacted soil are making trees more vulnerable than they appear
In some areas, beetle activity is so high they’re simply overwhelming trees faster than they can respond

We used to see this pest as a red flag that a tree was already in decline. But now we’re seeing strong, established pines come under attack—and in many cases, die within a season.

What Can You Do?

The most important thing is early detection. If we can catch an infestation early enough, there’s a chance we can stop it. Here's what we recommend:

Have your trees inspected—especially mature pines, and especially if you're near recent construction or heavy soil disturbance
Avoid pruning during peak beetle activity, especially in spring and summer
Protect the root zone—avoid piling mulch too high around the trunk, and don’t park or drive over the roots
Consider preventative treatments if you have high-value trees or beetle activity nearby

If a tree is already infested beyond saving, it should be removed and destroyed to keep the beetles from spreading to others.

We’re not sounding the alarm to scare anyone, but we are urging homeowners, HOAs, and property managers in the Greater Houston area to take this seriously. These beetles aren’t just a problem for struggling trees anymore. They’re becoming a real threat to healthy landscapes—and if you wait until symptoms are obvious, it may already be too late.

If you’re seeing pitch tubes or think something’s off with your pines, give us a call. We can evaluate the tree and give you honest, straightforward guidance on whether it can be treated or needs to be removed.

Don’t ignore the warning signs—healthy trees are at risk now, and a proactive approach could save them.

Understanding Lethal Bronzing: What You Need To Know To Protect Your Palms

Fri, 02 May 2025 17:54:18 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Understanding Lethal Bronzing: What You Need To Know To Protect Your Palms

Palm trees are a signature of Southern landscapes—graceful, towering, and resilient. But in recent years, more and more of these iconic trees have started to fail, seemingly overnight. One of the biggest culprits? A fast-spreading disease known as lethal bronzing.

As a Board-Certified Master Arborist, I’ve been seeing a growing number of cases, and it’s clear that early awareness is key to protecting our palms. Here’s what every homeowner and landscaper should know.

What Is Lethal Bronzing?

Lethal bronzing, formerly known as Texas Phoenix Palm Decline (TPPD), is a fatal disease affecting various palm species. Caused by a phytoplasma—a type of bacteria lacking a cell wall—this disease disrupts the palm's nutrient transport system, leading to decline and death.

Symptoms to Watch For:

Premature fruit drop : Affected palms often shed their fruit earlier than normal.
Bronzing of fronds : Leaves turn a reddish-brown or bronze color, starting from the lower canopy and moving upward.
Spear leaf collapse : The newest emerging leaf, known as the spear leaf, browns and collapses—a definitive sign of lethal bronzing.

Once the spear leaf dies, the palm cannot recover. Early detection is vital for management and prevention of spread to nearby palms.

Meet the Culprit: The American Palm Cixiid

The primary vector responsible for spreading lethal bronzing is the American palm cixiid (Haplaxius crudus), a small planthopper insect. While harmless on its own, this insect becomes dangerous when it carries the lethal bronzing phytoplasma.

Life Cycle and Habitat:

Nymph Stage : Cixiid nymphs develop in the thatch layer of grasses, feeding on over 40 grass species. In urban landscapes, they show a preference for St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum).
Adult Stage : After maturing, adults migrate to palm canopies, feeding exclusively on palm sap. Mating occurs in the palm canopy, and females return to grasses to lay eggs, completing the cycle. The presence of certain grass types, particularly St. Augustinegrass, can support higher populations of cixiid nymphs, increasing the risk of lethal bronzing spread.

Managing and Preventing Lethal Bronzing

While there is no cure for lethal bronzing, a proactive management strategy can greatly reduce the risk to your palms and help contain the spread of the disease.

1. Monitor Regularly

Inspect your palms frequently—especially in spring—for early signs of decline and insect activity. Focus on the spear leaf and upper canopy, and watch for premature fruit drop, frond bronzing, and wilting. Early detection gives you the best chance to protect surrounding trees.

2. Act Quickly

If a palm shows clear symptoms—particularly spear leaf collapse—remove and properly dispose of it immediately. A delayed response allows the phytoplasma more time to spread to nearby healthy trees.

3. Control Insect Vectors

When adult cixiids are observed mating in the palm canopy—typically in spring—it's important to act quickly. After mating, females descend to lay their eggs in the turf, which hatch in approximately 10–20 days.

Dimethoate can be applied as a systemic insecticide to palms to help control adult cixiids feeding in the canopy.
Diazinon can be applied to turfgrass (particularly St. Augustinegrass) to target cixiid eggs and nymphs in the thatch layer.

4. Manage Grass Proactively

Since nymphs prefer the thatch of certain grasses like St. Augustinegrass, maintaining a well-trimmed, dethatched lawn and possibly replacing susceptible grass types with less favorable species can reduce breeding habitat for cixiids.

Lethal bronzing is a serious threat, but with the right information and timely action, it doesn’t have to devastate your landscape. Stay observant, manage your turf, and don’t ignore the early signs.

If you're seeing unusual symptoms or suspect cixiid activity in your palms, reach out to a certified arborist right away. It’s always better to catch this disease early—before it sprea ds.

Why Tree Health Inspections Matter (And How Often to Do Them)

Fri, 25 Apr 2025 14:50:58 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Why Tree Health Inspections Matter (And How Often to Do Them)

Trees are one of the greatest assets in any landscape. They offer beauty, shade, cleaner air, and increase property value. But like any living thing, trees can suffer from health problems that aren’t always visible right away. If left unchecked, minor issues can turn into major risks—leading to costly damage, safety hazards, or even the loss of the tree itself. That’s why regular tree health inspections are so important—and why having them done by a certified arborist is one of the smartest ways to protect your investment.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we often meet property owners who first call us after they notice something wrong—a thinning canopy, a crack in the trunk, or dead limbs dropping unexpectedly. By the time these symptoms show up, there’s often been internal damage happening for years. Regular inspections allow us to catch these issues early, when treatments are simpler, more affordable, and far more effective at preserving the life of the tree.

What Happens During a Tree Health Inspection?

A professional tree health inspection is a detailed, ground-based evaluation of a tree’s condition. We look closely at several areas:

Canopy health : Are there thinning spots, dead branches, unusual leaf color, or premature leaf drop?
Trunk and bark : We look for cracks, cavities, fungal growth, bleeding, or insect damage.
Root and soil conditions : Exposed roots are checked for girdling or decay, and the surrounding soil is evaluated for compaction, poor drainage, or other stress factors.
Structural stability : We assess branch attachments, stem structure, and potential weaknesses that could pose a risk.
Pests and diseases : Early signs of insects, fungi, or bacterial infections are carefully documented.

After the inspection, we provide a clear, detailed report along with practical recommendations. If treatments are needed, they are based on sound arboricultural practices—not guesswork.

Why Routine Tree Inspections Are So Important

Early Detection Saves Trees and Money
Most serious tree problems don’t happen overnight. They start small, hidden inside the trunk, the roots, or the canopy. By the time a tree starts shedding limbs or leaning dangerously, it’s often too late for easy solutions. Regular inspections catch problems early, saving you from expensive removals, property damage, or emergency tree services.

Protecting Safety and Property
Trees with hidden structural problems can become dangerous, especially during storms or high winds. Weak limbs, internal decay, or root instability can cause serious injuries or damage to homes and vehicles. Annual inspections are one of the best ways to identify risks and take action before accidents happen.

Extending Tree Lifespan
Healthy trees can live for decades, sometimes centuries, with the right care. Inspections help identify environmental stresses like poor soil conditions, root damage, or improper past pruning that might otherwise shorten a tree’s life. Small adjustments today can add years—or even decades—to a tree’s future.

Preserving Beauty and Environmental Value
Well-maintained trees enhance the beauty of a property and support the local ecosystem. Inspections help maintain healthy, full canopies and strong structures that resist storms, disease, and pest infestations.

How Often Should Trees Be Inspected?

The right inspection schedule depends on the specific trees and the conditions they’re growing in, but a good general rule is:

Once a year for most mature trees, especially those near buildings, driveways, or pedestrian areas.
Twice a year for trees with known health issues, past damage, or pests.
After major weather events like hurricanes, ice storms, or high winds.
Before and after construction if any work is planned near trees, to monitor root zone impacts.
At planting and during the first few years after installation, when trees are most vulnerable to transplant stress.

Inspection plans should be based on the tree species, the landscape, and your goals—always taking a proactive approach rather than waiting for problems to arise.

Why It Matters Who Does the Inspection

Tree health inspections aren’t just about taking a quick glance at a tree. They require a trained eye, deep knowledge of tree biology, and experience diagnosing subtle problems. A Board-Certified Master Arborist can spot early warning signs that others miss, recommend appropriate treatments, and provide advice that aligns with the latest industry standards. Working with a certified professional ensures your trees are cared for with precision, not guesswork.

Protect Your Trees and Your Investment

Trees are living investments that take decades to mature, and once they’re lost, they can’t simply be replaced. Routine tree health inspections are a simple, affordable way to protect the trees you love—and to safeguard your property’s beauty, safety, and value.

If you haven’t had your trees inspected recently, or if you’re concerned about the health of a particular tree, now is the time to act. Contact Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. to schedule your professional tree health inspection. We’re committed to helping you protect and enjoy your trees for years to come.

New Service Spotlight: Tree Cataloging, Surveying, and Inspection by Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 14:10:49 GMT

Liriope's Muse New Service Spotlight: Tree Cataloging, Surveying, and Inspection by Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we’re proud to introduce our newest suite of services: Tree Cataloging, Surveying, and Inspection —designed to support residential, commercial, and municipal clients in making informed, confident decisions about their trees. Backed by ISA-certified expertise and guided by ANSI A300 standards and best management practices, these services provide a deeper understanding of the trees on your property and how to care for them effectively.

What Is Tree Cataloging?

Tree cataloging involves the creation of a comprehensive, organized inventory of all trees on your property. Each tree is documented individually with essential data including:

Species and botanical name
Size (DBH, height, and canopy spread)
Location (with GIS mapping options)
General health and structural condition
Maintenance history and future care recommendations

This living database is an invaluable resource for homeowners, HOA managers, land developers, and municipalities. It supports ongoing tree care, simplifies budgeting for maintenance, and allows for strategic planning that prioritizes tree health and public safety.

What Does Tree Surveying Include?

Whether you're managing a large property, preparing for new development, or seeking compliance with municipal tree ordinances, our tree surveys offer valuable insight. We assess site conditions, identify significant or protected specimens, and deliver key data for:

Pre- and post-construction planning
Tree risk and hazard assessments
Municipal permitting and ordinance compliance
Tree preservation, relocation, or mitigation plans

All surveys are conducted with a strong focus on protecting existing canopy while supporting responsible land use. You’ll receive detailed documentation that supports your project planning and ensures trees are integrated responsibly into your landscape or development goals.

Why Tree Inspections Matter

Regular inspections are vital to catch potential issues early and avoid costly damage. Our Board-Certified Master Arborist performs thorough evaluations to monitor tree structure, identify pests or diseases, and assess environmental stressors. Each inspection includes an evaluation of:

Structural stability and potential risk factors
Signs of pest infestation, fungal pathogens, or disease
Soil quality, compaction, and root zone health
Pruning recommendations and potential hazards

Following the inspection, clients receive a detailed report that includes photographic documentation, clear observations, and tailored next steps for management or remediation.

Why Choose Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.?

Choosing a Board-Certified Master Arborist means choosing scientific accuracy, ethical standards, and a genuine commitment to tree care excellence. Our cataloging, surveying, and inspection services are rooted in deep arboricultural knowledge, and we take pride in providing more than just data—we deliver peace of mind. Whether you are a homeowner wanting to protect your trees or a planner managing large-scale urban canopy assets, we offer tools and insight to help you care for your trees with confidence.

Ready to Get Started?

If you’re ready to take a proactive step in managing your trees, we’re here to help. Contact us today to schedule a consultation with a certified arborist and learn how our Tree Cataloging, Surveying, and Inspection Services can support the health and safety of your landscape.

What Is Plant Health Care (PHC) and Why Does It Matter?

Fri, 11 Apr 2025 16:58:42 GMT

Liriope's Muse: What Is Plant Health Care (PHC) and Why Does It Matter?

Plant Health Care, commonly abbreviated as PHC, is a proactive, holistic approach to maintaining the health, safety, and vitality of trees and shrubs. Rather than reacting to problems after they appear, PHC focuses on prevention, early detection, and long-term solutions. As a Board-Certified Master Arborist, I’ve found that educating property owners about PHC is one of the most important steps in creating healthy landscapes and resilient trees.

PHC isn’t just about treating pests or diseases. It’s about looking at the entire system a tree is living in—soil conditions, site history, climate compatibility, moisture levels, pruning practices, and even nearby construction activity. Trees in urban and suburban environments face a host of challenges that they wouldn’t encounter in a natural forest. Compact soils, limited root space, mechanical damage, poor planting practices, and climate mismatches all take a toll over time. PHC addresses these issues systematically.

One of the foundations of PHC is regular inspection. A trained arborist evaluates the overall condition of your trees, looking for early signs of stress or decline that might go unnoticed by the untrained eye. This could include subtle changes in leaf color or size, small cracks in the bark, premature leaf drop, or unusual patterns in branch growth. By identifying issues early—before they become serious—we can recommend precise, evidence-based interventions that are both effective and minimally disruptive.

Another key element of PHC is soil management. Most tree health issues begin below ground. Trees depend on healthy soil to access nutrients, water, and oxygen, but in urban settings, soil is often compacted, depleted, or chemically imbalanced. Through soil testing, aeration, organic amendments, and root zone protection, we can dramatically improve the growing conditions and root performance for a struggling tree. Healthy soil biology also helps trees resist pests and diseases naturally.

PHC also involves selective, science-based treatments when necessary. If a tree is suffering from a pest or pathogen, we choose the least toxic, most targeted control methods available—often incorporating biological controls or cultural practices before turning to chemical solutions. The goal is always to manage the problem in a way that supports the tree’s long-term health and the surrounding ecosystem.

One of the most overlooked aspects of PHC is proper species selection and site planning. Many problems we see in trees today stem from species planted in the wrong location—trees that are not well-adapted to the local climate, soil, or exposure. PHC begins before a tree is even planted, by matching the right species to the right place. Once established, trees benefit from thoughtful structural pruning, protection during construction, and seasonal care that takes into account their natural growth cycles.

In short, Plant Health Care is about stewardship. It’s about treating your trees as living, dynamic parts of your property that deserve attention beyond occasional trimming or emergency removal. Trees are long-term investments. With proper care, they can outlive us—providing shade, habitat, stormwater control, and beauty for generations.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., PHC is the core of what we do. We don’t believe in one-size-fits-all solutions, because every tree, site, and client has unique needs. Through detailed assessments, tailored recommendations, and ongoing monitoring, we help our clients build healthier, safer, and more sustainable landscapes.

If you’re concerned about the health of your trees—or simply want to be proactive—consider scheduling a Plant Health Care consultation. Together, we can give your trees the care they need to thrive in a challenging environment.

Is Your Tree Infested with Borers? Here's How to Tell

Fri, 04 Apr 2025 16:46:04 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Is Your Tree Infested with Borers? Here's How to Tell

As a Board-Certified Master Arborist, one of the biggest threats I see in urban and residential trees is borer infestation. These invasive insects tunnel into trees, feeding on their internal tissues, bringing pathogens, and often causing irreversible damage. The sooner they're detected, the better chance you have of saving your tree—and protecting the rest of your landscape!

Here are several signs your tree may be suffering from a borer infestation:

1. Sawdust at the Base of the Tree : This is often one of the first visible signs. As borers tunnel into the wood, they push out fine sawdust-like material called frass, which collects around the base or in bark crevices.

2. Toothpicking : Some species of borers leave behind small, pencil-lead sized toothpicks of frass protruding from the bark. This striking symptom is a clear indicator of active borer activity.

3. Holes in the Trunk or Branches : Small, round or oval exit holes can be seen on the bark where adult borers have emerged. These holes vary in size depending on the insect species but are a telltale sign of internal damage.

4. Dripping Sap or Wet Spots : Trees may ooze sap from entry points, which sometimes mixes with frass or sawdust. This can result in discolored streaks or wet-looking areas on the bark.

5. Thinning Canopy and Loss in Vigor : If a tree is losing leaves prematurely, showing sparse foliage, or experiencing dieback in the crown, it may be due to the disruption of nutrient flow caused by borer damage.

6. Cracked or Peeling Bark : As the tree tries to compartmentalize the damage, bark may begin to crack or fall away, revealing internal galleries chewed by the larvae.

7. Presence of Woodpeckers : An increase in woodpecker activity may indicate a hidden borer problem, as these birds feed on the larvae inside the tree.

If you recognize one or more of these symptoms in your tree, it’s crucial to act quickly. Borer infestations can kill trees in a matter of seasons and spread to nearby healthy trees, turning one problem into many.

Contact a Certified Arborist immediately for an accurate diagnosis and treatment plan. With timely intervention, it's often possible to stop the spread and preserve your trees for years to come.

Protect your landscape and don’t wait until it’s too late!! Contact Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. today!

The Difference Between Urban Grown And Forest Grown Trees

Fri, 21 Mar 2025 16:55:08 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Difference Between Urban Grown And Forest Grown Trees

If you’ve ever taken a walk through a forest and then strolled through your neighborhood, you’ve probably noticed that trees in these two settings can look very different. While both are essential to our environment, urban trees and forest trees face vastly different conditions—and as a result, they grow, age, and die in very different ways.

1. Growing Conditions

Forest Trees:
In forests, trees grow in large groups, forming natural ecosystems. The soil is rich in organic matter from decaying leaves and branches. There’s minimal soil compaction, and tree roots have plenty of space to grow outward and interact with other roots.

Urban Trees:
Urban environments are often harsh. Trees are frequently planted in compacted soils surrounded by pavement or buildings. They may have limited root space, poor drainage, and reduced access to water and nutrients. Urban soils often lack organic matter, making it harder for trees to thrive without intervention.

2. Competition vs. Isolation

Forest Trees:
Forest trees compete with each other for light, water, and nutrients. This competition encourages them to grow tall and straight as they reach for sunlight. Their root systems are interconnected, and they often benefit from shared mycorrhizal networks.

Urban Trees:
Most urban trees grow in relative isolation, especially street trees or those in suburban yards. Without competition, they tend to have broader crowns and heavier limbs. However, the lack of community support from neighboring trees makes them more vulnerable to environmental stress and storm damage.

3. Human Impact

Forest Trees:
While forests are affected by logging, climate change, and invasive species, they aren’t typically exposed to lawnmowers, salt spray, air pollution, or compacted sidewalks.

Urban Trees:
Urban trees are constantly exposed to human activities—construction, pruning for utility clearance, vehicle emissions, and even vandalism. Improper planting and maintenance are also common issues that can shorten a tree’s life span significantly.

4. Maintenance Needs

Forest Trees:
In natural settings, trees don’t need much help from humans. Dead branches fall and decay naturally, and the forest floor recycles nutrients efficiently.

Urban Trees:
Urban trees depend on people for their health and longevity. They require regular pruning, soil care, pest and disease management, and protection from physical damage. Without proper maintenance, urban trees can become hazardous or decline prematurely.

5. Life Span and Mortality

Forest Trees:
Many forest trees can live for hundreds of years if left undisturbed. Their natural environment supports long-term health and regeneration.

Urban Trees:
Unfortunately, the average life expectancy of an urban tree is significantly shorter—often just 20-30 years for street trees. This isn’t because they’re inherently weaker, but because of the cumulative stressors they face.

Why This Matters

If you have trees on your property or manage trees in a community setting, it’s important to recognize that urban trees require different care than forest trees. A tree that might thrive in the wild could struggle in a city or suburb without the right support.

That’s where we come in! At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we’re passionate about helping urban trees reach their full potential. From proper planting and pruning to soil health and pest management, we offer science-based solutions to help your trees not just survive—but thrive.

Need Help with Your Urban Trees?
Reach out to schedule a consultation or learn more about our plant healthcare services. Your trees are part of your community—let’s give them the care they deserve.

The Resurrection Fern: Nature’s Master of Survival

Fri, 14 Mar 2025 15:29:51 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The Resurrection Fern: Nature’s Master of Survival

As an arborist and plant health care specialist, I have spent years studying the resilience of trees and the many organisms that live among them. Few plants, however, have fascinated me as much as the resurrection fern ( Pleopeltis polypodioides ). This unassuming epiphytic fern possesses one of nature’s most remarkable survival mechanisms—the ability to "die" and then come back to life.

For those of us who work closely with trees and ecosystems, resurrection fern serves as a striking example of the resilience that exists in even the most delicate-looking flora. But what makes this fern so special? And why is it an essential part of the ecosystems in which it thrives?

A True Survivor: How Resurrection Fern Withstands Desiccation

Most ferns require a consistently moist environment to survive, but the resurrection fern is in a league of its own. During dry periods, its fronds shrivel, curl up, and appear completely lifeless—turning brown and brittle, as if it had succumbed to drought. However, this is merely a state of dormancy, a sophisticated adaptation known as desiccation tolerance.

This fern can lose up to 97% of its water content without suffering permanent damage. To put that in perspective, most plants would die if they lost more than 10% of their water. Yet, when rain or humidity returns, the fern rehydrates rapidly, unfurling its lush green fronds within hours, seemingly resurrected from the dead.

The Science Behind the Magic

The secret to this plant’s incredible ability lies in its biochemical adaptations. Researchers have discovered that resurrection ferns produce protective proteins and sugars, such as trehalose, which stabilize their cell structures when dehydrated. These molecules prevent critical cellular damage, allowing the fern to spring back to life when water becomes available again.

Additionally, recent studies suggest that resurrection ferns may use protective antioxidants to minimize oxidative stress while in their desiccated state. This means that even after prolonged dehydration, their tissues remain intact, avoiding the decay or cellular breakdown that would normally occur in other plants.

Where to Find Resurrection Fern

Resurrection fern is an epiphytic plant, meaning it does not root in soil but instead grows on the surfaces of trees, rocks, and even fences. It thrives in the southeastern United States, particularly in oak-hickory forests, cypress swamps, and along riverbanks, where moisture is often abundant but periodic droughts still occur.

If you take a closer look at the limbs of a large live oak (Quercus virginiana), you’re likely to find resurrection ferns clinging to the bark. These ferns are not parasitic; they do not take nutrients from the trees they grow on. Instead, they gather water and nutrients from the air and rain, making them harmless cohabitants of their host trees.

Ecological Significance

While resurrection fern might seem like an ornamental curiosity, it plays an important role in its ecosystem:

Microhabitat Provider – The fern creates a moist, shaded environment that supports a variety of small insects, fungi, and even tiny invertebrates.
Air Quality Indicator – Because epiphytes absorb water and nutrients directly from the air, the presence (or absence) of healthy resurrection fern populations can be an indicator of air pollution levels.
Soil and Moisture Regulation – In dense fern communities, these plants can help slow down water evaporation, slightly modifying the local microclimate.

A Lesson in Resilience

For arborists, horticulturists, and anyone who appreciates the wonders of plant adaptation, resurrection fern is a reminder of nature’s incredible ability to endure and recover. Whether you encounter it during a rainstorm in its verdant glory or in the heat of summer as a crumpled brown mass, this plant is a symbol of patience and resilience.

In a time when climate change and urban development threaten natural ecosystems, perhaps we can take a lesson from the resurrection fern—learning to adapt, conserve, and persist, even in the harshest conditions.

So, next time you're walking through an old oak grove or exploring a humid southern forest, take a moment to look for resurrection fern. And if you’re lucky enough to witness one “coming back to life” after a rain, consider yourself a witness to one of nature’s small but extraordinary miracles.

The Mighty Live Oak: A Symbol of Strength and Longevity

Fri, 07 Mar 2025 17:45:30 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The Mighty Live Oak: A Symbol of Strength and Longevity

Few trees capture the essence of resilience and beauty quite like the live oak (Quercus virginiana). A staple of the southeastern United States, this iconic tree is known for its sprawling branches, evergreen foliage, and incredible lifespan. Whether shading historic plantations, lining city streets, or thriving in coastal landscapes, the live oak is a true testament to nature’s endurance.

An Ancient Survivor

Live oaks are among the oldest trees in North America, with their lineage tracing back to the end of the last Ice Age over 10,000 years ago. As glaciers receded, live oaks were among the first trees to reclaim the land, adapting to a rapidly changing climate and proving their remarkable resilience. Today, their ability to thrive in diverse conditions—coastal shores, sandy soils, and hurricane-prone regions—is a testament to their ancient origins.

Why Is It Called a “ Live ” Oak?

Unlike many deciduous oaks that shed their leaves in fall, the live oak remains green year-round, dropping its leaves only in early spring as new growth emerges. This continuous foliage cycle is what gives it the name “live” oak, as it appears to stay alive even in winter.

A Botanical Mystery: White Oak or Red Oak?

The classification of the live oak has long been a topic of debate among botanists. Traditionally, oaks are divided into two main groups:

White oaks (Quercus species) have rounded leaf lobes, produce acorns that germinate immediately, and contain naturally occurring tyloses in their wood, which help block water flow and make the wood more decay-resistant.
Red oaks (Quercus species) have pointed leaf lobes, produce acorns that take two years to mature, and lack tyloses, making their wood more porous and prone to water absorption.

The live oak, however, does not fit neatly into either category. While it is commonly placed in the white oak group due to its rounded acorns and rapid germination, its wood structure is unique—it lacks tyloses, a defining characteristic of true white oaks. This absence of tyloses gives live oak wood exceptional density and strength, but unlike white oak, it is not naturally water-resistant. Some researchers also point to its leaf shape and growth characteristics as showing affinities with red oaks. With traits from both groups, the live oak remains a fascinating outlier in the oak family, adding to its mystique and scientific .intrigue

A Tree Built to Last

Live oaks are among the longest-living trees in North America, with some specimens estimated to be over 1,000 years old. Their broad, gnarled branches can stretch twice as wide as the tree is tall, creating a dramatic and picturesque canopy. These trees are also exceptionally strong, with dense, rot-resistant wood that was once used in shipbuilding—including for the legendary USS Constitution, nicknamed "Old Ironsides" because cannonballs bounced off its live oak hull.

Decurrent Growth Pattern: A Unique Canopy Structure

Live oaks exhibit a decurrent growth pattern, meaning they develop a broad, spreading canopy rather than a central dominant trunk. This growth habit allows them to create massive, sprawling limbs that form picturesque, twisting structures. The weight of these limbs is supported by secondary trunks and aerial roots, contributing to their remarkable longevity and resistance to wind damage.

Wildlife and Ecosystem Benefits

Live oaks provide a vital habitat for countless species. Their acorns are a crucial food source for birds, deer, and small mammals, while their dense branches offer shelter for nesting birds and pollinators. Spanish moss and resurrection ferns frequently drape from their limbs, creating a mini ecosystem of their own.

Resilient Against Storms

A major reason why live oaks are favored in coastal and hurricane-prone regions is their exceptional wind resistance. Their deep, widespread root systems anchor them firmly into the ground, making them less likely to topple in strong winds. Unlike more brittle trees, live oaks bend rather than break, helping them survive even the most extreme weather conditions.

A Living Legacy

Live oaks are more than just trees—they are historical landmarks, cultural symbols, and environmental powerhouses. Whether standing alone in a field or forming majestic avenues in old Southern landscapes, they represent strength, endurance, and the passage of time. If you’re lucky enough to have a live oak on your property, cherish it—it may outlive us all!

Would you like to learn more about caring for your live oak? Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. specializes in eco-friendly tree care to ensure these magnificent trees continue to thrive for generations to come. Contact us today!

What is an Eco Arborist?

Fri, 28 Feb 2025 20:27:13 GMT

Liriope's Muse: What is an Eco Arborist?

An Eco Arborist is a tree care professional who prioritizes sustainability and ecological balance in their work. While traditional arborists focus on tree health and safety, eco arborists go a step further by using environmentally friendly practices that benefit both trees and the surrounding ecosystem.

How Does an Eco Arborist Differ from a typical Arborist?

Organic Care – Eco arborists avoid synthetic chemicals, opting for natural pest and disease management solutions.
Soil Health First – Instead of relying on fertilizers alone, they improve soil structure using biochar, mycorrhizal fungi, and regenerative practices.
Wildlife Consideration – They recognize trees as habitats, preserving deadwood when safe and considering the needs of birds, pollinators, and fungi.
Sustainable Tree Removal – When removal is necessary, they repurpose wood for lumber, mulch, or habitat structures instead of waste.
Low-Impact Techniques – They minimize heavy machinery use to protect roots, prevent soil compaction, and reduce environmental disturbance.

Eco arborists view trees as part of a larger ecosystem, ensuring their work supports long-term environmental health. If you want tree care that aligns with sustainability, hiring an eco arborist is the way to go!

Boost Your Trees Naturally: The Benefits of Our Bi-Annual Biostimulant Treatment

Fri, 21 Feb 2025 17:29:41 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Boost Your Trees Naturally: The Benefits of Our Bi-Annual Biostimulant Treatment

Your trees and landscape deserve the best care possible, and that starts with the right nutrition. At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we offer an all-natural, organic biostimulant treatment designed to enhance soil health, strengthen tree roots, and promote lush, vibrant growth. Best of all, it’s made from just three simple ingredients: molasses, humic acid, and water. That’s it!

What’s in Our Biostimulant?

Molasses – This natural sugar source feeds beneficial microbes in the soil, increasing microbial activity and improving nutrient availability. Healthy microbes help break down organic matter and release essential nutrients for your trees.

Humic Acid – Extracted from decomposed plant material, humic acid improves soil structure, enhances root absorption, and helps retain moisture. It also binds nutrients in the soil, making them more accessible to your trees and plants.

Water – The carrier that ensures an even distribution of the biostimulant throughout your landscape, allowing your trees and soil to fully absorb its benefits.

Why Use a Biostimulant?

Unlike synthetic fertilizers, biostimulants don’t force growth—they support natural processes. Our bi-annual biostimulant treatment:

Increases root strength and resilience
Improves soil health and microbial diversity
Enhances nutrient uptake and retention
Helps trees withstand drought and environmental stress
Encourages long-term tree vitality without synthetic chemicals

By using our biostimulant treatment twice a year, you’re ensuring that your trees and yardscape remain healthy, strong, and naturally beautiful year-round!

Schedule Your Bi-Annual Biostimulant Treatment Today!

Falling for Fall in Advance: Why Valentine’s Day Is the Perfect Time to Plan for Autumn Color

ericputnambcma@gmail.com (Eric Putnam) — Wed, 12 Feb 2025 14:49:38 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Falling for Fall in Advance: Why Valentine’s Day Is the Perfect Time to Plan for Autumn Color

While most people associate Valentine’s Day with roses and chocolates, it’s also the perfect time to think ahead to one of the most breathtaking seasons—fall! If you want your Houston landscape to glow with vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows come autumn, now is the time to start planning and planting.

Why Plan for Fall Color Now?

Houston’s mild winters make February an excellent time to plant trees. Cooler temperatures allow new trees to establish strong root systems before the heat of summer kicks in. By getting a head start, you’ll ensure your trees are healthy and well-established when fall rolls around, ready to put on a dazzling display.

Best Trees for Fall Color in Houston

If you’re dreaming of a vibrant autumn landscape, consider planting these top trees for fall color in the Houston area:

1. Japanese Maple ( Acer palmatum )

Fall Color: Fiery red, orange, and yellow

Why Plant It? Japanese Maples are prized for their delicate leaves and brilliant fall colors. While they prefer partial shade in Houston’s hot climate, they thrive in well-draining soil and add an elegant touch to any yard.

2. Red Maple ( Acer rubrum )

Fall Color: Bright red to orange
Why Plant It? True to its name, the Red Maple delivers some of the most striking autumn hues. It’s a fast-growing, hardy tree that adapts well to Houston’s climate, though it prefers slightly acidic soil for the best color display.

3. Chinese Tallow ( Triadica sebifera )

Fall Color: Golden yellow, deep orange, and red
Why Plant It? One of the most reliable trees for vibrant fall foliage in Houston, Chinese Tallow trees are fast-growing and thrive in a variety of soil conditions. In fact, they are Eric’s favorite tree! to learn mor about the tallow tree, check out this blog.

4. Bald Cypress ( Taxodium distichum )

Fall Color: Rusty orange to copper
Why Plant It? A deciduous conifer, the Bald Cypress turns a stunning copper-orange in fall before shedding its soft, feathery needles. It’s highly adaptable and does well in both wet and dry conditions, making it a great choice for Houston landscapes. To learn more about why the bald cypress may be thew tree for you check out this blog.

5. Sweetgum ( Liquidambar styraciflua )

Fall Color: Purple, red, orange, and yellow
Why Plant It? Sweetgum trees offer one of the longest-lasting fall color displays in Houston. Their star-shaped leaves turn a mix of warm hues, creating a spectacular autumn scene. Be mindful of their spiky seed pods, which can be a bit messy.

Tips for Successful Planting

Choose the Right Spot: Make sure your tree has enough space to grow and thrive. Consider sunlight exposure and soil drainage.
Mulch & Water Well: A layer of mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and provide a protective layer to the trees roots. Water newly planted trees regularly and deeply, especially during dry spells.
Be Patient: Some trees take a few years to fully develop their fall colors, but the wait is well worth it!

Why do trees change color in the fall?

As autumn arrives, trees and shrubs undergo a colorful transformation influenced by three key factors: leaf pigments, night length, and weather. The increasing length of night is the primary trigger for these changes, initiating biochemical processes that reveal nature’s vibrant fall palette.

Leaves contain three main pigments that contribute to autumn colors. Carotenoids produce yellow, orange, and brown hues, found in foods like carrots and bananas. Anthocyanins , which develop in response to bright light and excess sugars, create reds and purples seen in apples and cranberries. Chlorophyll , responsible for green color and essential for photosynthesis, breaks down as nights lengthen, allowing other pigments to emerge. This process results in the brilliant seasonal display we enjoy each fall.

Why do my trees change color some seasons and not others?

The intensity and timing of fall colors in your trees can vary from year to year due to several environmental factors:

Weather Conditions – Temperature, sunlight, and moisture levels all play a role. Warm, sunny days and cool (but not freezing) nights enhance red and purple hues by increasing anthocyanin production. A warm, wet fall or an early freeze can dull colors.
Drought and Soil Moisture – A dry summer can stress trees, causing leaves to drop early before colors fully develop. On the other hand, adequate moisture throughout the growing season can lead to more vibrant displays.
Tree Health and Stress – Trees that are stressed from disease, pests, or poor soil conditions may not develop strong fall colors and could drop their leaves prematurely.
Length of Night – This is the most consistent factor. As nights get longer, chlorophyll (which makes leaves green) breaks down, revealing underlying pigments. However, if other conditions aren’t ideal, colors may not be as striking.

If your trees have inconsistent fall colors, it’s likely due to variations in weather, soil conditions, or stress factors from year to year.

Final Thoughts

While February might be all about hearts and romance, it’s also the ideal time to invest in the beauty of your fall landscape. Plant now, and by the time autumn arrives, your yard will be bursting with breathtaking color.

If you need help selecting the right trees or ensuring they get off to a healthy start, reach out to Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. We’d love to help you plan your perfect fall landscape!

Post-Winter Freeze Tree Care Tips From A Master Arborist

ericputnambcma@gmail.com (Eric Putnam) — Fri, 24 Jan 2025 18:04:01 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Post-Winter Freeze Tree Care Tips From A Master Arborist

Winter can be harsh on your trees. Freezing temperatures, snow, and ice can stress even the hardiest species, leaving them vulnerable to damage as the seasons change. As a board-certified master arborist, I’ve seen how proper post-winter care can make all the difference in a tree’s health and longevity. Here are some essential tips to help your trees recover and thrive after a winter freeze:

1. Inspect for Damage

Start with a close inspection of your trees. Look for:

Broken, cracked, or hanging branches that may have been damaged by heavy snow or ice.
Bark splits or frost cracks, which can occur due to extreme temperature fluctuations.
Signs of root damage, such as heaving soil or leaning trees, especially if the ground experienced repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

Address any significant damage promptly, as weakened branches or roots can pose safety risks.

2. Prune Damaged Branches

Pruning is crucial to remove broken, damaged, or dead limbs to reduce further stress on the tree and promote healthy growth. But be cautious not to over-prune your tree as this can further weaken it, leave all of the shaping and large-scale pruning to certified arborists.

3. Check Soil and Roots

Ground freezes andsnow can compact soil, reducing aeration and water absorption. Gently aerate the soil around your trees if needed and check for any signs of exposed roots or frost heave. Apply a fresh layer of mulch to protect and insulate the root zone, read this blog to learn how to properly apply mulch to your tree.

4. Watering Matters

Don’t assume your trees are hydrated just because of winter snow. Once the ground thaws, check moisture levels and water deeply if the soil is dry. Trees can become stressed if they’re not adequately hydrated heading into the growing season.

5. Assess For Disease And Pests

winter can weaken trees, making them more vulnerable to diseases and pests. Look for early warning signs such as discolored foliage, cankers, or boring holes. Addressing these issues early can save your tree from long-term damage

6. Be Patient

Some trees take time to show signs of stress or recovery after a harsh winter. Keep an eye on them as they come out of dormancy. If you’re unsure about their condition, it is always a good idea to consult with a certified arborist for a professional assessment.

Why Professional Care Matters

Caring for trees after a winter freeze requires expertise and attention to detail. A professional arborist can help you:

Identify hidden damage that could lead to long-term issues.
Prune and treat trees safely and effectively.
Develop a tailored care plan to promote your trees’ health and resilience.

Your trees are valuable assets to your property and the environment. By taking the time to care for them after winter’s challenges, you’re investing in their future and ensuring they remain strong and beautiful for years to come.

If you have questions or need assistance with post-winter tree care, reach out to Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.

We’re here to help your trees thrive every season. ��

Is Lichen Harmful to Trees? Separating Myth from Reality

ericputnambcma@gmail.com (Eric Putnam) — Fri, 10 Jan 2025 14:20:16 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Is Lichen Harmful to Trees? Separating Myth from Reality

Lichen is a fascinating organism that often raises concerns among tree owners. Many homeowners notice lichen growing on their trees and wonder if it poses a threat to the health of their landscape. As a certified arborist, I aim to clarify the facts and dispel common misconceptions about lichen and its relationship with trees.

What is Lichen?

Lichen is not a single organism but rather a symbiotic partnership between fungi and algae or cyanobacteria. The fungal component provides structure and protection, while the algae or cyanobacteria contribute photosynthesis, producing energy. This unique partnership allows lichen to thrive in various environments, including tree bark.

Is Lichen Harmful to Trees?

The short answer is no, lichen itself is not chemically harmful to trees. Lichen is non-parasitic, meaning it does not feed on the tree or draw nutrients from it. Lichen does not penetrate the tree's vascular system, making it biologically harmless.Instead, it uses the tree's bark as a surface to grow on, similar to how moss or ivy might attach to a structure. That said, if the lichen growth is heavy and begins to cover the trees bark completely it can hinder the tree's ability to photosynthesize, leading to an overall reduction of vigor. Especially if the tree is a deciduos tree.

However, heavy lichen growth can sometimes be a sign of underlying tree stress or declining health. Trees with sparse canopies or poor vigor often have more exposed bark, creating ideal conditions for lichen colonization. Therefore, while lichen is not the cause of tree decline, its presence can sometimes indicate an existing issue.

Managing Lichen on Trees

Since lichen does not often harm trees, removal is generally unnecessary. However, if its presence is aesthetically undesirable or linked with a tree's poor health, consider the following strategies:

Improve Tree Health: Promote overall tree health through proper watering, mulching, and fertilization.
Tree Inspection: Have a certified arborist inspect the tree to identify potential health issues contributing to lichen proliferation.
Have your tree treated: Connect with an arborist who offers the proper treatment for mitigating and eradicating the lichen plaguing your tree.

Conclusion

Lichen is a natural, beneficial organism that is rarely a cause for concern in tree care. Its presence often signals a healthy environment rather than a threat. However, it can occasionally indicate underlying tree health issues. If you have concerns about your trees, consulting with a certified arborist can provide clarity and ensure the longevity and health of your landscape.

For professional tree care services and expert advice, contact us today. We are committed to educating the community and promoting healthy, thriving trees.

The 2025 Tree of the Year: Northern Red Oak

ericputnambcma@gmail.com (Eric Putnam) — Fri, 03 Jan 2025 14:30:01 GMT

Liriope's Muse - The 2025 Tree of the Year: Northern Red Oak

The northern red oak (Quercus rubra) though not found in our area, has been named the 2025 Tree of the Year, is a testament to resilience, beauty, and ecological significance. This majestic species, native to North America, is widely celebrated for its striking appearance, environmental benefits, and historical importance.

A Towering Icon of Strength

Northern red oaks are among the most recognizable trees in eastern and central North America. These fast growing specimens can reach heights of 60 to 75 feet, with some exceptional individuals surpassing 100 feet and a possible lifespan of 400 years. Their straight trunks, often free of lower branches, make them a favorite in both natural landscapes and urban settings.

The bark of a northern red oak is a distinguishing feature, with its dark, furrowed texture punctuated by lighter, shiny ridges. The leaves, with their pointed lobes and deep sinuses, turn brilliant shades of red and russet in autumn, creating a spectacular seasonal display.

Ecological Powerhouse

The northern red oak plays a pivotal role in its ecosystem. Its acorns, rich in nutrients, are a vital food source for a variety of wildlife, including deer, squirrels, turkeys, and blue jays. These acorns also serve as an important seed stock for forest regeneration.

Moreover, the dense canopy of the red oak provides shade and shelter, fostering biodiversity and aiding in climate regulation by sequestering carbon. Its deep root system stabilizes soil and reduces erosion, making it a valuable asset in conservation efforts.

Historical and Cultural Significance

The northern red oak has long been cherished by Indigenous peoples and settlers alike. Indigenous communities used its bark for medicinal purposes and its wood for crafting tools and structures. Early European settlers recognized its durability and strength, utilizing it in shipbuilding, furniture, and flooring.

In contemporary times, the northern red oak remains a staple in woodworking, prized for its reddish-brown heartwood and straight grain. Its longevity and adaptability have also cemented its place as a beloved shade tree in parks, campuses, and residential areas.

A Tree for the Future

The northern red oak stands as a symbol of nature’s resilience and beauty. Its contributions to ecosystems, culture, and the environment make it an exemplary choice for the 2025 Tree of the Year. By planting and preserving northern red oaks, we honor their legacy while promoting biodiversity and environmental health. Let’s celebrate this remarkable tree and ensure its place in our landscapes for generations to come.

Holiday Decorating: Dos and Don’ts for Outdoor Trees

ericputnambcma@gmail.com (Eric Putnam) — Fri, 13 Dec 2024 18:05:58 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Holiday Decorating: Dos and Don’ts for Outdoor Trees

Decorating outdoor trees is a wonderful way to spread holiday cheer and bring festive charm to your yard. However, it’s essential to ensure that your decorations do not harm the very trees you’re adorning. At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we’ve seen the unintended damage that can occur from improper decorating practices. Follow these dos and don’ts to keep your trees healthy and happy throughout the holiday season.

DO : Choose Tree-Friendly Lights

Use LED Lights: LED lights are cooler and more energy-efficient than traditional incandescent bulbs. They reduce the risk of overheating, which can damage tree bark and foliage.
Opt for Lightweight Strands: Lightweight lights and decorations are less likely to weigh down branches or cause stress to the tree’s structure.
Weatherproof Your Setup: Use outdoor-rated lights and extension cords to prevent electrical hazards or damage to your tree during wet or snowy weather.

DON’T : Wrap Lights Too Tightly

Tightly wound lights can constrict branches, potentially cutting into bark and causing long-term damage.
Avoid pulling lights taut; instead, loosely drape them to allow for tree movement and growth.

DO : Secure Decorations Gently

Use soft ties, such as twine or fabric strips, to secure ornaments and lights. Avoid metal wires or nails, which can puncture bark and introduce infections.
Hang decorations on sturdy branches to minimize the risk of breakage.

DON’T : Use Harmful Fasteners

Never staple or nail lights directly to a tree’s trunk or branches. These methods can create wounds that expose the tree to pests and diseases.
Avoid using adhesives, as they can strip bark when removed and leave behind harmful residues.

DO : Check for Tree Health Before Decorating

Inspect your tree for weak or damaged branches before decorating. Heavy decorations on compromised limbs can lead to breakage.
If you’re unsure about a tree’s stability, consult a certified arborist for an assessment.

DON’T : Overload the Tree

Overloading branches with too many lights or ornaments can cause unnecessary strain, leading to breakage or stress.
Spread decorations evenly to distribute weight and avoid clustering heavy items on a single branch.

DO : Remove Decorations Promptly

Take down lights and ornaments shortly after the holiday season ends. Leaving decorations on trees for extended periods can interfere with growth and lead to bark damage.
Check for tangled branches when removing lights to avoid accidental damage.

DON’T : Forget About Wildlife

Avoid decorations that might pose risks to birds, squirrels, or other wildlife. For example, avoid tinsel or sharp-edged ornaments that could harm animals.
Consider using natural decorations, like pinecones or dried fruit, which are safer and eco-friendly.

Bonus Tip: Incorporate Tree-Friendly Alternatives

If you’re looking for a unique and tree-safe way to decorate, consider ground-level options like light-up displays or luminaries around the base of the tree. These create a festive atmosphere without directly affecting the tree itself.

By following these holiday decorating dos and don’ts, you can enjoy a beautifully festive yard while keeping your trees healthy and safe. Remember, your trees are a valuable part of your landscape—and they deserve a little holiday TLC too! Happy decorating!

Winter’s Evergreen Wonders: Nature’s Timeless Holiday Charm

Sat, 07 Dec 2024 00:07:13 GMT

Liriopes Muse - Winter’s Evergreen Wonders: Nature’s Timeless Holiday Charm

As winter paints the world in frost and snow, evergreen trees stand as steadfast sentinels of life and vitality. Unlike their deciduous counterparts that shed their leaves, evergreens maintain their verdant splendor through the coldest months, offering beauty, shelter, and a festive spirit. These trees, rich in symbolism and ecological importance, are worth celebrating this holiday season.

The Resilient Nature of Evergreens

Evergreens, such as pines, spruces, firs, and cedars, are uniquely adapted to survive winter’s harsh conditions. Their needle-like leaves are coated in a waxy cuticle, reducing water loss and protecting them from freezing temperatures. The small surface area of needles minimizes snow accumulation, while their deep green color maximizes sunlight absorption, allowing photosynthesis even on short winter days.

This resilience makes evergreens not only a symbol of survival and endurance but also a vital part of the ecosystem, providing year-round habitat and food for wildlife.

Festive Traditions Rooted in Evergreens

Evergreens have been a symbol of life and renewal for centuries. Long before modern holiday traditions, ancient cultures revered these trees:

Ancient Romans adorned their homes with boughs of evergreen during Saturnalia, a festival celebrating the winter solstice.
Celts and Norse peoples saw evergreens as sacred, representing eternal life amidst the dormancy of winter.
The Christmas tree tradition as we know it began in Germany in the 16th century, with families decorating fir trees in their homes.

Today, evergreens are the heart of holiday décor, from wreaths to garlands, reminding us of nature’s enduring beauty and our connection to it.

Ecological Importance of Evergreens in Winter

While evergreens bring festive cheer, they also play critical roles in the natural world:

Wildlife refuge: Birds and mammals find shelter in their dense branches, protected from the cold and predators.
Food source: Many species rely on evergreens for sustenance, feasting on seeds, needles, and bark.
Erosion control: Their roots hold soil in place, even in snow-covered landscapes, preventing erosion and maintaining soil health.

Caring for Evergreens During Winter

If you have evergreens in your yard, winter is a crucial time to ensure their health and longevity. Here are some tips:

Hydration : Water your evergreens before the ground freezes to keep roots hydrated through winter.
Mulch : Add a layer of mulch around the base to insulate roots and retain soil moisture.
Protection : Use burlap screens to shield younger trees from harsh winds and sunscald.
Pruning : Remove damaged or dead branches, but save heavy pruning for the dormant season’s end.

Bringing Evergreens Indoors

The smell of fresh pine or cedar instantly evokes holiday joy. Consider incorporating evergreens into your home with:

Wreaths for your front door.
Garlands for mantels and staircases.
Table centerpieces adorned with berries, pinecones, and candles.

Opt for sustainably sourced or reusable decorations to honor the environment that gives us these magnificent trees.

A Toast to Winter’s Green Guardians

Evergreens remind us that life persists even in the coldest, darkest times. As you decorate your home or admire a snow-covered forest, take a moment to appreciate these resilient trees and the warmth they bring to the winter season. Whether it’s a festive fir, a stately spruce, or a humble holly, evergreens are a gift worth celebrating.

Happy Holidays from Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. to you and your Evergreens!

Thankful for Trees: The Roots of Thanksgiving Traditions

Fri, 29 Nov 2024 16:30:46 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Thankful for Trees: The Roots of Thanksgiving Traditions

As we gather to celebrate Thanksgiving, let’s take a moment to appreciate the trees that have quietly shaped this holiday. From the orchards to the forests, trees are woven into our traditions in more ways than we realize.

Apple Trees
What’s a Thanksgiving feast without apple pie? Apple trees give us not just a classic dessert but also a rich history. Introduced to North America by early settlers, these trees have become symbols of abundance and homegrown pride.

Oak Trees
In many regions, the fallen acorns from mighty oak trees fed the wild turkeys that graced the early Thanksgiving tables. Today, their colorful autumn leaves decorate our celebrations and remind us of nature’s beauty.

Maple Trees
Maple syrup may not sit on every Thanksgiving table, but these trees offer another kind of sweetness—the brilliant reds and golds of their fall foliage, setting the scene for the season of gratitude.

Pine and Spruce Trees
Evergreens stand tall through the colder months, reminding us of resilience and life even as winter approaches. They symbolize strength and continuity, fitting themes for a holiday centered on thankfulness.

This Thanksgiving, as you enjoy your meal and marvel at nature’s seasonal beauty, take a moment to give thanks for the trees. They are more than just a backdrop to our celebrations—they are living connections to the history, sustenance, and wonder that Thanksgiving represents.

Happy Thanksgiving From Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.!

Understanding Pine Tip Borers: Protecting Your Trees from These Damaging Pests

Fri, 22 Nov 2024 01:39:05 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Pine Tip Borers: What They Are and How to Protect Your Trees

Pine tip borers are small yet highly destructive pests that can severely damage pine trees if left unchecked. By burrowing into tender shoots and feeding on vital tissues, they disrupt tree growth, weaken branches, and make trees vulnerable to other stressors. Over time, infestations can lead to unsightly deformities and reduced tree health. Understanding how to identify these pests, their lifecycle, and their effects is essential for keeping your trees healthy and thriving.

What Are Pine Tip Borers?

Pine tip borers are larvae of several species of moths or beetles, depending on the region. These pests attack the tender new growth, or tips, of pine trees, burrowing into the shoots and feeding on the tissues inside. This feeding weakens the tree and disrupts its growth, making it vulnerable to additional stressors like drought or disease.

How to Identify Pine Tip Borers

Recognizing the signs of pine tip borers early can save your trees from extensive damage. Here’s what to look for:

Damaged or Curled Shoots
The most noticeable symptom is the wilting or curling of pine shoots. Infested shoots may also appear discolored, turning yellow or brown.
Holes in the Tips
Small, round holes at the base of the shoots indicate where larvae have entered.
Presence of Sawdust or Frass
Fine sawdust-like material, known as frass, may be visible near the entry holes, evidence of larval feeding.
Larvae or Pupae
Splitting open an affected shoot may reveal the larvae or pupae. Larvae are typically small, cream-colored, and worm-like, while pupae are brown and encased in silk-like cocoons.
Stunted Growth
Over time, repeated infestations can result in reduced growth, deformed branches, or a bushy appearance caused by the loss of terminal shoots.

The Lifecycle of Pine Tip Borers

Understanding the lifecycle of pine tip borers is key to effective management:

Egg Stage
Adult moths or beetles lay eggs on the needles or shoots of pine trees, usually during the spring.
Larval Stage
The larvae hatch and burrow into the tips, feeding on the internal tissues. This stage is when the most significant damage occurs.
Pupal Stage
After feeding, larvae pupate within the shoot or on the bark, emerging later as adults.
Adult Stage
Adults mate and lay eggs, completing the cycle. Depending on the species and climate, there may be multiple generations per year.

Harmful Effects on Trees

The impact of pine tip borers extends beyond aesthetic damage:

Weakened Shoots
Repeated infestations can kill new shoots, leading to a misshapen tree.
Stunted Growth
Trees lose their ability to grow vertically or produce strong branches.
Susceptibility to Other Stressors
Damaged trees are more vulnerable to diseases, drought, and other pests.
Economic Losses
For commercial pine plantations, pine tip borer infestations can reduce timber quality and yield.

Prevention and Management of Pine Tip Borers

Managing pine tip borers effectively involves a combination of cultural practices and targeted treatments:

Maintain Tree Health
Healthy trees are less susceptible to infestations. Ensure proper watering, mulching, and fertilization.
Prune Infested Shoots
Remove and destroy infested shoots to reduce the population of larvae. Pruning should be done during the dormant season to minimize stress.
Chemical Control
Insecticides can be applied during the egg-laying or early larval stages for effective control. Consult with a professional arborist for the appropriate product and timing.
Biological Control
Natural predators, such as parasitic wasps, can help reduce pine tip borer populations. Encouraging biodiversity in your landscape supports these beneficial insects.
Monitor Regularly
Inspect trees frequently, especially during the growing season, to catch early signs of infestation.

Protecting Your Pines from Pine Tip Borers

Pine tip borers may be small, but their impact on trees can be substantial. By staying vigilant, maintaining tree health, and addressing infestations promptly, you can protect your pines and preserve the beauty and value of your landscape.

If you suspect pine tip borers in your yard, our team of certified arborists is here to help. Contact Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. today for a thorough inspection and expert solutions to keep your trees thriving.

Understanding Pine Bark Beetles: Protect Your Pines Before It’s Too Late

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 17:06:18 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Understanding Pine Bark Beetles: Protect Your Pines Before It’s Too Late

Pine bark beetles are tiny but mighty pests that can wreak havoc on your pine trees. They spread quickly, introduce harmful pathogens, and often mean certain death for infested trees. The best defense against these destructive insects? Prevention. In this blog, we’ll cover what pine bark beetles are, how they affect your trees, and most importantly, how you can keep them at bay.

What Are Pine Bark Beetles?

Pine bark beetles are small insects that infest pine trees by burrowing through their bark. Once inside, they create intricate galleries where they lay eggs and disrupt the tree’s ability to transport water and nutrients. These pests are highly opportunistic, often targeting weakened or stressed trees, but in severe outbreaks, even healthy trees are at risk.

How Do Pine Bark Beetles Damage Trees?

Tree Dehydration
The beetles' burrowing damages the vascular system of the tree, preventing water and nutrients from circulating. This essentially starves the tree, leading to its decline.
Spread of Blue Stain Fungus
A major threat posed by pine bark beetles is the introduction of blue stain fungus. This pathogen is carried into the tree by the beetles and rapidly spreads through the wood. The fungus blocks water-conducting tissues, exacerbating dehydration and hastening the tree’s death.
Rapid Infestation and Tree Death
Pine bark beetles reproduce quickly, and a single infested tree can lead to a cascade of infestations in surrounding trees. Once a tree is heavily infested, it is often beyond saving, making prevention the most critical step.

Signs of Pine Bark Beetle Infestation

Small holes in the bark: Tiny, round holes on the trunk where beetles have entered or exited.
Pitch tubes: Resin or sap leaking from the tree, often appearing as small popcorn-like masses.
Discolored foliage: Yellowing or browning needles starting at the top and progressing downward.
Sawdust: Fine sawdust around the base of the tree or in bark crevices, a sign of beetle activity.

Preventing Pine Bark Beetle Infestations

Since treatment for heavily infested trees is rarely effective, prevention is the best strategy. Here’s how you can protect your pines:

Maintain Tree Health
Healthy trees are better equipped to resist beetle attacks. Ensure your pines receive adequate water, especially during droughts, and apply mulch to retain soil moisture.
Avoid Over-Pruning
Excessive pruning weakens trees, creating entry points for beetles. Prune only when necessary and follow best practices to minimize stress to the tree.
Remove Dead or Dying Trees
Dead or weakened trees are a magnet for pine bark beetles. Promptly remove and properly dispose of any infested or dying trees to prevent the spread to healthy ones.
Consider Preventative Treatments
Preventative insecticide treatments can be applied to healthy trees, especially if beetle activity is high in your area. Consult a certified arborist for appropriate options and timing.

The Cost of Inaction

Pine bark beetles are more than just a nuisance—they’re a death sentence for many pines if not managed proactively. These pests don’t just destroy trees; they also increase fire hazards, reduce property value, and alter ecosystems. Taking preventive measures now can save you time, money, and heartbreak later.

Partner with Professionals

Preventing pine bark beetle infestations requires vigilance and expert care. A certified arborist can inspect your trees, identify risks, and recommend tailored solutions to keep your yardscape healthy and thriving.

Don’t let pine bark beetles win—protect your pines and enjoy the beauty they bring to your landscape for years to come!

For more information or to schedule a tree health assessment with our Board Certified Master Arborist, contact Eric Putnam BCMA today!

Choosing the Right Tree Service: Why Vetting Matters and the Importance of a Quality Warranty

Fri, 08 Nov 2024 14:13:46 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Choosing the Right Tree Service: Why Vetting Matters and the Importance of a Quality Warranty

Hiring a tree service company can be a big decision, and not all companies offer the same level of quality, safety, and reliability. Whether it’s for routine tree trimming, removal, planting, or health assessments, your choice of service provider can impact not only the longevity of your trees but also the safety of your property. Here’s what to look for when vetting a tree care company, and why a warranty on their work is a must-have.

1. Certification and Qualifications Matter

Professional tree care is both an art and a science, and not everyone with a chainsaw qualifies as an arborist. Look for companies with certified arborists on staff—credentials like ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) certification signify that they’re trained in tree biology, health, and safety standards. Certification also demonstrates a commitment to continuous education, meaning they’re up-to-date with the latest industry standards.

2. Check Insurance and Licensing

Tree work can be hazardous, so make sure the company has both liability insurance and worker’s compensation coverage. This protects you as a homeowner in case of property damage or an on-site injury. Never hesitate to ask for proof of these coverages—any reputable company will be happy to provide documentation to give you peace of mind.

3. Ask About Warranties on Their Work

A tree service company that offers a warranty on their work is committed to quality and customer satisfaction. This could cover the health of a pruned tree, stability of a transplanted tree, or the longevity of a treated tree. A warranty provides assurance that the company will address any issues that arise from their work, ensuring your trees are in good hands.

4. Look for Customer Reviews and References

Customer reviews, testimonials, and references are valuable resources. A reputable company should have a solid track record with plenty of satisfied clients. Don’t just look at the ratings; read the feedback for insights into customer service, professionalism, and job quality.

5. Evaluate Their Approach to Safety and Equipment Standards

A dependable tree service will follow strict safety procedures and use appropriate, well-maintained equipment. If they can’t clearly explain their safety protocols or seem disorganized in their approach, it’s a red flag. Tree care can involve heavy machinery and hazardous work at heights, so professionalism in this area is critical.

6. Compare Estimates and Beware of Lowball Offers

Getting multiple quotes is wise, but beware of offers that are significantly lower than others. Low-cost tree services might skip important safety steps or lack the experience required to do the job right. Instead, look for competitive pricing that aligns with the value and warranty provided. Quality tree care is an investment in your landscape’s future.

Invest in Your Trees with Confidence

Choosing the right tree service company goes beyond price—it’s about securing a team that values your property, safety, and the long-term health of your trees. Taking the time to vet providers, check for proper certification, insurance, and warranties ensures you’re making an informed decision. When you work with a company that offers a warranty on their work, you’re choosing peace of mind, knowing that your trees will be in the best hands.

Your trees deserve the best care. Reach out today to learn more about our services, our warranties, and how we stand by every job we do. ��

Celebrating the Post Oak Tree: A Sturdy Icon of North American Forests

Sat, 02 Nov 2024 04:01:10 GMT

Liriopes Muse - Celebrating the Post Oak Tree: A Sturdy Icon of North American Forests

The post oak (Quercus stellata) is a remarkable native tree species, known for its rugged beauty, hardiness, and ecological significance. This member of the white oak family can be found predominantly in the central and eastern United States, from Texas to Missouri and across to Virginia, where it has become a staple in forests, grasslands, and open fields. Here’s a closer look at what makes the post oak such a valuable part of our natural landscape.

Characteristics of the Post Oak

This oak is a hardy, medium-sized tree with distinctive features that set it apart from other oak species. Typically growing between 30 and 50 feet tall, the post oak is recognized by its thick, rough, and grayish-brown bark and uniquely shaped leaves, which have a cruciform (cross-like) appearance with five rounded lobes. Its leaves are dark green and leathery, turning a warm golden-brown in the fall, adding seasonal beauty to the landscape. Post oaks are also known for their sturdy, twisted branches and deeply furrowed bark, which adds to their unique rugged appearance.

Resilience in Tough Conditions

One of the most impressive qualities of the post oak is its resilience. It thrives in poor, dry soils that would challenge many other tree species. The tree’s drought tolerance and ability to withstand nutrient-poor soils allow it to grow where other species struggle. This makes the post oak a valuable tree in regions prone to drought or areas with challenging soil conditions.

Moreover, post oak trees are often among the most fire-resistant in their native range, thier thick bark and slow growth rate allow it to survive in areas where other trees might not.

Ecological Importance of the Post Oak

The post oak tree plays a vital role in its ecosystem, providing food, shelter, and stability to local wildlife and plant communities. Its acorns are a key food source for a variety of animals, including deer, squirrels, wild turkeys, and other birds, especially in winter when food is scarce. The tree’s dense, sturdy branches offer excellent nesting sites, while its thick canopy provides shade and cover for smaller mammals and birds. Post oaks also support insects, such as moths and butterflies, that rely on the leaves and bark, contributing to a diverse and healthy ecosystem. In fire-prone regions, post oaks are essential stabilizers due to their high fire resistance; their thick bark and ability to regrow from the root crown after fires allow them to survive in fire-adapted landscapes, helping to reduce soil erosion and maintain habitat structure. By thriving in poor, rocky soils and withstanding drought, post oaks also support ecosystem resilience in challenging conditions where other trees may struggle to grow.

Post Oak in Landscaping and Conservation

While not a common ornamental choice due to its slow growth and unique shape, the post oak can be a valuable addition to sustainable landscaping projects. It’s an excellent choice for xeriscaping or conservation efforts, particularly where water conservation is a priority. Homeowners looking to add a native tree to their landscape that supports local wildlife should consider the post oak, especially if they have the space and patience for this slow-growing species.

Challenges Facing the Post Oak

The post oak faces several significant challenges, largely due to human activity and environmental pressures. Urban expansion and land development are major threats, as the tree’s deep taproot and intolerance for soil disturbance make it vulnerable to construction and changes in land use. Soil compaction, grading, and trenching around post oaks can severely damage or kill mature trees, as they rely on an undisturbed root system to thrive. Additionally, the post oak’s slow growth rate makes it less adaptable to rapidly changing environments, and it does not recover easily from root damage. Climate change poses another challenge, as shifts in temperature and rainfall patterns may disrupt the dry, well-drained soils post oaks need. Pests and diseases, such as oak wilt, can also threaten post oak populations, especially in weakened or stressed trees. Conservation efforts and careful planning around these trees are crucial to help mitigate these challenges and ensure the survival of this resilient yet vulnerable species.

The post oak is a hardy, beautiful tree that has stood the test of time, surviving in some of the toughest environments North America has to offer. Whether you’re an arborist, a landowner, or simply a nature enthusiast, take a moment to appreciate the post oak’s unique contributions to our landscapes and ecosystems. Protecting and nurturing these trees will help ensure that future generations get to experience the beauty and resilience of the post oak as well.

Why Fall is the Ideal Season for Planting Trees

Fri, 25 Oct 2024 13:29:05 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Why Fall is the Ideal Season for Planting Trees

Planting trees is one of the most impactful ways to improve your landscape and benefit the environment. However, choosing the right season to plant can make all the difference in helping a tree thrive. While many assume spring is the best time to plant, fall actually provides a greater advantage, allowing new trees a valuable head start to establish their roots well before the stress of summer heat.

Here’s why planting trees in the fall can give them the best start before the stress of the summer heat:

1. Soil Temperature and Root Establishment

Fall brings cooler air temperatures, but the soil remains warm enough to promote active root growth. Roots continue to develop in the fall, even as the tree’s top growth slows or stops. By planting in autumn, trees get several months to establish their root systems before the following summer. This early root development allows them to draw on necessary water and nutrients to endure future droughts or heat.

2. Reduced Transpiration

In the summer, trees lose moisture quickly through their leaves—a process called transpiration. High temperatures increase this water loss, often leading to stress in newly planted trees. However, in fall, cooler temperatures slow down this process, meaning newly planted trees lose less moisture. This period of reduced transpiration lets young trees conserve more energy for root establishment rather than using up their resources trying to maintain hydration.

3. Lower Pest and Disease Pressure

Spring and summer are active periods for many insects and pathogens that can harm newly planted trees. In fall, pest and disease pressures are naturally lower, reducing the likelihood of an infestation or infection while the tree is still vulnerable. This allows your tree to get a healthier start, free from many common stressors that are more prevalent in warmer months.

4. Less Watering Required

When trees are planted in the spring, they require regular watering to withstand the upcoming heat of summer. Fall, on the other hand, often brings increased rainfall, providing newly planted trees with natural hydration. While young trees still need some watering after planting, fall's cooler weather and occasional rains help keep soil moisture levels stable, reducing the need for supplemental watering.

5. Spring Growth Boost

Trees planted in the fall benefit from winter dormancy, which further encourages root development without the demands of top growth. When spring arrives, these trees already have a solid root foundation and can put their energy into healthy new growth rather than struggling to establish roots. This head start gives fall-planted trees a noticeable advantage, helping them flourish in the spring.

Key Tips for Successful Fall Planting

Choose Native or Adapted Species: Selecting species suited to your climate will increase the chances of survival and growth success. Native trees are especially resilient and often require less maintenance.

Monitor Soil Moisture: Although fall reduces the need for frequent watering, check soil moisture regularly. Newly planted trees should receive about one inch of water per week until the ground freezes.

Mulch for Protection: Apply a layer of mulch around the tree’s base to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, but keep it away from the trunk to avoid decay.

By planting in the fall, you set up your trees for success with reduced stress, minimal pest issues, and the time they need to build strong, resilient roots. As they grow, these trees will bring countless benefits to your landscape—providing shade, beauty, and environmental support for years to come.

Protecting Trees and Homeowners: A Call to Rethink Forced Pruning by Insurance Companies

Fri, 11 Oct 2024 13:03:13 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Protecting Trees and Homeowners: A Call to Rethink Forced Pruning by Insurance Companies

Trees are not just landscape features; they are living organisms, many of which have stood for centuries. Unfortunately, insurance companies are increasingly pressuring homeowners to prune or remove trees under the guise of liability and safety concerns. While safety is important, this approach often leads to over-pruning, which can weaken or even kill trees, especially older, historic ones.

Forced pruning can have devastating effects on a tree’s health such as:

1. Reduction in Photosynthesis

Leaves are the primary organs for photosynthesis, where sunlight is converted into energy (sugars) that fuel the tree’s growth and maintenance. Over-pruning removes a significant portion of the canopy, reducing the tree’s ability to produce this vital energy. Without enough leaves, the tree is essentially starved, forcing it to rely on stored energy reserves. If these reserves are depleted, the tree will weaken, potentially leading to dieback in branches or roots.

2. Stressed Growth Response

When too much of the canopy is removed, trees often go into a state of shock and trigger a rapid growth response, known as epicormic sprouting. This stress reaction results in the production of weak, poorly attached shoots that are prone to breaking off. While this is a survival mechanism to compensate for the loss of leaves, the new growth is structurally unsound and does little to restore the tree’s health.

3. Increased Vulnerability to Pests and Disease

Pruning creates wounds, which trees naturally seal over with time. However, large or excessive pruning cuts overwhelm a tree’s natural healing capacity and weaken its allelopathic response leaving it vulnerable to invasion by pathogens, fungi, and pests. Trees with weakened allelopathic chemicals and large wounds make for the perfect breeding grounds.

4. Disruption of Hormonal Balance

Pruning disturbs the balance of hormones within the tree, particularly auxins and cytokinins, which regulate growth. The disruption of these hormones causes erratic growth patterns, leading to weak branch development and inefficient nutrient distribution. Over time, this imbalance can lead to reduced vitality and uneven growth, leaving the tree structurally compromised.

5. Compromised Root Health

There is a strong relationship between a tree's canopy and its root system.(or its natural root-to-shoot ratio) The leaves support root growth by providing the necessary sugars for energy. When over-pruned, the root system becomes undernourished, leading to root dieback. This weakens the tree's anchorage and water/nutrient uptake, further jeopardizing its health. In extreme cases, a significant loss of roots can destabilize the tree, increasing the risk of it falling during storms.

6. Loss of Stored Energy

Mature and historic trees store energy reserves in their wood, which they rely on during periods of stress. When over-pruned, these energy reserves are drained to sustain the tree through a difficult period of recovery. However, in cases of excessive or repeated over-pruning, the tree may not have enough energy to recover, leading to irreversible decline.

7. Structural Weakness

Excessive pruning can remove critical load-bearing branches, disrupting the natural masdamping process of the tree. The loss of major branches can lead to weakened structural integrity and imbalance, making the tree more susceptible to wind damage or branch failure.

Over time, this can lead to irreversible damage or death. For historic and mature trees, which are irreplaceable assets to the community and environment, such practices are particularly harmful.

The above images show the before and after of a city carrying out pruning as instructed by insurance. (different angles, but the same trees.

Instead of blanket policies that require aggressive pruning, insurance companies should work with certified arborists to assess trees on a case-by-case basis. Homeowners should advocate for a balanced approach—one that prioritizes both safety and the preservation of these natural treasures. By doing so, we can protect our homes and the irreplaceable beauty and environmental benefits that trees provide.

Homeowners, stand up for your trees. Insist on assessments from professionals who understand tree health, and push back against practices that could lead to long-term harm. The health of our trees is an investment in the future of our neighborhoods, our environment, and our history.

Sources:

https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/2020/07/09/why-did-they-cut-my-trees-2/

Why Are Leaves Green? The Science Behind Nature's Color Palette

Mon, 07 Oct 2024 00:51:59 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Why Are Leaves Green? The Science Behind Nature's Color Palette

If you've ever wandered through a forest, admired a sprawling oak, or simply observed the trees in your yard, you might have wondered: why are tree leaves green? The answer lies in a fascinating combination of biology, chemistry, and evolution, all working together to keep our trees healthy and vibrant. In this blog, we’ll explore the science behind green leaves and what makes this color so essential to trees—and to life on Earth.

The Role of Chlorophyll

The primary reason tree leaves appear green is due to a pigment called chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is vital for a process known as photosynthesis, where trees (and other plants) convert sunlight into energy. This pigment absorbs light, particularly from the blue and red parts of the light spectrum, while reflecting the green wavelengths. That reflected green light is what makes leaves appear green to our eyes.

But chlorophyll isn’t just for show. It's the powerhouse behind the tree's ability to feed itself. Through photosynthesis, trees use chlorophyll to absorb sunlight and convert it into chemical energy, which is then used to turn carbon dioxide and water into glucose, a type of sugar that nourishes the tree. This process also releases oxygen into the atmosphere—a critical factor for all living beings on Earth.

Why Green and Not Another Color?

At this point, you might ask: why is chlorophyll green and not another color? The answer is related to the nature of light and energy efficiency. Sunlight contains all the colors of the spectrum, but chlorophyll is most efficient at absorbing blue and red light. These wavelengths provide the right amount of energy needed for photosynthesis. Green light, however, isn’t as effective for energy conversion, so it’s mostly reflected rather than absorbed, making leaves appear green.

This selective absorption isn’t unique to chlorophyll. Other pigments, such as carotenoids and anthocyanins, are also present in leaves, but they typically contribute more to autumnal colors like yellow, orange, and red. Chlorophyll’s dominance in the growing season ensures that green remains the primary color.

Seasonal Changes in Leaf Color

While tree leaves are predominantly green during the spring and summer, you’ve probably noticed that they change color in the fall. As days get shorter and temperatures drop, trees prepare for winter by reducing their chlorophyll production. Without as much chlorophyll to mask them, other pigments like carotenoids and anthocyanins become visible, giving leaves their vibrant autumn hues.

In essence, the changing colors are a visual sign that the tree is going dormant and conserving energy for the colder months ahead. The decrease in chlorophyll allows the natural pigments that have always been in the leaves to finally show through.

Evolutionary Advantage of Green Leaves

Trees evolved to have green leaves for a very practical reason: survival. The efficiency of chlorophyll in harvesting sunlight for photosynthesis allowed early plants to thrive, particularly in environments with plentiful light. Over millions of years, this trait became dominant, giving plants and trees a significant evolutionary advantage.

The green color also offers some protective benefits. Green leaves tend to absorb less heat compared to darker-colored leaves, which helps prevent the tree from overheating during hot summer months. Additionally, chlorophyll helps to shield the tree from ultraviolet radiation.

Green Leaves, Green Earth

The green color of tree leaves is more than just a pleasant backdrop for our lives—it’s a vital indicator of the intricate processes happening inside every tree. Through chlorophyll and photosynthesis, trees create their own food, provide oxygen for us to breathe, and contribute to the delicate balance of ecosystems.

Next time you gaze up at a lush canopy of leaves, you’ll know that those shades of green represent the power of nature’s own energy production system at work, a process that has sustained life on Earth for millions of years.

By appreciating the science behind tree leaves, we also gain a deeper understanding of why trees are so vital to our planet. From the oxygen they produce to the shelter they provide, trees continue to be one of the most essential components of the natural world.

The Toxic Relationship Between Trees and Grass

Tue, 01 Oct 2024 12:49:50 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Toxic Relationship Between Trees and Grass

In many landscapes, trees and grass coexist, but not always harmoniously. It is a common misconception that grass does not grow under the trees canopy due to the shade or lack of sun, which is simply incorrect. This is due to the natural phenomenon known as allelopathy. The term allelopathy comes from the Greek words allel and pathy, which mean "mutual harm" or "suffering". Think of this like a plants immune system to ward off other plants. These biochemicals influence the germination, growth, survival, and reproduction of other organisms. Allelochemicals also function by reducing nutrient availability and essential nutrients to other plants.

In the context of trees and grass, allelopathy often plays a role in shaping the dynamics of their coexistence. Trees can release allelochemicals through their roots or leaf litter, which can suppress the growth of grass. A prime example of this toxic relationship is the black walnut (Juglans nigra) it is notorious for its allelopathic effects. It produces a compound called juglone, which can stunt or prevent the growth of grass and other plants beneath its canopy. Pine trees are another example, releasing acidic compounds through their needles that alter soil pH, making it less favorable for grass growth.

On the other hand, grasses allelopathy can also affect trees. Some grasses, particularly when densely growing, can outcompete young trees for water and nutrients, limiting their establishment and growth.

Benefits and Challenges

For trees, allelopathy can be a beneficial strategy. By suppressing the growth of grass and other understory vegetation, trees can reduce competition for essential resources like water, nutrients, and sunlight. This allows them to establish and maintain their dominance in an ecosystem.

However, this relationship can pose challenges for gardeners, landscapers, and arborists who aim to cultivate both trees and grass in the same area. The inhibitory effects of allelopathy can make it difficult to maintain a lush lawn under certain tree species. In such cases, selecting tree and grass species that are compatible and less affected by each other's allelochemicals is crucial.

In your landscape there is constant and invisible competition between each and every plant from the trees and shrubs to the weeds and flowers. In essence its all about survival of the fittest. Understanding this relationship is important for homeowners and landscapers. By carefully selecting plant species and employing strategic landscaping practices, it is possible to mitigate the challenges posed by allelopathic interactions and foster a thriving garden where trees and grass can coexist.

Ruling out allelopathy

Sometimes a trees allelopathy is not the only thing keeping your under canopy grasses from thriving, there are species that can’t tolerate the shade as well as others. Choosing shade tolerant grasses, making sure to keep them well watered, and constantly seeding so that their population can grow are a few ways to keep the grasses flourishing in your yard.

Julia Lorraine Hill: The Woman Who Lived in a Tree to Save a Forest

Wed, 25 Sep 2024 00:08:51 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Julia Lorraine Hill: The Woman Who Lived in a Tree to Save a Forest

When it comes to environmental activism, Julia Lorraine Hill, also known as "Butterfly," stands out as a symbol of dedication and courage. Born in 1974, Hill's life took a dramatic turn after a near-fatal car accident in 1996. During her recovery, she vowed to dedicate her life to a meaningful cause, which led her to the ancient redwoods of Northern California.

In 1997, at the age of 23, Hill climbed into a 1,500-year-old redwood tree named Luna to protest the clear-cutting practices of the Pacific Lumber Company. What began as a short demonstration turned into an epic 738-day tree sit. From her perch 180 feet above the ground, Hill endured harsh weather, isolation, and threats from loggers. Her perseverance drew global attention to the issue of deforestation.

Hill’s relentless advocacy paid off in 1999 when an agreement was reached to protect Luna and a surrounding buffer zone. Her memoir, The Legacy of Luna, recounts her experiences and the profound connection she developed with nature during her tree sit.

Julia Hill's activism did not end with Luna. She continues to fight for environmental and social justice, inspiring countless others with her message of interconnectedness and sustainable living. Her story is a powerful reminder that one person’s commitment can ignite significant change, proving that every action we take impacts the world around us.

Hill’s legacy as a modern-day environmental hero encourages us all to stand up for what we believe in and protect the natural world for future generations.

CODIT: A Trees Healing

Fri, 13 Sep 2024 13:43:34 GMT

Liriope's Muse - CODIT: A Trees Healing

CODIT is an acronym for Compartmentalization Of Decay In Trees. This term is used in the tree care industry to describe the processes that occurs when a tree is wounded, whether it be by pruning, pests, or mechanical injury. Unlike humans, trees cannot heal their wounds but they can seal them off through compartmentalization. This natural process isolates damaged or decaying tissue from healthy tissue, preventing the spread of disease/pathogens into exposed healthy wood. It also separates dead branches from the trunk and other living branches.

CODIT begins immediately after a tree is wounded. On a cellular level, the trees cells begin to form “Walls” around the wound, preventing or slowing the spread od disease and decay to the rest of the tree. There are 4 walls in the process of CODIT:

Wall 1: the first, and the weakest wall, is formed in the vertical vascular system above and below the wound inhibiting the vertical movement of decay organisms. This wall is made up of gums, resins, and tyloses (all products of the vascular system).

Wall 2: the second, and second weakest, is the tangential wall. This barrier is formed by the last cells in each growth ring and inhibits the spread of decay inward.

Wall 3: the Third, and strongest wall at the time of the wound, is composed of ray cells. These cells inhibit the movement of decay around the stem (or in a radial direction), creating a maze-like barrier.

Wall 4: the fourth wall, also known as the barrier wall, is the strongest with its ability to completely isolate and compartmentalize the decayed tissues that have formed. This protective wall is formed by the cambium layer directly following the trees injury. It works by restricting the movement of decay into other tissues formed after the wound. The cells that make up the fourth wall contain thick walls and chemicals that are toxic to decay organisms.

The effectiveness of CODIT can vary based on the tree species and the nature of the wound, but it is a critical mechanism that helps trees manage and limit the damage from injuries.

CODIT and Pruning

A tree's response to pruning depends on the size, location, and nature of the cut. Improper cuts or cuts too close to the trunk or leaving large stubs increase the risk of decay and structural weakening. While trees don't heal wounds, they can close smaller ones and form protective barriers around damaged areas. Poor pruning makes trees more vulnerable to decay and instability, so proper pruning techniques are crucial for tree health.

Resources:

https://mntca.umn.edu/sites/mntca.umn.edu/files/2021-01/CODIT%20Booklet.pdf

https://www.bartlett.com/resources/compartmentalization-of-decay-in-trees.pdf

Understanding Tree Girdling: How It Affects Your Trees and How to Prevent It

Mon, 09 Sep 2024 16:41:02 GMT

Liriopes Muse - Understanding Tree Girdling: How It Affects Your Trees and How to Prevent It

Tree girdling is a common condition plaguing many urban trees, often going unnoticed until significant damage has been done. This issue occurs when roots wrap around the base of a tree, restricting the flow of water and nutrients, eventually leading to decline or death. Proper planting techniques, regular inspections, and early intervention are the keys to avoiding this common problem and promoting long-term tree health. By understanding the causes and taking preventive measures, homeowners can help their trees thrive in the challenging conditions of urban environments. In this blog we delve into all things girdling.

How Does Tree Girdling Happen?

Tree girdling occurs when a tree grows around an object that is obstructing its natural development. Some common causes include:

Encircling Roots: Roots that grow in a circle around the trunk, often due to being planted too deeply, in a confined space, or as a result of volcano mulching.
Decks, Fences, or Other Structures: Trees planted too close to buildings or other structures can grow around them, creating a girdling effect.
Tree Straps or Supports: Straps used to stabilize young trees can become embedded in the bark as the tree grows, cutting into the trunk.

Whether it's roots or objects causing the restriction, the outcome is the same: the tree's growth and ability to uptake water and nutrients is severely hindered.

*The picture on the left shows root girdling and the picture on the right shows mechanical girdling cased by a deck*

Mechanical vs. Root Girdling

There are two primary types of girdling: mechanical and root girdling.

Mechanical Girdling: This occurs when an external object, such as tree straps, wire, or fencing, constricts the tree’s trunk. Over time, the object embeds into the bark, cutting off the flow of nutrients.
Root Girdling: This type of girdling happens when a tree’s roots grow around themselves, encircling the trunk and essentially choking the tree from within. Root girdling is often caused by volcano mulching or improper planting, where roots are confined and forced to grow in circular patterns.

What is Root Girdling?

Root girdling is a harmful condition that occurs when a tree's roots grow in a circular pattern around the trunk or other roots, creating a constriction. This can happen naturally or when an external object, like a volcano of mulch, tree strap, or a structure, obstructs the tree's normal growth. Over time, this restricts the tree's ability to transport water, nutrients, and essential resources, leading to stunted growth, reduced vigor, and even death.

Is Your Tree Girdled? Here's What to Do

If you notice that your tree is girdled, it’s important to take action quickly. Here’s how:

Identify the Problem: Look for visible signs of girdling, such as roots growing around the trunk, straps or wires embedded in the bark, or noticeable swelling above the obstruction.
Remove the Obstruction: If the girdling is caused by an external object like a strap, carefully remove it to allow the tree to heal. For root girdling, you may need to carefully cut away encircling roots to relieve the pressure.
Seek Professional Help: In cases of severe girdling, it’s best to consult an arborist. They can assess the damage and take appropriate steps to save the tree, such as root pruning or other corrective measures.

Is Your Tree at Risk of Girdling? Here's How to Save It

Prevention is key to avoiding girdling before it becomes a problem. Here are some tips to protect your tree:

Regular Inspections: Periodically check for roots encircling the trunk or any straps that might be constricting growth.
Early Intervention: If you spot roots starting to girdle the tree, early root pruning can prevent long-term damage.
Relocate Structures: If your tree is growing near a fence, deck, or other structure, ensure these objects are not putting pressure on the tree or restricting its growth.

*The image on the left is a tree that has just freshly planted in needing of support, the tree on the right is the same tree a week later after the root ball pinning*

What if the Strap is Supporting the Tree? Alternatives to Strapping

Sometimes straps are used to support young or newly planted trees, but leaving them on too long can lead to girdling. If you’re concerned that the strap is necessary for support, consider staking your newly planted tree. Four stakes can be driven through the root ball into the ground to anchor/pin the root ball into place. This supports the tree without directly wrapping the tree’s trunk, avoiding any chance of the tree girdling. This helps the newly planted tree to create a stronger more rigid trunk and root system.

Another alternative to strapping an unstable tree is anchoring. You can anchor a tree by drilling an eyebolt into the trunk of the tree and attach the guys(or straps) to the eyebolt and into the ground. This prevents the straps from girdling the tree. This method should only be used on trees where staking the tree is more of a permanent measure or where root pinning is no longer an option. (I.E. a tree blown over during a storm)

To learn which method works best for your tree’s unique situation, you should contact a local certified arborist.

How to Avoid Girdling in the Future

Prevention is the best cure when it comes to girdling. Here are some key steps to take:

Long-term Staking: Using an eyebolt to attach the straps to the tree trunk is the best method for standing up an unsteady tree. This prevents the straps from girdling the tree.
Root Ball Pinning: This method is best used on newly planted trees to help them establish a strong trunk and root system without the risk of girdling. It involves driving 4 stakes into the root ball holding it steady in place.
Avoid Volcano Mulching: Piling mulch too high around the base of the tree can encourage adventitious root growth, or roots to grow out of the sides of the trunk. This can lead to root girdling. So, it is important to keep mulch away from the base of the trunk and apply it properly.

(Check out this blog to learn about the dangers of volcano mulching, its effect on your trees, and how to properly apply it)

4. Don’t Strap the Tree for Too Long: If you need to stabilize a young tree, only use straps or ties temporarily, and check them

regularly to ensure they aren’t becoming too tight.

5. Be Mindful of Fence and Structure Placement: When planting trees, ensure they have enough space to grow without being obstructed by fences, decks, or other structures that may cause future girdling.

By understanding the risks and taking proactive measures, you can ensure your trees grow healthy and strong without the threat of girdling. Proper planting techniques, regular inspections, and early intervention are the keys to avoiding this common problem and promoting long-term tree health.

Ball Moss, an Epidemic

Fri, 30 Aug 2024 14:47:12 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Ball Moss, an Epidemic

Ball moss (Tillandsia recurvata) is a small, tufted plant that often appears on the branches of trees in the southern United States and other warm, humid climates. While it’s commonly mistaken for a harmful parasite, ball moss is actually an epiphyte, meaning it is self-sufficient and can also grow on nonliving hosts such as telephone poles, rocks, fences, and just about any other spot it can anchor its roots. Despite this, its presence can still have negative effects on trees, particularly when it becomes abundant. In this article, we'll explore the impact of ball moss on trees and what you can do to manage it.

What Is Ball Moss?

Ball moss is a member of the bromeliad family, which includes other well-known plants like Spanish moss and pineapples. It typically forms dense clumps about the size of a tennis ball, hence the name "ball moss." The plant attaches itself to the bark of trees using tiny, root-like structures called "holdfasts." Unlike true roots, these holdfasts do not penetrate the tree's bark or extract nutrients; instead, ball moss absorbs moisture and nutrients from the air.

The Negative Effects of Ball Moss

While ball moss does not directly harm trees by feeding on them, its presence can lead to several negative effects:

1. Allelopathic Competition

Ball moss, like every plant has its own unique allelopathic chemicals. The term allelopathy comes from the Greek words allel and pathy, which mean "mutual harm" or "suffering". Think of this like a plants immune system to ward off other plants. These biochemicals influence the germination, growth, survival, and reproduction of other organisms. Moreover, some allelochemicals may function by reducing nutrient availability and essential nutrients.

That said, healthy trees do not typically get ball moss infestations as they are able to naturally ward them off. (1) However, when a tree is stressed (and its natural allelopathy is weakened) it can become inundated with these mossy epiphytes. The moss’ allelopathic chemicals in small quantities is no problem for a tree, however in large quantities they can become highly toxic and negatively influence the trees growth by inhibiting cell division and foliage growth reducing the trees photosynthesis capacity and the overall vigor.(2) This weakens the tree making them more susceptible to pests, diseases, and even other plants/trees due to their reduced allelopathic defense.

2. Reduced Light and Airflow

When ball moss becomes abundant, it can create dense clusters on tree branches. These clusters can block sunlight from reaching the leaves, which are essential for photosynthesis. Additionally, the mass of ball moss can reduce airflow around the branches, potentially creating a more humid environment that favors the growth of fungi and other pathogens.

3. Increased Weight on Branches

Ball moss may not seem heavy individually, but when numerous clumps accumulate, they can add significant weight to the branches. This added weight can stress the branches, making them more susceptible to breaking, especially during storms or high winds. In extreme cases, heavily infested branches may even break off entirely.

4. Competition for Space

While ball moss doesn’t directly compete with trees for nutrients, it does compete for space on the branches. The physical presence of ball moss can crowd out new growth, particularly on smaller branches and twigs. Over time, this can reduce the tree’s ability to produce new leaves and shoots, leading to a decline in overall health.

5. Attracting insects

Ball moss can create an environment that attracts various harmful insects. These insects can range from benign species to those that pose a serious threat to the health of your already stressed trees. For instance, scale and aphids, bark beetles, spider mites, and more. These pests not only damage the tree but they are vectors for disease as well.

6. Aesthetic Concerns

From an aesthetic standpoint, ball moss can detract from the appearance of a tree. While some people find the presence of ball moss visually appealing, others may view it as unsightly, particularly when it becomes dense and covers large portions of a tree. For homeowners and property managers, this can be a concern, especially if the tree is a focal point in the landscape.

Managing Ball Moss

Managing ball moss is generally straightforward, but it requires consistent effort to prevent it from becoming a significant problem.

1. Pruning

Regular pruning of affected branches can help reduce the amount of ball moss on a tree. By removing infested branches, you can improve light penetration and airflow, reducing the likelihood of ball moss proliferating. Pruning also helps alleviate the added weight on branches, minimizing the risk of breakage.

2. Manual Removal

For smaller infestations, ball moss can be manually removed from the tree. This involves carefully pulling or cutting the clumps away from the branches. While time-consuming, this method is effective and doesn’t require chemicals.

3. Chemical Control

In cases where ball moss has become widespread and manual removal is impractical, chemical control may be necessary. Through our personal in field experience, we’ve found that baking soda works best (as recommended by Texas A&M) and copper products harm the natural and essential microflora of the tree. (3) The application of baking soda doesn’t harm trees but kills moss by drying it out and creating an unstable breeding ground on the tree. Baking soda is highly effective in the management of ball moss, it can kill an entire infestation in just a few days.

Prevention

The best way to manage ball moss is to prevent it from becoming established in the first place. Regularly inspect your trees for early signs of ball moss and take action promptly if you notice any clumps forming. Ensuring that your trees are healthy and well-maintained can also reduce the likelihood of ball moss taking hold, as vigorous trees are better equipped to resist infestations.

While ball moss is not a parasitic threat to trees, its presence can still have negative effects, particularly when it becomes abundant. By understanding the impact of ball moss and taking proactive steps to manage it, you can help ensure that your trees remain healthy, strong, and visually appealing. Regular pruning, manual removal, and, if necessary, chemical treatments can all be effective in controlling ball moss and preventing it from becoming a significant problem in your landscape.

Sources :

(1)https://openurl.ebsco.com/EPDB%3Agcd%3A9%3A7092025/detailv2?sid=ebsco%3Aplink%3Ascholar&id=ebsco%3Agcd%3A89128505&crl=c

(2)https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/journal-of-tropical-ecology/article/abs/do-epiphytes-affect-the-fitness-of-their-phorophytes-the-case-of-tillandsia-recurvata-on-bursera-copallifera/592F1DAB4037EC1F63CB32B192648D3A

(3)https://kerr.agrilife.org/files/2014/02/ball-moss1.pdf

Understanding Tree Roots: How They Affect Your Yard and What You Need to Know About Managing Them

Mon, 19 Aug 2024 14:34:20 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Understanding Tree Roots: How They Affect Your Yard and What You Need to Know About Managing Them

A common concern among our customers is the impact of tree roots on their yards, particularly regarding the health of their driveways and sidewalks and maintaining the overall aesthetic appeal. In this blog, we'll explore the reality of how roots interact with concrete and structures, as well as the crucial role a tree's root system plays and why it is so essential to the life of the tree.

**This image shows a tree's roots in relation to a side walk. It is symbiotic. Often in cities, you will see roots "spilling" over

the side of a sidewalk or street if the foundation is built soundly, but if they aren't you will notice the roots breaking through

and cracking the foundation.**

The root system of a tree is essential to its health and stability, serving as both its anchor and lifeline. Roots draw in water and vital nutrients from the soil, which are then distributed throughout the tree to support growth, foliage, and fruit production. They also store energy as carbohydrates, providing the tree with the necessary resources to endure periods of stress, such as drought or harsh weather. Furthermore, roots secure the tree in place, preventing it from toppling during storms. A robust root system is fundamental to the tree’s longevity, structural integrity, and overall ability to thrive in its environment.

Contrary to popular belief, tree roots don't inherently cause damage to concrete or structures on their own. Instead, they typically exacerbate pre-existing issues in the surrounding environment. For instance, when concrete is already cracked or weakened due to natural settling, weathering, or poor installation, tree roots can find their way into these existing faults as they search for moisture and nutrients. As the roots grow, they can widen these cracks or lift weakened sections, making the damage more noticeable. However, without an initial vulnerability in the concrete or structure, tree roots alone are unlikely to break through solid, intact materials. This means that proper construction techniques and regular maintenance of sidewalks, driveways, and foundations can significantly reduce the likelihood of root-related damage.

FAQ’s

Is it safe to remove my trees roots above ground, they are unsightly and posing a trip hazard?

While it may be tempting to remove exposed tree roots that are unsightly or pose a trip hazard, doing so can harm the tree. These above-ground roots are essential for the tree’s stability and health, as they help absorb water and nutrients while anchoring the tree. Cutting or removing them can stress the tree, making it more vulnerable to disease, pests, and even structural failure. Instead of removing the roots, consider alternative solutions like adding mulch to cover them or creating a pathway that reduces the trip hazard without damaging the roots. Consulting with a professional arborist can help you find the best approach.

I plan on doing construction in my yard, how can preserve my trees’ roots?

To preserve your trees’ roots during construction, it's essential to establish a protective zone around the tree, known as the tree protection zone (TPZ), which should extend at least to the tree's drip line. Limit any excavation or heavy machinery use within this area to prevent root damage. If construction near the TPZ is unavoidable, consult with an arborist to implement strategies like root pruning, using protective barriers, mulching the area to reduce soil compaction, and treating the tree(s) with a biostimulant. Proper planning and taking these precautions will help maintain your trees' health and stability during the construction process.

Why are my tree’s roots sticking up above the ground?

Tree roots can emerge above the ground for several reasons, often due to environmental factors or the tree’s natural growth patterns. In compacted or shallow soil, roots may rise to the surface in search of oxygen and water, which are less available deeper underground. Erosion or soil loss can also expose roots that were once buried. Additionally, some tree species naturally develop surface roots as they grow older. While exposed roots are generally not harmful to the tree, they can present challenges for lawn care and may require special attention to avoid damage or further exposure.

Crape Mytle Bark Scale (CMBS)

Fri, 09 Aug 2024 14:08:40 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Crape Mytle Bark Scale (CMBS)

Crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia spp.) are cherished for their vibrant summer blooms and striking bark. However, these beautiful trees and shrubs face a growing threat from crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae). This invasive pest, first identified in the U.S. in 2004, can cause significant damage if left unmanaged. In this blog, we’ll explore what crape myrtle bark scale is, how it affects your plants, and the best ways to manage and prevent an infestation.

What is Crape Myrtle Bark Scale?

Crape myrtle bark scale (CMBS) is a sap-sucking insect that belongs to the Eriococcidae family. Native to Asia This invasive insect has been spreading across the United States, causing concern for gardeners, landscapers, and arborists alike. CMBS primarily infests crape myrtles but can also affect other plant species, such as persimmons and pomegranates.

Identification

Identifying CMBS early is crucial for effective management. Here are the key characteristics:

Appearance : Adult scales are small, about 2 mm long, and covered in a white or gray, waxy coating. They often appear as white, felt-like encrustations on the bark, branches, and twigs.
Eggs and Nymphs : Eggs are pink and hidden beneath the waxy coating. Nymphs, or crawlers, are tiny, pinkish-red, and mobile, spreading to new areas of the tree.
Sooty Mold : A black, sooty mold often develops on the honeydew excreted by the scales, covering leaves, stems, and even the trunk in black.

Impact on Crape Myrtles

CMBS can significantly impact the health and aesthetic value of crape myrtles:

Reduced Vigor : By feeding on the plant’s sap, CMBS weakens crape myrtles, reducing their overall vigor. This can lead to fewer blooms and slower growth.
Aesthetic Damage : The presence of scales and the black sooty mold they cause can make crape myrtles look unsightly, detracting from their ornamental value.
Increased Vulnerability : Stressed plants are more susceptible to other pests and diseases, compounding the impact of a CMBS infestation.

Managing Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

Managing CMBS requires a combination of cultural practices, biological controls, and, in some cases, chemical treatments.

1. Cultural Practices

Regular Monitoring : Regularly inspect your crape myrtles, especially during the growing season, to catch any signs of CMBS early.
Pruning and Disposal : Prune out heavily infested branches and dispose of them properly to reduce the scale population. Do not compost infested material, as it could spread the pest.
Maintaining Plant Health : Healthy plants are more resistant to pests, so ensure your crape myrtles receive adequate water, nutrients, and care.

2. Biological Control

Natural Predators : Encourage beneficial insects like lady beetles and parasitic wasps, which naturally prey on CMBS. Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that can harm these helpful predators.

3. Chemical Control

Insecticidal Soaps and Oils : These can be effective against the crawler stage of CMBS. Thorough coverage is essential, so apply these treatments during the growing season when crawlers are most active.
Systemic Insecticides : Products containing imidacloprid or dinotefuran can be applied as a soil drench or trunk injection. These treatments are absorbed by the plant and can provide long-term control. It’s important to follow label directions carefully and apply these treatments in late spring or early summer for best results.

Preventing Future Infestations

Preventing future infestations of CMBS involves being proactive:

Inspect New Plants : Before planting new crape myrtles or other susceptible species, carefully inspect them for signs of CMBS.
Quarantine : If you’re bringing new plants into your landscape, consider quarantining them for a period to ensure they are pest-free.
Community Awareness : CMBS can easily spread between plants and properties, so educating your neighbors and community about the signs of infestation can help protect everyone’s landscape.

Crape myrtle bark scale is a serious pest that requires prompt and effective management to protect your crape myrtles. By staying vigilant, practicing good cultural care, and employing appropriate biological and chemical controls, you can keep your crape myrtles healthy and beautiful. As with any pest, early detection and intervention are key to minimizing damage and ensuring the long-term health of your landscape.

If you suspect a CMBS infestation or need assistance with treatment, don’t hesitate to consult with a professional arborist or your local extension service. Together, we can preserve the beauty and health of our crape myrtles for years to come.

Knowing the difference between a tropic lean and falling tree

Thu, 01 Aug 2024 14:18:36 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Knowing the difference between a tropic lean and falling tree

Trees are remarkable organisms that continually adapt to their environment. Among the many fascinating behaviors they exhibit, tropic leaning and mechanical leaning are often misunderstood. As an arborist, it's essential to understand these differences to provide proper care and ensure the longevity and safety of trees.

Tropic Leaning Trees

Definition and Causes: Tropic leaning, also known as phototropism, is the growth response of a tree toward or away from light. Trees have a natural tendency to grow towards light sources, which is crucial for photosynthesis. In forests or densely populated areas, trees often compete for sunlight. This competition can cause trees to lean toward available light to maximize their energy intake.

Characteristics :

Gradual Curve: Tropic leaning trees often display a gradual curvature in their trunk as they grow toward the light. This curvature is typically uniform and smooth.
Healthy Structure: Despite the lean, the overall structure of the tree remains healthy. The roots are well-anchored, and the trunk does not exhibit signs of stress or damage.
Adaptive Growth: Branches and leaves on the shaded side of the tree will grow more vigorously to balance the tree’s exposure to light, resulting in an asymmetrical but healthy canopy.

Examples :

Trees on the edge of a forest may lean outward to capture more sunlight.
Urban trees growing next to tall buildings might lean away from the shadow cast by the structures.

Mechanically Leaning Trees

Definition and Causes: A mechanically leaning tree, on the other hand, is one that has developed a lean due to external physical forces. These forces can include wind, soil erosion, root damage, or improper planting. Unlike tropic leaning, mechanical leaning can pose significant risks to the tree’s stability, health, and the homes/properties .

Characteristics :

Sharp Angle: Mechanical leaning often results in a sharper angle at the base of the tree. The lean can be sudden and pronounced, indicating a shift in the tree’s balance.
Root Issues: There may be visible signs of root damage or upheaval on the side opposite to the lean. This can include exposed roots, soil displacement, or cracks in the ground.
Stress Indicators: Trees under mechanical stress may exhibit cracked or split trunks, reduced foliage, and dieback of branches. These signs indicate the tree is struggling to support its weight.

Examples :

Trees subjected to strong, persistent winds may develop a lean over time.
Improperly planted trees that have not established a strong root system can tilt as they grow.

Identifying and Addressing Leaning Trees

Inspection: To determine whether a tree is tropically or mechanically leaning, start with a thorough inspection. Look at the base of the tree for signs of root disturbance or soil displacement. Examine the trunk for any cracks, splits, or abnormal growth patterns. Assess the overall health of the tree, including leaf density and branch structure.

Characteristics of Structurally Leaning Trees:

Sudden Lean : The lean may develop suddenly, often after a storm, heavy winds, or other disturbances.
Uneven Growth : The lean may not be uniform; it could be more pronounced in certain parts of the tree.
Compromised Root System : Roots may be partially exposed, damaged, or show signs of decay, indicating that they are no longer providing adequate support.
Stress Indicators : The tree may exhibit signs of stress such as wilting leaves, sparse foliage, or dead branches.

Assessing the Lean

To determine whether a tree’s lean is due to natural tropic leaning or structural issues, consider the following steps:

Observe the Growth Pattern: A gradual, uniform lean towards a light source typically indicates phototropism. In contrast, an uneven or sudden lean suggests structural problems.
Inspect the Root System: Look for signs of root damage, soil erosion, or exposed roots. Healthy, well-anchored roots are common in tropic leaning trees, while damaged or exposed roots are a red flag for structurally leaning trees.
Check for Stress Signs: Evaluate the tree’s overall health. Signs of stress, such as wilting, sparse foliage, or dead branches, often accompany structural leaning.

Intervention:

Tropic Leaning Trees: Generally, these trees do not require intervention unless they pose a risk to structures or other plants. Pruning to balance the canopy and ensuring adequate space for growth can help manage their lean.
Mechanically Leaning Trees: These trees may need immediate attention. Options include bracing, cabling, or, in severe cases, removal to prevent potential hazards. Addressing the underlying cause, such as soil erosion or root damage, is crucial for the long-term stability of the tree.

Preventative Measures:

Proper Planting Techniques: Ensuring trees are planted correctly with adequate space and support helps prevent future leaning.
Regular Maintenance: Regular inspections and maintenance can catch early signs of mechanical leaning and address them before they become severe.
Windbreaks and Supports: In areas prone to strong winds, installing windbreaks or supports can help young trees establish a strong, upright growth pattern.

When to Call a Professional

If you suspect a tree is structurally compromised, it’s essential to consult with a professional arborist. A thorough assessment can determine the severity of the lean and recommend appropriate action, whether it be pruning, cabling, or in severe cases, removal. Ignoring a structurally leaning tree can lead to property damage or personal injury if the tree falls.

Understanding the difference between tropic leaning and structural leaning is crucial for proper tree care and management. While tropic leaning is a natural adaptation, mechanical leaning often indicates underlying issues that need addressing. As arborists, our goal is to ensure trees remain healthy, safe, and beautiful parts of our environment. By recognizing and responding appropriately to different types of leaning, we can help trees thrive for generations to come. By recognizing the signs and taking proactive measures, you can ensure that your trees continue to thrive and contribute to the beauty and environmental health of your landscape.

If your tree is leaning and would like a consultation, contact Eric Putnam BCMA today to preserve your landscape and protect your property/home.

The Dark Side of Tree Service: Price Gouging After Storms

Mon, 29 Jul 2024 13:52:43 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Dark Side of Tree Service: Price Gouging After Storms

Natural disasters bring out the best and worst in people. In the aftermath of major weather events, communities come together to support one another, showcasing the resilience and kindness that define humanity. However, this period of vulnerability also attracts unscrupulous individuals looking to exploit the situation for personal gain. One such issue is price gouging by tree service companies, which takes advantage of desperate homeowners in the wake of storms. This practice is not only unethical but often illegal.

Understanding Price Gouging

Price gouging refers to the act of increasing prices for goods or services to an unreasonable or unfair level, particularly during emergencies. For tree service companies, this can mean charging exorbitant fees for services like tree removal, pruning, and debris cleanup after a storm. Homeowners, already dealing with the stress and damage caused by the weather event, are left with little choice but to pay these inflated prices to ensure their properties are safe.

Price gouging exploits the vulnerability of the people seeking services, erodes their trust for seeking those services in the future, and leaves the people with few financial resources in danger.

Legal Ramifications

Price gouging is not only unethical; it is also illegal in many jurisdictions. Laws vary by state and country, but many places have specific regulations that prohibit price gouging during emergencies. These laws are designed to protect consumers from exploitation when they are most in need.

For example, in the United States, many states have enacted anti-price gouging statutes that go into effect during declared emergencies. These laws often include substantial fines and penalties for businesses found guilty of gouging. Homeowners should familiarize themselves with their local laws and report any suspected price gouging to the authorities.

How to Protect Yourself

Get Multiple Quotes : Before hiring a tree service company, get multiple quotes. This can help you identify if a company is trying to overcharge.
Check Credentials : Ensure the company is licensed, insured, and has good reviews. Reputable companies are less likely to engage in price gouging.
Understand Your Rights : Know the laws in your area regarding price gouging. Being informed can help you take appropriate action if you suspect unfair pricing.
Report Suspected Gouging : If you believe a company is engaging in price gouging, report it to your local consumer protection agency or attorney general's office. Your report can help prevent others from being exploited.

In times of crisis, the actions of a few can cast a shadow over the entire industry. Tree service companies play a vital role in helping communities recover after storms, but those that engage in price gouging undermine the trust and support that are essential in such times. By understanding the issue, knowing your rights, and taking steps to protect yourself, you can ensure that you receive fair and ethical service. Let's hold these companies accountable and work towards a more ethical and supportive community.

*if you believe you are a victim of price gouging, call this number and report it now. Not only for your sake but for your community’s as well. (Texas attorney generals consumer protection hotline: 1(800) 621-0508 or email:Consumeremergancy@oag.texas.gov)

Fruit Trees in the City: Growing Your Own Urban Orchard

Fri, 19 Jul 2024 13:31:52 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Fruit Trees in the City: Growing Your Own Urban Orchard

Living in a city doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the joys of homegrown fruit. Urban orchards are becoming increasingly popular as people discover the benefits of growing fruit trees in their own backyards, patios, and even balconies. Not only do fruit trees provide delicious, fresh produce, but they also enhance urban landscapes, improve air quality, and support local biodiversity. Here’s how you can start your own urban orchard and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Choosing the Right Fruit Trees

The first step to creating an urban orchard is selecting the right fruit trees. Consider the following factors:

Climate : Choose fruit trees that are well-suited to your local climate. Citrus trees, for example, thrive in warmer regions, while apple and pear trees can tolerate cooler climates.
Space : Assess the space you have available. Dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties are ideal for small gardens or container growing.
Sunlight : Most fruit trees need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Ensure your chosen location gets adequate light.
Soil : Check your soil type and pH level. Most fruit trees prefer well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH.

Best Fruit Trees for Urban Orchards

Here are some excellent options for urban environments:

Apple Trees : Dwarf apple trees are perfect for small spaces and can even be grown in large pots. Varieties like ‘Honeycrisp’ and ‘Gala’ are popular choices.
Citrus Trees : Lemon, lime, and orange trees do well in containers and can be brought indoors during colder months.
Fig Trees : Figs are adaptable and can be grown in containers. They thrive in warm, sunny spots.
Cherry Trees : Dwarf cherry trees can add beauty and delicious fruit to your urban orchard. Varieties like ‘Stella’ are self-pollinating and compact.
Peach Trees : Look for dwarf varieties that are suitable for pots or small garden spaces. Peaches need full sun and well-draining soil.

Planting and Care Tips

Once you’ve chosen your fruit trees, follow these tips for successful planting and care:

Planting : When planting in the ground, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but not deeper. For container planting, choose a pot that is at least 18-24 inches in diameter. Ensure good drainage.
Watering : Newly planted trees need regular watering until established. After that, water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
Pruning : Prune your trees to remove dead or diseased wood and to maintain a manageable size. Proper pruning also improves air circulation and sunlight penetration.
Fertilizing : Use a balanced fertilizer to provide essential nutrients. Follow the recommended application rates for your specific fruit trees.
Pest and Disease Management : Monitor your trees for signs of pests and diseases. Use organic or chemical controls as needed to keep your orchard healthy.

Benefits of an Urban Orchard

Growing fruit trees in the city offers numerous benefits:

Fresh Produce : Enjoy the taste of freshly picked fruit straight from your own trees.
Aesthetic Appeal : Fruit trees add beauty and greenery to urban landscapes.
Environmental Impact : Trees improve air quality, reduce the urban heat island effect, and support local wildlife.
Community Engagement : Urban orchards can foster community spirit by involving neighbors in planting and harvesting.
Educational Opportunities : An urban orchard can be a living classroom for children and adults alike, teaching about botany, ecology, and sustainable living.

Starting an urban orchard is a rewarding and sustainable way to enjoy fresh fruit while contributing to a greener city environment. With the right selection of trees and proper care, you can transform your urban space into a thriving, productive orchard. So why not take the plunge and plant a fruit tree today? Your taste buds and your community will thank you.

The Role of Trees in Carbon Sequestration

Thu, 11 Jul 2024 13:10:20 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Role of Trees in Carbon Sequestration

I have a deep appreciation for the many ways trees benefit our environment. One of their most significant contributions is their ability to sequester carbon dioxide (CO₂), a major greenhouse gas responsible for climate. In this blog post, I’ll delve into what carbon sequestration is, how trees contribute to it, and why it’s vital for our planet’s health.

What is Carbon Sequestration?

Carbon sequestration refers to the process of capturing and storing atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2). This can occur naturally, through processes such as photosynthesis in trees and other plants, or artificially, through technological solutions. By removing CO2 from the atmosphere and storing it, carbon sequestration helps mitigate the greenhouse effect and global warming.

How Do Trees Sequester Carbon?

Trees sequester carbon through photosynthesis, the process by which they convert CO2 and sunlight into energy (glucose) and oxygen and store it in their roots, trunk, and foliage. Here’s a simplified breakdown of how it works:

Photosynthesis : Trees absorb CO₂ from the air through small openings in their leaves called stomata. Using sunlight, trees convert CO₂ and water into glucose (a form of sugar) and oxygen through the process of photosynthesis. The glucose is used for growth and energy, while the oxygen is released back into the atmosphere.
Biomass Accumulation : The carbon absorbed by trees is stored in various parts of the tree. As trees grow, they accumulate more biomass, thus storing more carbon. A single mature tree can absorb and store significant amounts of carbon over its lifetime.
Soil Carbon Storage : Trees also contribute to carbon storage in the soil. Dead leaves, branches, and roots decompose and become part of the soil organic matter. Additionally, tree roots interact with soil microbes, enhancing soil structure and increasing its ability to store carbon.

A single mature tree can absorb as much as 48 pounds of CO2 per year. Over its lifetime, this can add up to several tons of carbon dioxide sequestered and kept out of the atmosphere.

Why is Carbon Sequestration Vital?

Climate Regulation : By absorbing CO₂ from the atmosphere, trees help reduce the overall concentration of greenhouse gases. This, in turn, helps mitigate the effects of climate change, such as global warming and extreme weather events.
Improving Air Quality : Trees not only sequester carbon but also filter pollutants from the air, improving overall air quality.
Biodiversity : Forests and trees provide habitat for a wide range of species. By promoting tree growth and forest conservation, we also protect biodiversity, which is essential for ecosystem resilience and human well-being.
Enhancing Soil Health : Trees improve soil health by preventing erosion, enhancing water retention, and promoting nutrient cycling. Healthy soils are more productive and better able to support diverse plant and animal life.
Human Well-being : Trees contribute to human health and well-being by providing clean air, reducing heat in urban areas, and offering recreational spaces.

Maximizing the Role of Trees in Carbon Sequestration

To maximize the benefits of trees in carbon sequestration, it’s important to consider several factors:

Tree Species Selection : Different species sequester carbon at different rates. Fast-growing trees, such as poplars and willows, can sequester carbon quickly, while long-lived, slow-growing species like oaks and pines sequester carbon over a longer period.
Forest Management : Sustainable forest management practices, such as selective logging and reforestation, ensure that forests remain healthy and continue to sequester carbon efficiently.
Urban Tree Planting : Planting trees in urban areas can significantly contribute to carbon sequestration while also providing shade, reducing heat islands, and improving the quality of life for residents.
Reforestation and Afforestation : Reforesting degraded lands and afforesting areas that were not previously forested can significantly increase carbon sequestration. These efforts should prioritize diverse, multi-species plantings to enhance ecosystem health.
Protecting Existing Forests : Preventing deforestation and promoting conservation efforts are crucial for maintaining the carbon sequestration potential of existing forests.

Trees are invaluable allies in our fight against climate change. By understanding and enhancing their role in carbon sequestration, we can make significant strides toward a more sustainable and healthier planet. I encourage everyone to support tree planting initiatives, practice sustainable tree care, and advocate for policies that protect our forests. Together, we can ensure that trees continue to play their essential role in carbon sequestration and environmental stewardship.

Herbicide injury in trees

Fri, 05 Jul 2024 12:53:31 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Herbicide injury in trees

In the tree industry, we are constantly coming across trees who have fallen victim to herbicide damage. In fact, herbicide damage is the most common ailment that we come across. Herbicides, while effective for weed control, can inadvertently harm trees if not applied or managed correctly. Understanding how herbicides affect trees and recognizing the signs of damage is crucial for effective tree care and preservation efforts.

How Herbicides Affect Trees

Herbicides, also known as weed-killer, are chemically replicated allelopathic hormones used in yards to manipulate or control undesirable weeds and plants. There are two kinds of herbicides selective and non-selective (or “total weed killers”). Selective herbicides target specific plant or vegetation groups, while non-selective herbicides kill all plants indiscriminately.

The potential effects of herbicides are strongly influenced by their toxic mode of action and their method of application. Herbicides act by inhibiting cell division, photosynthesis or amino acid production or by mimicking natural plant growth hormones, causing deformities and rendering the affected plants unviable and unable to replicate. In your yard, herbicides alter the PH of the surrounding soils and damage the essential microbial flora. They can enter trees through various pathways:

Root Uptake: Herbicides applied to the soil can be absorbed by a tree's roots and transported throughout the tree via the vascular system.
Foliage Contact: Sprayed herbicides are absorbed directly into the exposed tissues, such as bark and foliage, and translocated throughout the tree.

Signs of Herbicide Damage

Recognizing herbicide damage early is crucial for mitigating its effects. Symptoms may vary depending on the herbicide type, concentration, tree species, and environmental conditions, but common signs include:

Leaf Abnormalities: leaf cupping, curling, twisting, puckering, or strapping.
Discolored foliage: yellow, white, reddish, purplish, or abnormally light or dark green leaves.
Leaf Drop: Premature leaf drop, especially outside of the tree's normal shedding season.
Stunted Growth: Reduced growth or dieback of shoots and branches.
Bark Damage: Bark splitting, cracking, or peeling.
General Decline: Overall decline in tree health, including reduced vigor and greator susceptibility to pests and diseases.

**Damage from weather, insects, and diseases can be confused with herbicide damage. So its important to consult with a certified arborist to properly identify and diagnose the issue. There is herbicide injury look-alike symptoms that match every disease/disorder.

Preventative Measures

Preventing herbicide damage starts with careful application and adherence to best practices:

Read The Labels: It is important that you follow herbicide label instructions exactly as outlined, especially those that help limit drift, vaporization, and runoff. Look for precautionary statements regarding trees.
Choose The Right Location: Be aware of surrounding properties with sensitive vegetation including parks, gardens, windbreaks, landscape nurseries, orchards, vineyards, organic farms, native woodlands, and other natural areas.
Application Timing: Most damage occurs in spring when trees and other plants are leafing out with susceptible new growth. So try to shift weed control to fall when many weeds are more easily controlled and damage to trees is reduced. Monitor temperature, wind speed, and wind direction, avoid spraying on warm, windy days.
Buffer Zones: It’s crucial that you maintain buffer zones between treated areas and trees to minimize accidental exposure. Keep in mind the trees root system expands well beyond the canopy edge.
Alternative Methods: Consider alternative weed control methods, such as mulching, mowing often, or hand weeding.

Herbicide damage to trees can be a serious issue, but with proper understanding, early detection, and effective management strategies, you can significantly improve the chances of tree recovery. By staying informed and proactive, we can better protect our urban and natural tree populations from unintended harm.

Remember, every tree is unique, and timely intervention can make a significant difference in preserving their health and beauty for years to come.

Resources I found useful during my research:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbicide

https://nfs.unl.edu/publications/herbicide-damage-trees

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/herbicide-damage-trees-and-shrubs/

What To Do With Dead Trees In Your Landscape

Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:27:42 GMT

Liriopes Muse: What To Do With Dead Trees In Your Landscape

Disclaimer:

It is important to note that not all trees make good candidates to be recycled and reused. If the tree has succumbed to a pest infestation of any kind, the following ideas are not applicable. Borers and other pests leave trees brittle, hollow, and dangerous and pose a risk to the other trees and shrubs in your yard. In this case, it would be best to have the full tree cut down and removed from your property.

If your tree has succumbed to a disease or fungus of some kind, it is important to consult with an arborist to make sure it is safe to use its wood in your landscape. Because many diseases and fungal infections are highly contagious and can innoculate the healthy trees and shrubs in your yard. Fungal infections can be especially dangerous as they can remain in your landscape for 25-50 years preventing you from reestablishing a healthy landscape.

Get Creative!

The possibilities are endless when it comes to crafting and reusing parts of a tree! From DIY projects that take just a few hours to projects that require professional level skills or simply gathering dropped leaves and sticks to create something simple. Getting creative can give your old tree a new life and not only is a great way to reuse it, but is a free way to spruce up your yard!

The following are some examples of crafts that you can make with your tree:

- Hollow out stumps for planters

- Make wood slice coasters

- Create wood yard furniture

- Chisel out a sculpture

- Carve cutting boards

- Press leaves in a picture frame

- Paint leaves or wood slices

For more crafty inspiration I recommend browsing Pinterest!

Repurpose it!

Not the crafty type? Repurposing your dead tree is a good way to give it a second life!

- Firewood is one great way that you can repurpose the trees wood and save a few dollars. Just ask the tree crew to leave a few logs behind and split them yourself. (to learn more about splitting firewood, see here )

- With the help of a lumber milling company, you can mill the wood into your very own lumber!

- Grinding up the extra wood into chips or mulch for your landscaping is another excellent way to repurpose your tree. When the stump of your tree is being ground you can ask the tree crew to leave the wood chips behind. This said, not all trees make good candidates for mulching. If your tree has succumbed to a pest infestation, disease, or dangerous fungi it would be best to not keep the chips as they can spread and innoculate the other trees and shrubs in your yard.

- Using branches to line raised garden beds (in replacement of bricks) is a unique way to spruce up your yardscape.

Remove it!

Removal is always a good option if you do not have the space or use for the excess wood or if it has a pest infestation, disease, or dangerous fungal infection. For tree death diagnosis and tree removal, reach out to an arborist near you!

Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. is here to help, we have arborists highly knowledgeable and experienced in diagnosis and tree removal. Give us a call today to schedule a consultation!

Liriope’s Muse Myths: Storm pruning is beneficial and necessary for your trees for survivability during this hurricane season.

Fri, 21 Jun 2024 17:45:13 GMT

Liriope’s Muse Myths: Storm pruning is beneficial and necessary for your trees for survivability during this hurricane season.

Much like humans, trees have a natural balance called mass damping. When this balance is disrupted it can weaken the structure of the tree and can stress it out. Imagine having a foot or even one of your arms chopped off and see how well you do in a storm. You’d have to relearn how to balance yourself and the chances are you may fall or break another “limb” in the process.

Storm pruning is a popular technique used by many arborists; however, it can be detrimental to the structural integrity and health of the tree. When you remove large structural limbs it interferes with the trees natural process of balancing called mass damping. Mass damping is the harmonic absorption and distribution of force in a tree to reduce the sway of the trunk. (Whether it be from natural forces like earthquakes and weather or unnatural forces like a car crashing into it)

In nature trees are left alone and are naturally adapted to face storms, however current methods of managing urban trees, such as pruning and assessing mechanical strength, are mainly based on visual assessment or the previous experience of people such as trained arborists. In other words old practices, not backed by science, are passed on from one person in the industry to another. This coupled with strict HOA regulations without the tree’s health in mind, are the reason for the weakness of urban trees. They are not allowed to grow naturally as they are constantly pruned leading to structural instability and watershoots. So the storm pruning practice is just adding insult to injury for the already stressed trees by disrupting their mass damping rhythm and further weakening their overall structural stability.

When trees are over pruned they are forced to adapt to the new force loads that they are experiencing by growing new limbs in replacement of the old ones to distribute and relieve the stress. However these limbs do not grow back as strong and large as the previous ones, rather they grow back thinner and weaker. Imagine this like a river, if you cut off the tributaries of a river it’ll make the river shorter and it is forced to repave smaller distributaries (or arms) this is called adaptive growth. Adaptive growth in trees can be observed in a number of ways, for example in performing a cross section of the tree's limbs you will notice larger rings on the limbs experiencing the greatest force load and thinner on the limbs that are experiencing less. Another sign of this growth is the buttressing or thickening of a trunk or limb at the base to provide localized strength to a location experiencing a high load.

To learn more about the mass damping of trees and their adaptive growth patterns I highly recommend this article: https://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=91&Type=2#:~:text=Mass%20damping%20is%20a%20term,(Abe%20and%20Fujino%201994) .

That being said, there are some instances where pruning before a storm may be necessary for example if your tree has large dead or broken limbs as they can become safety hazards. It is especially risky if they are overhanging your home, driveway, or other property that can pose a direct danger to you. In this case, it would be like shaving your hair off, a big change but not one that affects your balance.

Interestingly, civil engineers have created an equation to replicate the natural mass damping ability of trees in structures all around the world to help them withstand dangerous oscillations caused by major weather events and earthquakes. (see below)

Sources:

https://bsapubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.3732/ajb.93.10.1522

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/fig2_270822624

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Model-of-a-tree-showing-the-primary-oscillating-mass-of-the-trunk-and-the-attached_fig1_270822624

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21642099/

The Texas Pecan Tree: A Symbol of Strength and Sustainability

Fri, 31 May 2024 21:25:49 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Texas Pecan Tree: A Symbol of Strength and Sustainability

As aISA Board Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam is passionate about sharing his knowledge and insights into the trees that define our landscapes and enrich our lives. One such tree is the Texas pecan tree (Carya illinoinensis), an iconic species with deep roots in Texas's history, culture, and economy. This blog explores the botanical characteristics, ecological significance, and best practices for the care and maintenance of this magnificent tree.

The Botanical Marvel of the Texas Pecan

The Texas pecan tree is a member of the hickory family (Juglandaceae) and stands out for its impressive size and longevity. These trees can reach heights of 145 feet and can live for more than 300 years. They boast broad canopies that provide ample shade, making them a popular choice for landscaping.

The leaves of the pecan tree are pinnately compound, consisting of 9 to 17 leaflets that create a lush, green canopy. The tree produces oblong nuts encased in a thick husk, which splits open upon maturity to reveal the edible pecan, celebrated for its rich flavor and nutritional value.

Ecological Significance of Pecan Trees

Pecan trees play a crucial role in their ecosystems. They provide food and habitat for a variety of wildlife, including squirrels, deer, and numerous bird species. Their extensive root systems help prevent soil erosion, improve water infiltration, and contribute to soil health. Additionally, pecan trees sequester carbon dioxide, helping mitigate the impacts of climate change.

Cultural and Economic Impact

The pecan tree is not just a natural marvel; it also holds significant cultural and economic value in Texas. Designated as the state tree, the pecan is a symbol of endurance and prosperity. Pecans are a major agricultural product in Texas, with the state being one of the largest producers in the World. The nuts are integral to many culinary traditions, from holiday pies to savory dishes, and are also a valuable export.

The Texas pecan tree is a testament to nature’s resilience and bounty. As certified arborists, our mission is to ensure these trees continue to thrive through expert care and sustainable practices. By following best practices in planting, maintenance, and management, we can preserve the health and productivity of pecan trees, securing their place in our landscapes and lives for generations to come.

For more information on caring for your Texas pecan trees or to schedule a consultation, contact our team at Eric Putnam BCMA, inc. Together, we can nurture the beauty and sustainability of our natural environment.

Magnolia Grandiflora: An Icon of Southern Elegance and Resilience

Fri, 17 May 2024 14:02:33 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Magnolia Grandiflora: An Icon of Southern Elegance and Resilience

The Magnolia Grandiflora, commonly known as the Southern Magnolia, stands as a symbol of timeless elegance and resilience in the landscape of the American South. Revered for its striking foliage, fragrant blooms, and historical significance, this majestic tree holds a special place in the hearts of many and continues to captivate enthusiasts and arborists alike.

Originating from the southeastern United States, the Magnolia Grandiflora is characterized by its large, glossy evergreen leaves and magnificent creamy-white flowers. These blossoms, often measuring up to ten inches in diameter, exude a sweet, lemony fragrance that fills the air and attracts pollinators, including bees and butterflies, to its bountiful nectar. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the Magnolia Grandiflora boasts a rich history deeply intertwined with Southern culture and heritage. Revered by indigenous peoples for its medicinal properties, the tree later became a cherished emblem of Southern hospitality and grandeur during the antebellum period. Its lustrous foliage and fragrant blooms adorned sprawling plantation estates, serving as a testament to the opulence and refinement of the era.

Despite its association with the past, the Magnolia Grandiflora remains a vital component of contemporary landscapes, admired for its adaptability and resilience. Thriving in a variety of soil types and climates, this versatile tree is well-suited to urban environments, where it provides shade, beauty, and habitat for wildlife. Furthermore, its evergreen foliage offers year-round interest, ensuring a steady presence in the landscape regardless of the season.

From a botanical perspective, the Magnolia Grandiflora belongs to the Magnoliaceae family, which dates back millions of years to the Cretaceous period. Fossil records indicate that magnolias once flourished across the globe, evolving alongside dinosaurs and surviving the cataclysmic events that led to their extinction. Today, the Magnolia Grandiflora stands as a living relic of Earth's ancient past, a testament to the enduring power of nature and the resilience of life itself. In addition to its cultural and botanical significance, the Magnolia Grandiflora plays a crucial ecological role within its native habitat. Its dense canopy provides shelter and nesting sites for birds, while its flowers attract a diverse array of pollinators essential for ecosystem health. Furthermore, the tree's deep roots help prevent soil erosion and stabilize riverbanks, making it a valuable asset in riparian zones and coastal landscapes.

Despite its many virtues, the Magnolia Grandiflora is not without its challenges. Like all living organisms, it is susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stressors, including drought and pollution. In urban areas, it may face additional pressures such as compacted soil and restricted root space. However, with proper care and maintenance, including regular watering, mulching, and pruning, the Magnolia Grandiflora can thrive and continue to grace landscapes with its timeless beauty for generations to come.

In conclusion, the Magnolia Grandiflora stands as a botanical masterpiece, cherished for its beauty, resilience, and cultural significance. From its humble origins in the American South to its widespread popularity in landscapes worldwide, this iconic tree continues to inspire awe and admiration, serving as a living testament to the enduring power of nature's creations. As stewards of the environment, it is our responsibility to preserve and protect this magnificent species, ensuring that future generations may continue to marvel at its splendor for years to come.

Are trees immortal?

Fri, 10 May 2024 13:16:27 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Are trees immortal?

Their remarkable ability to infinitely propagate and reproduce aside, the jury of Scientists are still out on this question of immortality. According to Franco Brondi, an ecoclimotoligist and tree ring scientist for the University of Nevada, Reno “trees can indeed live indefinitely, but this does not happen, because eventually an external agent, biotic or abiotic [a living thing or a nonliving one such as a physical condition], ends up killing them.”

Tree of Life and Immortality by Judith Shaw

All trees die from some form of environmental, external, or physical factor such as, extreme weather events, pests and animals, diseases and pathogens, and various human activities like logging, land clearing, bad pruning techniques, and pollution. NOT from old age. In fact, researchers have found little to no definitive genetic evidence of aging in even the oldest of a trees meristem (or the cell generating tissue) which further proves the point that trees cannot die of old age.

The following are some of the longest living trees recorded and the reason for their deaths:

Pinus longaeva

Promethius is not pictured as it is just a mere stump. These are Great Bristlecone Pines located in Wheeler Park, Nevada.

Picture Credits: Stephen Ingram

Prometheus, the oldest recorded living tree to date, was a great bristlecone pine located in Wheeler Peak, Nevada. This tree was believed to be at least 4,900 years old before it was heinously cut down in 1964 by geographer and dendrochronologist, Donald R. Currey.

Currey was conducting a study on ice age glaciology in the moraines of Wheeler Peak. With the permission of the United States Forest Service, he was taking core samples from numerous Bristle cone pines when he came upon Prometheus. During the core extraction his borer tool became stuck and broke off in the tree and curry believed the best solution was to cut this historical tree down. So with the permission of the United States Forrest Service that is what he did.

It wasn’t until Scientist Donald R. Currey cut down the tree that he realized the gravity of what he had done. Upon counting the rings of the pine he realized it was the oldest living tree (and thing) known to man, the cross section contained a whooping 4,862 rings. However due to the harsh conditions of Wheeler Peak, Nevada, it is likely that a growth ring was not formed every year leading scientists to hypothesize Promethius to be at least 4,900 years old. The oldest tree ever recorded to date.

To learn more about the story of the great Promethius, check out these articles:

https://www.nps.gov/grba/learn/historyculture/the-prometheus-story.htm#:~:text=This%20tree%20was%20known%20by,the%20borer%20was%20too%20short

Sequoiadendron giganteum

Pictures above are the gian sequoia trees located in the Giant Forest of Sequoia National Park, California.

The giant sequoia tree, or more commonly known as the redwood tree, is the 3 ^rd longest-living tree species in the world with the mean age being 1,600 and the oldest living one to date being just over 3,200 years old. The President, located in the Giant Forest of Sequoia National Park, California is believed to be at least 3,266 years old.

Weakened by the strain of their own towering heights, drought, and exposure to wildfires, these towering redwoods are especially susceptible to bark borer infestations. The native bark beetle belonging to the genus, phloeosinus, is their biggest threat and has been responsible for killing over 6,000 sequoias since 2012 alone and there are only 80,000 giant sequoias believed to be remaining in their native regions in California.

Lazarus, “a sequoia tree that has lived through over 2,000 years of fires, droughts, wet years, dry years, hot years, cold years” was one unfortunate tree to have perished due to the rapidly spreading bark borer pandemic. This tree has been around longer than America, longer than Europeans have been in this country. It has seen things we could never fathom only for it to perish at the hands of a small beetle. It is for reasons such as this that we may never see how old a sequoia may truly become.

Read these articles to learn more about the devastating impacts that these borers have on the historic redwoods of California:

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/jan/18/this-is-not-how-sequoias-die-its-supposed-to-stand-for-another-500-years-aoe

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/jan/18/beetles-and-fire-kill-dozens-of-california-indestructible-giant-sequoia-trees-aoe

Note how these trees did not die naturally or from “old age” there is always some form of external factor at play.

So, are trees really immortal? We don’t yet have the answer to this age old question and the chances are we won’t be around long enough to find out, but there has not been any definitive evidence pointing towards no.

Personally, I like to believe that trees are immortal, not in the sense that they cannot die but that they could live forever in a perfect world free of humans, pests, and all environmental factors. But unfortunately, in this lifetime we will never truly know.

The Healing Hands of Nature: How Certified Arborists Serve as Tree Doctors

Thu, 02 May 2024 12:42:14 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Healing Hands of Nature: How Certified Arborists Serve as Tree Doctors

Growing up I have always been surrounded by the medical field and arboriculture industry. With my father, Eric Putnam, being a Master Arborist and my mother having been a paramedic and now an emergency room nurse. Both are very passionate about their careers and have shared that love with me, hence I have joined the industry and work with my father now. Sharing that same love of trees and spreading it through my blogging platform.

It is through this exposure that I have noticed many similarities between the arboriculture industry and the medical field leading to the conclusion:

A certified arborist is a doctor of sorts, a tree doctor.

In the intricate tapestry of life, both doctors and certified arborists play pivotal roles in nurturing and preserving the health and well-being of living organisms. While their domains may seem worlds apart—one focused on human health and the other on the vitality of trees—upon closer examination, striking parallels emerge, revealing the shared essence of their professions.

Both doctors and certified arborists are custodians of life, entrusted with the responsibility of diagnosing ailments and prescribing remedies to restore balance and vitality. Just as a doctor carefully examines a patient's symptoms to identify the root cause of illness, a certified arborist conducts thorough assessments of trees, studying their foliage, bark, and root systems to detect signs of disease, pest infestation, or structural weakness. Through keen observation and diagnostic acumen, both professions seek to alleviate suffering and promote healing. And like doctors, certified arborists too perform many kinds of procedures such as: removing dead wood, performing surgery on girdling roots, and root excavations.

Equally, doctors and certified arborists adhere to principles of evidence-based practice and continuous learning, constantly seeking to expand their knowledge and refine their skills. Just as medical science evolves with advancements in technology and research, arboriculture embraces innovative techniques and sustainable practices to optimize tree health and longevity. Whether it's mastering new surgical procedures or implementing cutting-edge tree care strategies, both professions are committed to staying abreast of the latest developments in their fields to deliver the highest quality care to their patients and clients.

Finally and most admirably, both doctors and certified arborists embody qualities of empathy, compassion, and respect for life. Beyond their technical expertise, they understand the profound impact of their work on individuals, families, and communities. Whether comforting a patient in pain or advocating for the preservation of an ancient tree, both professions recognize the intrinsic value of life and the importance of fostering connections with the natural world.

In essence, the similarities between a doctor and a certified arborist extend far beyond the surface, transcending the boundaries of their respective disciplines to encompass a shared commitment to healing, growth, and stewardship. As guardians of health and champions of nature, they stand as beacons of hope and resilience in a world brimming with vitality and possibility. Through their tireless dedication and unwavering compassion, they remind us of the profound interconnectedness of all living beings and the profound power of healing that lies within each of us.

Phytophthora: The Plant Destroying Pathogen

Mon, 29 Apr 2024 12:11:39 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Phytophthora: The Plant Destroying Pathogen

Phytophthora is a root rot disease that plagues plants of all kinds but is most commonly identified in fruit and nut trees, vegetable crops, forest trees, and especially nursery plants. Infecting all parts of living plant tissue including roots, stems, crowns, leaves, fruits, and vines. This pathogen is found in the genus of plant-damaging oomycetes (water molds), whose member species are capable of causing immense economic losses of plants and trees worldwide. The genus was first discovered by Heinrich Anton De Bary, A German botanist and microbiologist, in 1875. Since this finding, approximately 210 species of phytophthora have been identified and 100-500 are believed to be still undiscovered.

The pathogen derives its name from the Greek words, “Phyton” meaning plant, and “Phthora” meaning destruction, coining it the very fitting name of Plant Destroyer as it kills its host starting from the roots and growing upward through the tree or plant.

This picture shows the blackening of bark around the base of a tree caused by Phytophthora. This image was takin by Thomas Burr of Cornell Univ.

Phytophthora though resemblant of fungi, are more closely related to aquatic microorganisms, such as diatoms and brown algae as they need wet soil conditions to survive and produce spores. These spores (also known as Zoospores) travel through saturated soils to locate new hosts. Once a new host is located, the disease starts by attacking the roots of the plant by creating cyst like build-ups of spores. As the spores reproduce, the cysts grow and form germ tubes or appressoriums that can breech the cuticle or stomata of a plant. This tuber ingress only typically occurs at the site of a wound, bud, or natural opening of a plant.

Once inside of the host, they begin attacking each individual cell. Their intercellular hyphae insert a haustorium into the living hosts cell wall where they extract water and nutrients, continue to reproduce, and spread. These pathogens make it impossible for the plant to take up sufficient water and nutrients ultimately choking it out.

What can be done to control the spread of phytophthora?

Unfortunately at this time there is no known cure for phytophthora once a plant has been inoculated, only mitigation practices such as providing biostimulants to boost the trees health so that they can naturally defend themselves by compartmentalization (CODIT) can be used to keep the internal spread at bay. At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we use humic acid and molasses to feed the trees natural microbiome of healthy aerobic fungi. These fungi, if thriving, can act as natural defenders to the anerobic phytophthora using their allelopathic chemicals. Using fungicides to treat phytophthora should be avoided at all costs as the fungicides kill all fungi, the good and bad. Killing of a trees thriving microbiome can cause stress and the trees natural defenses to weaken allowing the infection to further spread and almost surely kill the tree.

However, the best way to control phytophthora is to prevent the transfer of infested soils, water, or plant materials(including dirty mulch) from coming into contact with other healthy plants.

The following are ways you can help prevent the spread of phytophthora in your yard:

- Avoid soil compaction of any kind as poorly draining and anerobic soil conditions make for the perfect breeding grounds.

- Ensure your yard has proper drainage to avoid oversaturation by implementing raised garden beds or install shallow trenches/swale in areas you notice water gathering. (So long as they are not causing significant root damage to your tree.)

- Practice sanitary gardening practices, making sure your equipment is clean and sanitized between plants is a big step in preventing the spread.

- Choose trees known for their resilience to Phytophthora and root rot.

- Avoid using recycled mulch or soils as they can unknowingly carry the pathogen.

- Inspect any tree you may buy from a nursery for signs of phytophthora to prevent the introduction of it into your garden.

Once introduced to your garden this pathogen is very difficult to manage, so focus on prevention and remember early detection can save your tree. If you notice any symptoms or believe your tree may have been exposed it is imperative that you contact your local certified arborist to begin a treatment plan best suited for your case.

These are close-up images taken of trees inoculated with the root rot disease (phytophthora). The first image shows a bleeding kanker and the second image shows the blackening of the bark of the tree.

What does Phytophthora look like?

Phytophthora is a microscopic organism that is so small it cannot be seen by the naked eye. The only visible sign of its presence is the sickness or death of the plants it invades. The first signs of phytophthora to look out for include yellowing and dulling of the foliage, wilting leaves, sparse foliage, and twig dieback. In more serious cases, the pathogen presents itself in the form of bleeding cankers, blackening of the trees bark (especially around the base and open wounds), mass root and shoot dieback, and large branch dieback. Depending on environmental factors and the tree or shrubs resilience to the rot, Phytophthora can kill a tree within a few months to just a few short years.

Articles I found useful during my research:

https://www.landscape.sa.gov.au/ki/land-and-farming/pest-management/managing-pc

https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/phytophthora#:~:text=Phytophthora%20has%20swimming%20spores%20known,mating%20types%20of%20Phytophthora%20capsici.

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html

Tips For Summer: Keeping Your Trees Thriving in the Texas Heat

Tue, 23 Apr 2024 12:49:19 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Tips For Summer: Keeping Your Trees Thriving in the Texas Heat

The dry and hot conditions of Houston’s summers are hard for even the most resilient of trees to survive, and they are only getting hotter. The following are 7 tips compiled by our Board Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam, that can help ensure your beloved trees stay healthy and thriving during Houston’s hot summer seasons, ensuring they continue to beautify your landscape for years to come!

1. Proper Watering/Irrigation: It is essential that your trees are receiving an adequate amount of water, especially during hot and dry periods. Unwatered soil not only can dry out the tree but it can cause the surrounding soils to become complex and compact, making nutrient and water absorption difficult. During these periods, deep waterings are key as they allow the moisture to penetrate the soil and reach the roots.

Eric recommends installing a simple timed irrigation system in your yard to ensure your trees are getting the water they need, when they need, without the hassle of having to stand out in the heat yourself. He also advises that you water your trees in the early morning and late in the evening to minimize evaporation. To learn more about how you can properly irrigate your yard this summer season, check out this article .

2. Light Trimmings: Removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches from your trees can promote healthy growth and reduce stress. The last thing you want to do in the summer is cause undue stress to your tree, so Eric recommends that you keep any tree trimming/pruning to a minimum. Making large or improper pruning cuts, especially during the summer, can cause great harm to your tree and even lead to its premature death.

3. Fertilization/Biostimulant Treatments: Consider fertilizing your trees in the early summer to provide them with the essential nutrients they need to promote growth and development. Biostimulants can be especially helpful to feed the surely dwindling microbiome.

Interested in a biostimulant? Contact us now !

4. Pest Prevention and Mitigation: Pests run rampant during the summer months, so it is important you regularly monitor your trees for any signs of borer beetles, scale, mites, aphids, worms, and spider mites and take the appropriate measures necessary to control any infestations. Summer is especially stressful on your trees, and stressed trees are highly susceptible to pest infestations, so if you suspect your tree may have pests you need to contact your local ISA Certified Arborist as they will be able to determine the proper treatment threshold and treatment plan best suited for your trees infestation. (Not all pest invasions need intervention)

5. Avoiding Unnecessary Soil Compaction: It is important to minimize foot traffic and the use of heavy machinery around the root zone of your trees to prevent any unnecessary soil compaction, as it can restrict the root growth and nutrient uptake which can in turn stress the tree.

Eric recommends, if at all possible, putting any unnecessary construction off until the cooler months as this can reduce any extra stress. However, he understands that not all construction is avoidable, so he advises installing a barrier or adding a layer of mulch around the critical root zone to minimize any compaction or severing of essential roots. To learn more about tree care during construction check out our blog here .

6. Proper Mulching: Mulching when done properly can be greatly beneficial to your tree. It can preserve the soils moisture and prevent evaporation, regulate the soils temperature, limit the growth of unwanted weeds, protect the soil by reducing erosion and soil compaction, and can provide the soil with important nutrients.

Put briefly, when mulching your tree you should begin by uprooting any unwanted weeds and apply a thin layer of mulch around the base of the tree spanning a minimum of 3 feet (or at least half the distance of the trees canopy) and a depth no greater than 3 inches. It is essential that the mulch does not directly touch the trunk (or base) of the tree and the mound should take on a donut-like shape rather than a mountain or volcano.

For a more in-depth explanation of the importance of proper mulching and how to accurately apply mulch to your trees without causing harm, check out this blog !

7. Practicing Proper Lawn Care: Be mindful of lawn maintenance activities such as applying herbicides, weed trimming and mowing, ground leveling, and sod installation, as these activities can damage the trees roots if done too close to the tree. (Consider leaving a buffer zone around your trees and avoid compacting the soil in their critical root zone)

Herbicides, while effective in controlling unwanted vegetation, can lead to systemic toxicity and pose significant health risks to your trees. Eric urges all customers to avoid using herbicides in their yard at all costs, but if you must use them it is critical that you spot treat only and keep all herbicides away from the base of the tree and from under the canopy of the tree to avoid contact with any essential roots.

Monitor for Signs of Stress: It is essential that you are keeping an eye out for all signs of stress during the scorching heat this summer. Some things to look out for are yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, leaves curling at the edges, dry and scorched foliage, Flagging leaves (leaves that have died but have stayed on the tree due to the lack of water sudden death), or premature leaf drop.

If you notice any signs of possible stress, it is critical you act immediately and contact your local ISA Certified Arborist for guidance as a trees physical symptoms are a delayed response to its stress and it may be more stressed than it appears. If you are located in the greater Houston area, Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. is here to help! Contact us today, for our team of knowledgeable arborists are experienced in diagnosing and treating heat and drought related stress complications.

Commonly Asked Questions:

Eric has compiled the following list of commonly asked questions that he has been asked over the years to help you with any that you may have!

How far away from the trees trunk should I water?

It is important to note a tree’s root zone can span 2 – 3 times the radius of its canopy and often during times of severe drought, they can reach out up to 5 times the canopy’s radius. However the trees critical root zone is located just inside of the trees drip line, or the area at the canopy’s edge where the water falls to the ground after landing on a trees foliage.**

Keep in mind this will differ from tree to tree, and watering within this zone is the bare minimum to sustain your tree. If you want your tree to thrive during this especially dry season try watering past the drip line and at least double the radius of its canopy.

**Don’t know where your trees drip zone is located? Test it out! Observe your tree during the next rain or spray your tree’s canopy with a water hose and watch where the water falls.

How long does it take a tree to recover from drought injury?

The recovery time for a tree from drought injury can vary significantly depending on factors such as the severity of the drought, the tree species, its age, health, and environmental conditions following the drought period. In mild cases of drought stress, where the tree experiences temporary wilting or leaf loss, recovery may occur relatively quickly once adequate water becomes available again. However, in more severe cases where prolonged drought leads to extensive damage, such as dieback of branches or root loss, the recovery process may take several years or even decades.

During this time, the tree will allocate resources towards regenerating damaged tissues, replenishing its energy reserves, and strengthening its defenses against future stressors. Proper care and management, including supplemental watering, biostimulant treatments, and pruning to remove dead or damaged branches, can help support the tree's recovery and promote its long-term health and resilience. Consulting with an ISA Certified Arborist for guidance on post-drought tree care practices is recommended to facilitate the recovery process and minimize further stress to the tree.

Some of my trees and shrubs are looking dry and crispy, how can I tell which ones are ‘gonners’ and which ones will make a recovery?

Drought injury in trees can be sudden or can take up to 2 years to present itself. Eric’s best advice in determining whether a tree will make a recovery is to monitor your trees and “wait and see”. Trees cannot talk to us , so the best that we can do is look out for any signs that they may be presenting.

The quickest way to get an idea whether a tree is going to make it through the drought is by their leaf behavior. If the leaves are becoming crispy or yellowed and falling to the ground there’s a good chance that your tree is stressed but going to pull through. If the leaves are “flagging” or dying but staying on the branches, there’s a good chance that your tree may be severely damaged and may be a “gonner”. Leaf flagging occurs in severe cases of drought stress and is a sign of sudden death.

If you notice any signs of drought stress on your tree, water, water, WATER!! And always wait until next spring before taking any removal action as the tree may still be alive, just dormant.

How can I keep my trees and plants from dying during Texas’ drought season?

Making sure you plant zone-relevant trees is one way you can ensure their survival during Texas’ grueling summers. For example, planting a tree that is native to the cool mountain tops of Washington cannot be expected to thrive in the tropical Florida environment.

Another sure way to ensure your tree's survival is to keep it hydrated! You can do so by administering daily deep waterings, setting up an irrigation system, or providing proper mulching.

To learn more about zones, and the importance of planting zone-relevant trees, check out this blog !

Do you have any questions still unanswered? Email us at Ericputnambcma@gmail.com to speak with an arborist!

The Foreign Vegetation Wonders of Florida

Fri, 12 Apr 2024 16:01:22 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Foreign Vegetation Wonders of Florida

I recently took a short trip to the beautiful sunshine state of Florida (St. Petersburg) to bask in the sun and take in the nature, and thought I’d share some of my discoveries with you all.

I am especially fond of the natural diversity of the state and how the natural environment can support such an array of foreign vegetation and flora. For example, the banyan tree or Ficus Benghalensis , which I have never heard of. This magnificent tree is native to India but can be found in the United States exclusively in Florida where it grows well because the climate is similar.

The Banyan tree, scientifically known as Ficus Benghalensis , belongs to the fig family and is native to South Asia. However, it has found its way into various tropical regions worldwide, where it thrives in warm climates and well-drained soil. The Banyan trees most notable feature is its unique growth habits—it begins its life as an epiphyte, a seed germinating in the crevice or cranny of a tree, stealing nutrients and gradually sending down aerial roots that grow into thick, woody trunks who eventually swallow and choke out the tree. These thick wood roots-turned trunks allow the tree to spread outwards indefinitely. Banyan trees can live up to 500 years and take up multiple acres, making them the largest trees in terms of the area they cover.

The Banyan tree's uses extend far beyond its ornamental beauty and cultural significance. Historically, various parts of the Banyan tree have been utilized for medicinal purposes in traditional healing practices. Extracts from its leaves, roots, and bark are believed to possess therapeutic properties, offering remedies for ailments ranging from digestive issues, skin conditions, and inflammatory conditions. Additionally, the tree's aerial roots and branches provide natural materials for crafting furniture, baskets, and handicrafts in some regions. Its dense foliage offers essential shade and shelter for many villages and communities across South Asia.

The Banyan tree also plays a crucial ecological role in its habitat. Its dense foliage provides shelter and food for a diverse array of wildlife, including birds, insects, and mammals. The aerial roots create microhabitats for epiphytic plants and support a thriving ecosystem within its embrace. Moreover, the Banyan tree's extensive root system helps prevent soil erosion and stabilizes riverbanks, making it a valuable asset in conservation efforts and land restoration projects.

Another plant that I found to be fascinating is the Ponytail “Palm” or Elephant Foot Tree ( Beaucarnea Recurvata ). This plant is not a true palm, it is one of seven species belonging to the genus Beaucarnea and agave family making it a succulent. This imposter palm is native to Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala, but can be found in the United States in California with assistance but only in Florida where it can thrive untouched due to the similar climate and environmental conditions.

It is characterized by a swollen, bulbous trunk that stores water, enabling it to withstand periods of drought. Atop the trunk sits a tuft of long, slender, arching leaves resembling a ponytail, giving the plant its distinctive appearance and the “Ponytail” name.

The ponytail palm is popular as a houseplant due to its low maintenance requirements and tolerance to a variety of indoor conditions. It thrives in bright, indirect light and well-draining soil, requiring infrequent watering to prevent root rot. With its charming silhouette and resilience, the ponytail palm adds a touch of exotic elegance to any indoor space, making it a beloved choice among plant enthusiasts.

And lastly, another foreign plant that is thriving in Florida’s environment that I feel is worth note is the Travelers Palm ( Ravenala madagascariensis ). Its native to the forests of Madagascar but can be found in growing in gardens across the tropics and all over southern Florida (and occasionally in southern California)

This plant too is not a palm, but a remarkable palm-like imposter related to bananas and birds of paradise (members of the Strelitziaceae family). The travelers palm can grow up to 100 feet (or 30 Meters) and features large, paddle-shaped leaves arranged in a fan shape allowing rainwater to collect in its leaf bases. The frond’s unique structure is often likened to a traveler's fan, which is believed to be where it gets its name. Another believed reason for its name is because the sheaths of the stems hold rainwater, which supposedly could be used as an emergency drinking supply for needy travelers. An alternative fascinating and more plausible reason for its name is that the fan tends to grow on an east–west line, providing a crude compass to travelers passing through.

Furthermore, the hollow stems of the Traveler's Palm can store water, making it a valuable resource in times of drought. Beyond its utilitarian properties, the Traveler's Palm is prized for its ornamental value, adding a tropical touch to landscapes and gardens worldwide. With its captivating beauty and practical benefits, the Traveler's Palm remains a symbol of resilience and hospitality in the plant kingdom.

The Importance of Preserving Your Tree During Construction

Thu, 04 Apr 2024 16:51:15 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Importance of Preserving Your Tree During Construction

The life of a tree is fragile, construction whether it be for vanity or essential purposes can be detrimental to the health of your tree if the proper precautions are not taken.

Root systems are crucial for the health and stability of trees, providing them with essential nutrients, water, and structural support. However, they are also fragile and susceptible to damage, especially during construction activities. Even minor damage to the root system can disrupt the tree's ability to absorb water and nutrients, leading to stress and decline in health. The following are common examples of how construction harms the root systems of trees:

Soil compaction is inevitable in areas of construction or high traffic(Vehicle or Foot). Compaction reduces the pore space between soil particles, limiting the movement of air, water, and nutrients within the soil. This restricts root growth and makes it difficult for roots to penetrate the soil and anchor the tree securely. Additionally, compacted soil has poor drainage, leading to waterlogging and oxygen deprivation in the root zone, which can suffocate roots, promote root rot, and cause the soil to go anaerobic. Also, compaction increases the soil resistance roots face when trying to grow, making it harder for them to expand and access essential nutrients and water.

Excavation work such as digging French drains and trenches, installing pools, or removing soil around a tree's critical root zone can directly injure the tree by severing the tree's crucial roots and exposing the tree roots to air and sunlight, increasing the risk of desiccation and damage.

Alterations to the grade or elevation of the land during construction such as yard leveling and installing sod can also be very harmful to the tree’s roots. Yard leveling can compact the soil surrounding the roots and disrupt the natural drainage patterns and water availability for trees. The resulting changes in soil moisture levels can stress tree roots and lead to root rot or drought stress.

Adding soil to the base of a tree disrupts the natural balance of the root system and can lead to the suffocation of roots by reducing oxygen levels in the root zone, hindering root respiration and nutrient uptake. The added soil creates a barrier that prevents water from reaching the roots effectively, leading to drought stress. Additionally, excessive soil accumulation can cause the roots to become buried too deeply, leading to poor aeration and drainage, which can promote root rot and other diseases.

Chemical exposure during construction is common as many construction activities involve the use of chemicals such as concrete additives, acid wash, petroleum-based products, or construction materials treated with preservatives, can leach into the soil and contaminate the root zone. These chemicals may disrupt soil pH levels, alter nutrient availability, and directly harm root tissues, leading to root damage, reduced root growth, and impaired root function. Additionally, chemical exposure can weaken the tree's immune system, making it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stressors.

Overall, construction activities pose significant risks to tree root systems, potentially causing long-term damage and a decline in tree health. It's essential to implement proper tree protection measures, such as biostimulant treatments, to mitigate the detrimental effects of construction on root systems and preserve the long-term health of trees. Consulting with a certified arborist before, during, and after construction projects can help mitigate risks and ensure the health and longevity of trees on the site.

Our Board-Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam, understands the importance of preserving the health of a tree during construction. He is highly trained and has years of experience caring for hundreds of trees large and small throughout various construction projects. To date one of Eric’s most notable project was having the opportunity to preserve a 200-year-old pecan tree that was in the center of the construction of a house.

**Picture Credits: FCharles Photography NY

This modern take on tree house is sitting 13-feet above the ground and is located just a few steps from one of Houston’s monumental landmarks, “Mount Rush Hour” offering a unique blend of contemporary design and natural beauty. Boasting 2,200 square feet of living space, this architectural masterpiece features 2 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, providing ample space for comfortable living. The highlight of this home is undoubtedly the beautiful 200-year-old pecan tree that stands majestically in the center, seamlessly integrated into the design. It is quite literally a livable piece of art!

With its unparalleled charm and tranquility, this modern treehouse offers a truly one-of-a-kind living experience in the vibrant city of Houston. Don't miss the opportunity to make this extraordinary home your own! You can find the listing and another article written exclusively on this home listed below:

Listing Link : https://www.har.com/homedetail/1002-edwards-st-houston-tx-77007/13782067?cid=ekrantz

Article Link : https://www.chron.com/homes/article/modern-houston-treehouse-18437952.php

Eric had the unique opportunity to work closely with the property owner and construction company during this build. He provided the tree with multiple biostimulant treatments throughout the construction process to boost the trees vitality and stimulate the biological activity in the soil, which will foster a healthy environment for root development, enhance the trees nutrient uptake, and minimize any stress inflicted on the tree during the process.

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc., we understand that construction is inevitable, and we are not trying to stop you, rather we want to work together with you and educate you during the process to ensure the best outcome for your trees and your property!

Is your yard prone to flooding? The bald cypress may be the tree for you!

Wed, 27 Mar 2024 13:01:35 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Is your yard prone to flooding? The bald cypress may be the tree for you!

Spring has sprung, which means the rainy season is upon us! If your yard turns into a pond this time of year or is prone to flooding in general, you may want to consider planting a Cypress tree.

Bald cypress trees (Taxodium distichum) are magnificent deciduous conifers known for their striking appearance and resilience. These majestic trees typically grow in swampy or waterlogged areas, thriving in wetland habitats across the southeastern United States (from New Jersey south to Florida and east into Texas) and located in hardiness zones 5A-10B.

Towering with heights reaching up to 120 feet, their straight, tapered trunks can span impressive widths, often growing up to 6 feet in diameter. The bark of the bald cypress tree is fibrous and reddish-brown, with deep furrows and ridges that add to its rugged charm. The distinct cone-shaped foliage consists of delicate, feathery needles arranged spirally on short spur shoots, giving the tree a soft, lacy appearance. These needles are a vibrant green in color and make for a lush canopy in the growing season. As autumn approaches, the foliage undergoes transformation as the needles turn a striking russet or copper color and dropping before winter. The cypress will remain bare until the next spring, earning them their notable nickname of “bald” cypress. And aside from their ability to live over a thousand years, their most distinctive feature lies in their unique "knees," or pneumatophores, which protrude from the water or damp soil around the trees base, aiding in the stability of the tree and oxygenation of the surrounding soil.

These physical traits, along with their adaptability and longevity, make bald cypresses a beloved and iconic species in yards and wetland ecosystems!

How does a bald cypress tree mitigate flooding?

Bald cypress trees offer several mechanisms to mitigate flooding in your yard and wetland ecosystems. Firstly, their extensive root systems, which include the distinctive pneumatophores, anchor the trees firmly in the ground, helping to stabilize soil and prevent erosion. These roots act as natural barriers, reducing the impact of floodwaters and holding soil in place during high-water events. Additionally, bald cypresses can absorb significant amounts of water through their roots, helping to lower water levels in saturated soils and alleviate flooding in waterlogged areas. This capacity for water absorption not only aids in flood mitigation but also contributes to the overall health of wetland ecosystems by regulating water levels and promoting soil aeration. By regulating water levels and enhancing soil stability, bald cypress trees contribute to the overall health and resilience of wetland ecosystems, providing valuable ecosystem services that benefit both the environment and surrounding communities.

Overall, through their unique adaptations and ecological functions, bald cypress trees play a crucial role in mitigating flooding and maintaining the balance of water not only in wetland environments but your own yard too!

What is the International Day of Forests?

Wed, 20 Mar 2024 14:02:59 GMT

Liriopes Muse: What is the International Day of Forests?

The International Day of Forests, observed on March 21st each year, is a United Nations initiative aimed at raising awareness about the importance of forests and trees worldwide. The day serves as an opportunity to celebrate the vital role that forests play in supporting biodiversity, combating climate change, and sustaining the livelihoods of millions of people around the globe. It also highlights the need for sustainable management and conservation of forests to ensure their long-term health and resilience. Each year, the International Day of Forests has a specific theme to focus attention on key issues facing forests and promote actions to address them.

Why was the International Day of Forests established?

The International Day of Forests was established by the United Nations to raise awareness about the importance of forests and trees for the environment and human well-being. It aims to highlight the numerous benefits that forests provide, such as biodiversity conservation, climate regulation, provision of clean air and water, and support for sustainable livelihoods. Additionally, the day serves as a platform to address the various threats facing forests, including deforestation, habitat destruction, illegal logging, and climate change.

Each year more than 32 million acres (or 13 million hectares) of forests and trees are lost across the world due to deforestation, urbanization, and other natural factors such as forest fires. To put that into perspective, that is an area the size of Nicaragua (the largest country in Central America) or how us Americans like to measure things, about 24,293,548 football fields.

By designating a specific day to focus on forests, the United Nations aims to mobilize governments, organizations, communities, and individuals worldwide to take action towards the sustainable management and conservation of our trees and forests. Through education, advocacy, and collaborative efforts, the International Day of Forests seeks to promote forest conservation and restoration initiatives that contribute to a healthier planet and a better quality of life for current and future generations.

Why is the International Day of Forests important?

The International Day of Forests holds significant importance for several reasons:

Raising Awareness: It serves as a platform to raise global awareness about the importance of forests and trees in

sustaining life on Earth. Many people may not fully understand the critical

role that forests play in providing clean air, water, biodiversity, and other

ecosystem services.

Promoting Conservation and Sustainable Management: The day highlights the urgent need for conservation and

sustainable management of forests. It encourages governments, organizations,

communities, and individuals to take action to protect and preserve forests for

future generations.

Addressing Environmental Challenges: By focusing attention on forests, the day helps address

pressing environmental challenges such as deforestation, habitat loss, climate

change, and biodiversity loss. It promotes discussions and initiatives aimed at

mitigating these threats and promoting forest resilience.

Supporting Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): Forests are closely linked to several Sustainable

Development Goals (SDGs) outlined by the United Nations, including goals

related to poverty alleviation, climate action, biodiversity conservation, and

sustainable cities and communities. The International Day of Forests provides

an opportunity to emphasize the role of forests in achieving these goals.

Celebrating Cultural and Traditional Values: Forests hold cultural and traditional significance for many

communities around the world. The day provides a platform to celebrate these

values and recognize the important relationship between forests and cultural

heritage.

Overall, the International Day of Forests serves as a crucial reminder of the importance of forests for the well-being of people and the planet, and it inspires collective action towards their conservation and sustainable management.

What is the 2024 International Day of Forests theme?

The 2024 International Day of Forests theme is ‘Forests and Innovation: New Solutions for a Better World’, to highlight the important role of technology and innovation in the preservation of forest ecosystems. This theme is a global call to action to harness technological innovations for our forests to address the growing threat of habitat degradation, deforestation, and climate change.

This campaigns key messages include: mapping and safeguarding ancestral lands to conserve their biodiversity; forest monitoring systems to monitor and report on forest conditions and wildlife; new products made from forest byproducts to help create alternatives to unsustainable materials such as steel, plastics, and synthetic fibers; and technological innovations, such as monitoring systems and drones, are significant in the fight against forest fires and deforestation.

What can you do as an individual to make a lasting impact/difference in this cause?

As an individual, you can make a significant impact on forests and ecosystems through various actions. Simple steps like reducing your consumption of paper and wood products, recycling, and opting for sustainable alternatives can help decrease the demand for resources obtained through deforestation. Supporting organizations dedicated to forest conservation and participating in tree planting initiatives are tangible ways to contribute positively.

Additionally, advocating for policies that promote sustainable forestry practices and protecting natural habitats can influence broader conservation efforts. Educating others about the importance of forests and biodiversity and inspiring collective action within your community further amplifies your individual impact. By taking responsibility for your environmental footprint and actively engaging in conservation and awareness efforts, you contribute to the global effort to protect these vital ecosystems for future generations.

In conclusion, the International Day of Forests stands as a powerful reminder of the invaluable role that forests play in sustaining life on Earth. As individuals, we hold the power to make a positive impact on the health and well-being of forests worldwide. By taking action to conserve and protect forests in our communities, reducing our carbon footprint, supporting sustainable practices, and advocating for forest conservation policies, we can contribute to the preservation of these vital ecosystems. Together, let us recognize the significance of forests, embrace our responsibility as stewards of the environment, and strive to leave a legacy of sustainability and abundance for generations to come.

Timing is Everything: The Best Time to Prune Your Trees for Healthy Growth

Wed, 13 Mar 2024 22:14:36 GMT

Liriope's Muse - Timing is Everything: The Best Time to Prune Your Trees for Healthy Growth

One of the most common questions that our ISA Board Certified Master Arborist, Eric Putnam, receives from tree owners is: "When is the best time to prune my trees?" The answer isn't always straightforward, as it depends on various factors, including the species of tree, its health, and your pruning goals. In this blog, in collaboration with Eric, I'll provide valuable insights into the best times of the year to prune trees for optimal results.

Understanding Tree Dormancy

Before delving into specific seasons, it's crucial to understand the concept of dormancy. Dormancy is a period during which trees experience slowed growth and metabolic activity. This phase typically occurs during the winter months in temperate climates, although it can vary depending on the species and environmental conditions.

Pruning during dormancy offers several advantages. Firstly, without the presence of leaves, it's easier to assess the tree's structure and identify areas that require attention. Secondly, dormant trees are less susceptible to stress and disease, reducing the risk of complications from pruning wounds. With these principles in mind, let's explore the best times of the year to prune trees.

Late Winter to Early Spring: Ideal for Most Trees

For the majority of tree species, late winter to early spring (or before the trees break bud) is considered the optimal time for pruning. During this period, trees are dormant, making it an excellent opportunity to perform corrective pruning, remove dead or diseased branches, and shape the tree's structure. Pruning during this time stimulates new growth as the tree transitions into the growing season.

However, it's essential to avoid pruning certain species, such as pines and birches, during early spring, as they are prone to "bleeding" – the leaking of sap from pruning wounds. While bleeding is not directly harmful to the tree, it can attract pests and some individuals find it unsightly. To minimize bleeding, consider postponing pruning these species until late spring to early summer or don’t .

Summer: Ideal for Maintenance Pruning

While summer is not typically the primary pruning season, it's an ideal time for maintenance pruning and light trimming. During the summer months, trees are in full leaf, allowing you to assess their canopy and address any overgrown or crossing branches.

However, it's crucial to avoid heavy pruning during the hottest months of summer, as it can stress the tree and make it more susceptible to environmental stressors like pests, fungal infections, and disease. Instead, focus on minor pruning tasks, such as removing deadwood and shaping the tree's silhouette.

Fall: Best for Specific Tree Species

Fall pruning is best reserved for specific tree species, particularly those prone to diseases such as oak and elm trees. With insects and pathogens less active during the cooler months, fall pruning minimizes the risk of infection from pruning wounds. Additionally, fall pruning allows you to address any structural issues before winter storms arrive.

In conclusion, the best time to prune trees depends on various factors, including the species of tree, its health, and your pruning goals. By understanding the principles of dormancy and selecting the appropriate pruning season, you can promote the health, vigor, and longevity of your trees. If you're unsure about the best time to prune your trees or require assistance with pruning techniques, don't hesitate to consult with a certified arborist for professional guidance. Happy pruning!

At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. we do things a little different than other tree service companies, typically we prune no more than 5% of a trees canopy at a time and remove branches no larger than an inch in diameter, which causes minimal stress to the tree allowing us to prune year-round(with the exception of removing large deadwood and clearances). For expert tree trimming and pruning services in the greater Houston area, contact us today!

*We are located in Hardiness Zone 9B, which is where the majority of our knowledge lies. Note, pruning techniques and timing vary from hardiness zone to hardiness zone.

Can I trim my neighbor's overhanging tree branches if they are on my property?

Fri, 08 Mar 2024 13:01:33 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Can I trim my neighbor's overhanging tree branches if they are on my property?

Does your neighbor have a pesky tree dropping leaves in your pool? Maybe an unsightly branch hanging over your fence? Or maybe you’re concerned that your neighbor’s tree is posing a risk to your home or property and don’t know how to go about handling it. In this blog, we will discuss your rights as a homeowner and the legalities surrounding trimming your neighbor’s tree from your property.

A tree that crosses over a boundary line can cause a lot of confusion between neighbors as to who owns the tree and whose responsibility it is to maintain. If you happen to find yourself in a situation where your neighbor's tree is encroaching on your property, there are a few steps you can take. Firstly, try having an open and friendly conversation with your neighbor about the issue. They may not even be aware of the problem and might be willing to address it. If that doesn't work, consult your local ISA Certified Arborist. They will be familiar with your local and state guidelines/regulations regarding encroachment.

According to Texas.gov, a neighboring landowner has the right to trim or cut off the limbs or roots of the tree to the property line. However it is important to keep in mind that even though you may have the right to trim the tree, you could still be sued if the tree or other property is irreparably injured in the process. And the chances are that if you trim a mature tree that has been growing over your yard for years you will irreparably damage or kill that tree. It is important to note that though the initial pruning of the tree may not kill it, the resulting health decline can open up the tree to borers, disease, and fungi who will kill the tree. In other words, if the causal agent is pruning the roots or the limbs and the tree succumbs to a secondary condition like borers, disease, or fungi you can still be held liable. This is why it is essential that you hire a Certified Arborist who is highly experienced and qualified to prune the tree safely to avoid any potential harm.

How can I tell if a tree belongs to my neighbors?

Generally, the location of the trunk determines who owns the tree, however, there can be exceptions to this rule. For example, if the tree’s trunk is located on your property but its crown is overhanging on your neighbor’s property, they are entitled to that section of the tree. In fact, if you trim or remove the tree without permission you could be held liable up to treble the value of the percentage of the tree overhanging their property. In the case that a trunk is located on or split by the property line, it is called a shared tree, and each property owner has rights to the tree.

In the end, when deciding to trim your neighbor's tree it's essential to familiarize yourself with your local laws and regulations, as they can vary. Generally, you have the right to trim any branches that extend into your property, as long as you don't go beyond the property line. However, it's always best to approach the situation with open communication and discuss your concerns with your neighbor. It's also advisable to hire a professional arborist who can ensure the tree is trimmed properly and without causing damage. Remember, maintaining good relations with your neighbor is important, so try to find a solution that benefits both parties.

Have you ever stopped to smell the flowers? And no, I do not mean the roses....

Mon, 04 Mar 2024 12:08:31 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Have you ever stopped to smell the flowers? And no, I do not mean the roses....

In the tree service industry, we not only care for our beloved trees, but we also appreciate and nurture the beauty of wildflowers that bloom amongst them.

Wildflowers are a diverse group of flowering plants that grow naturally in meadows, fields, woodlands, and other uncultivated areas. Unlike cultivated flowers, wildflowers are not intentionally planted or managed by humans. They have evolved to thrive in their native environments, adapting to various soil types, climates, growing conditions, pests, and diseases, resulting in a wide array of colors, shapes, and sizes.

What makes wildflowers so captivating is their ability to self-sow and spread, attracting and supporting pollinators year-round, and creating stunning displays of color. From dainty bluebells to sprawling poppies, wildflowers showcase the wonders of nature and remind us of the beauty that can arise effortlessly in unexpected places.

Wildflowers play a crucial role in our ecosystem and offer a range of benefits that make them a valuable addition to any environment. Firstly, their extensive root systems help to prevent soil erosion. The long and fibrous roots of wildflowers hold the soil together, preventing it from being washed away by rain or blown away by wind. This is especially beneficial on slopes or areas prone to erosion. Additionally, wildflowers add organic matter to the soil as they decompose, enriching its fertility and structure. They also help improve water infiltration and retention, reducing the risk of runoff and flooding; promoting a healthier water cycle. Furthermore, wildflowers can attract beneficial insects and microorganisms that contribute to overall soil health and nutrient cycling. Finally and arguably most importantly, wildflowers filter the air of carbon dioxide and nitrogen and store these vital nutrients in the soil, creating cleaner air and a healthier growing environment for other plants in your garden. In other words, they self-fertilize the soil. And despite their crucial role in our yards and ecosystems, wildflowers are becoming increasingly rare due to urbanization and habitat loss.

Which wildflowers should I plant in my yard?

While all wildflowers can be beneficial to the health and vitality of your yard, it is important that you stick to native species. Native wildflower species are 5 times more attractive to local pollinators, they are already adapted to your environment’s unique conditions, they promote natural diversity, and preserve our environment’s natural heritage. Wildflowers are frail and dainty, but the most resilient of all flowers. Due to their hardiness, they require no care! So you can spread them wherever you please and forget about them… that is until they bloom of course!

Planting wildflowers is a wonderful and rewarding way to contribute to the health of our environment. By choosing to plant wildflowers, you'll be supporting pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, which play a vital role in the reproduction of plants and the production of our food. Lastly, wildflowers bring beauty, color, and a sense of tranquility to landscapes, provide a natural and vibrant habitat for wildlife to thrive, and enhance our enjoyment of nature. So, why not embark on an eco-friendly gardening adventure to enjoy the countless benefits that wildflowers bring and help preserve the population?

Is it really "Crape Murder" or regenerative pruning?

Fri, 23 Feb 2024 22:40:17 GMT

Liriopes Muse: Is it really "Crape Murder" or regenerative pruning?

There are numerous species of Crape Myrtles (yes, this is a correct spelling*) across the world, but the species most common to the Texas Gulf Coastal Region is the Lagerstroemia Indica X Faurei . Originally, Lagerstroemia Indica was the species known to be common to the South, however they were heavily susceptible to a white powdery mildew ( Erysiphe Lagerstroemiae ) making their numbers slowly dwindle. To combat this vulnerability, plant breeders (geneticists) in 1956 crossed the Lagerstroemia Indica with the Lagerstroemia Faurei (from Japan) creating a brand new, more resilient breed of Crape Myrtle. The beautiful colors of the Indicas combined with the exfoliating bark and disease-resistant Faureis create the Crape Myrtles we know and love in the Houston area.

In fact, every Crape Myrtle you see today has been genetically modified or selectively bred in some form or fashion. From beautiful ground-covering shrubs to stately shade trees that can survive nearly any condition. The trees bloom in practically every shade of white, pink, red, and purple. Hundreds of varieties now exist, but unfortunately many are not suitable for Houston’s unique climate and environment.

Crape myrtles are elegant, ornamental trees that possess a distinct and beautiful appearance. These deciduous trees typically grow 2 to 20 feet but can grow over 30 feet tall, forming a rounded or vase-shaped crown. The bark of a Crape Myrtle is smooth and mottled, with shades of cinnamon, gray, and beige, providing an interesting texture to the tree's overall appearance. The foliage of a Crape Myrtle is equally captivating. The leaves are elongated, glossy, and lance-shaped, typically growing between 1 to 3 inches in length. They are arranged alternately along the branches and feature prominent veins. The leaves vary in color, ranging from a vibrant green in the spring and summer to shades of red, orange, or yellow in the fall.

In the summer, Crapes bloom with abundant clusters of ruffled petals known as panicles that create a stunning display of color. These panicles can measure anywhere from 6 to 18 inches in length, flowering in a wide array of hues, including shades of pink, red, purple, lavender, and white.

So, what exactly is Crape murder?

“Crape murder” is an informal term used to describe the over-pruning or “maiming” of a Crape Myrtle in such a way that destroys the natural growth pattern of the tree. (see pictures above)

As with most industries, bad apples or unexperienced laborers have set the “standard” of what “Crape Murder” is by widespread improper regenerative pruning/topping practices, setting bad expectations, and making the impression that all pruning on Crapes is bad. Or in this case, Murder…

What is the difference between Crape murder and regenerative pruning?

Regenerative pruning is a technique used in tree care to promote the healthy growth and rejuvenation of trees. It involves strategic pruning cuts (or topping) that encourages new growth and helps to maintain the overall health and structure of the tree. By selectively removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches, regenerative pruning allows the tree to allocate its energy and resources more efficiently towards new growth and development. This process stimulates dormant buds, leading to the production of new shoots and foliage. Regenerative pruning is often employed during the dormant season (Winter) to minimize stress on the tree and maximize its regrowth potential. It helps to improve the tree's aesthetics, encourages better airflow and sunlight penetration, and promotes a strong, resilient structure.

Despite conflicting beliefs, selective pruning/topping of a Crape Myrtle has a number of benefits. Once a Crape Myrtle reaches maturity it goes into maintenance and then its natural retrenchment phase. When a tree is in retrenchment, it begins to kill off its upper branches to divert resources to a more centralized point of the canopy. When this occurs, you may notice the trees leaves slowly being to grow smaller and more round, its blooms may be duller in color, smaller, and more sparse. This can also open up the tree to be infested with lichen, the lichen will grow on the branches of the Crape Myrtle as a result of sparse leaves, flower panicles, and the tree's weakened immune system (also known as allelopathic chemicals). The lichen itself is harmless to your trees, but it is a tell-tale sign that your tree is not doing the best it could.

So regenerative pruning (or retrenchment pruning), in the case of Crape Myrtles, involves cutting back all of the trees dead or dying branches just a few inches from the larger branch or trunk to take a large load off of the Crape allowing the tree to allocate its energy more efficiently towards new growth and development.

All that said, though it can look scary and like your precious Crape Myrtle has just been scalped, it is truly in the best interest for the longevity and vivacity of your tree. Think of it like cutting off some of your luscious locks to remove the dead ends and promote its regrowth.

*Now for the long awaited explanation… Is it Crape Myrtle and Crepe Myrtle?

Interestingly, it depends on who you ask! Both are correct and pronounced the same, however the one most widely used in America and by The American Horticulture Society is “Crape Myrtle”. The Spelling “Crepe Myrtle” is most commonly used in Europe, however here in the South, as you know, we like to do things differently than the rest of the United States. “Crepe Myrtle” has a long heritage of use in the South and is still used more often than its rival spelling. So, which spelling should you use? Whichever one feels right for you! Po-tato Puh-tato am I right?

Should I have my stumps ground after tree removal? The pros & cons to stump grinding.

Fri, 16 Feb 2024 14:28:57 GMT

Stump grinding is a highly effective and efficient method used to remove unsightly tree stumps from your property. The process involves using a specialized machine called a stump grinder, which grinds the stump and its roots into tiny wood chips. The grinder is equipped with a rotating cutter wheel that rapidly chips away at the stump, reducing it to mulch and making for an easy clean-up.

Stump grinding is an affordable and time-efficient alternative to other stump removal methods, such as digging, using chemicals, or explosives. It not only removes the physical presence of the stump but also prevents future regrowth. Allowing you to bid farewell to those trip hazard eyesores and reclaim your yard space creating a more attractive landscape!

What are the benefits of stump grinding?

Stump grinding offers a range of benefits for your property and landscape. Firstly, it eliminates trip hazards that can result from protruding stumps, making your yard safer for both you and your family. Additionally, stump grinding greatly improves the visual appeal of your outdoor space by removing unsightly tree stumps. It also prevents the decay and decomposition of stumps, which can attract pests like termites, ants, and fungi.

Stump grinding is an eco-friendly solution that promotes a healthier and more beautiful environment on your property and by having your stumps ground, you free up space for landscaping, such as planting new trees and flowers or installing hardscapes.

What are the cons of stump grinding?

While stump grinding offers numerous benefits, it's important to consider a few potential drawbacks as well. One of the main cons is the cost associated with hiring a professional service to perform the stump grinding as it can be a dangerous task. When stump grinding there is a serious risk of damaging underground utilities such as pipes and cables, so it is essential to hire a professional company that can locate and navigate around them. (You and your tree service company must call 811 to locate any underground utilities before chipping into any stump, large or small.) Additionally, depending on the size and complexity of the stump, the price can vary.

Also, the process of grinding a stump can generate a considerable amount of wood chips and debris, which will need to be removed and properly disposed of. However, despite these considerations, the benefits of stump grinding usually outweigh the drawbacks for most homeowners.

What are my options if I do not want my stump ground?

If you prefer not to have your stump ground, there are alternative options to consider. One option is stump removal, which involves extracting the entire stump from the ground, including the roots. This process typically requires digging around the stump and using heavy machinery to lift it out. It can be more labor-intensive and time-consuming than stump grinding, but it completely eliminates the stump. During tree removal, you may also consider asking the tree crew to cut the tree flush with the ground to cut back on used space.

Another option is to incorporate the stump into your landscape design. You can transform it into a unique decorative feature by carving it, turning it into a natural planter, or seating area. However, keep in mind that this option may not work for all stump sizes or locations and if you are considering taking the natural route and waiting it out to see if it rots away on its own... you'll be waiting for at least 7 years!

Can I plant a tree where a stump has just been ground?

Absolutely, as long as disease or fungal pathogens were not present in removal! Once a stump has been ground and removed, you have a fresh opportunity to plant a new tree in that spot. Stump grinding not only removes the physical stump but also grinds up the remaining roots, allowing for easier soil preparation.

Keep in mind, if you are considering replanting in the same location you must haul away all mulch as the previous tree's allelopathic chemicals can affect those of the new trees and can kill them.

Can I keep and reuse the produced mulch?

In short, no. Unfortunately, if the tree was removed because it was dead or in decline due to disease, a fungal pathogen, a pest infestation, or something of the sort the mulch must be disposed of or composted. All of these are contagious conditions that can spread to the healthy trees and plants in your landscape killing them. Green mulch produced during stump grinding must also be discarded because it comes from living trees. Live mulch is full of allelopathic chemicals that can seriously harm your plants and trees natural hormones or PGR's.

Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.'s Certified Arborists are highly trained professionals who know the ins and outs of tree care, ensuring that the stump removal process is conducted safely and efficiently. So, don't let that stump be an eyesore any longer - reach out to us today and say goodbye to it for good!

The Dangers of Using Dirty Equipment: Tree Climbing Spurs

Thu, 15 Feb 2024 15:21:04 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Dangers of Using Dirty Equipment - Tree Climbing Spurs

Tree climbing spurs or 'climbers' are spurs that some tree climbers use to scale or climb a tree quickly and with stability. These spurs are strapped to the climber's leg and located on the inner sides of each foot.

As you can imagine, using spurs to climb a tree is very injurious. With each step, the climber stabs the blade into the tree to hoist themselves up and in doing so they gouge chunks out of the tree. These holes or wounds left behind are called gaffs. Most climbers will take 6-12 inch steps on their ascent and again on their descent. Now imagine they are climbing a 50-foot pine tree... that is an average of at least 4 gaffs a foot. Meaning for a simple pruning job, a tree can sustain more than 200 wounds. To add insult to injury, these wounds not only provide an open door to pests like borer beetles to enter the tree, but

the spurs come into direct contact with the flesh of the tree so it is easy to pick up and spread disease.

Our master arborist, Eric Putnam, was called out to assess the health of a customer's tree and while surveying the tree he noticed previous gaff marks which led him to further investigate the other trees in their yard. Upon inspection, Eric found this oak tree (pictured above) seeming to be suffering from Phytophthora Ramorum, better known as the "sudden oak death'' in the tree community. This tree was inoculated or infected with this tree-killing disease when another tree crew used dirty spurs to climb it during a routine tree pruning. The spurs penetrated the Oaks bark reaching its inner bark/flesh spreading the disease across this unsuspecting healthy tree. Unfortunately, this Oak will shortly succumb to its infection as there is no cure for it and it is only a matter of time before the other trees in this yard that were climbed in this heinous way will too succumb to this infection.

Using 'dirty' or unsanitary equipment when working on trees is a biohazard as is using a dirty needle to start an IV. Dirty equipment can spread all kinds of hazardous infections, diseases, and fungi that can weaken and even kill your trees. In this case, a harmless tree pruning led to the death of this healthy and beautiful Oak tree.

How can we prevent the spread of infections from tree to tree? The answer is simple, all equipment must be sterilized between each tree. Taking a few minutes to sterilize your equipment is crucial to ensure diseases are not being spread.

All this said, tree climbing spurs can be a great tool for climbers to safely and efficiently climb a tree when the tree is either being removed or already dead. These spurs should never be used on healthy living trees.

The Ariel Acrobats with Small Brains, Ridiculous Tongues, and a Passion for Percussion

Thu, 15 Feb 2024 13:37:39 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Ariel Acrobats with Small Brains, Ridiculous Tongues, and a Passion for Percussion

With 239 species of woodpeckers, these birds can just about be found anywhere there are trees, shrubs, telephone poles, and cacti. (with the exception of Australia and Antarctica)

They've got rhythm!

Each species of woodpecker has developed their own unique style of rhythms, patterns, and speeds. This allows other members of the species - and some keen-eared birders - to identify who is speaking. Though they cannot sing, woodpeckers produce a range of rhythms, or calls, to warn others of danger, run off a rival, attract a mate, and send various signals/communications. Much like their songbird cousins, woodpeckers are "wired" to learn their unique drumming patterns (Unlike, for example, the naturally occurring screech an an eagle.) Woodpeckers like to practice their drumming on different surfaces such as hollowed out trees, stumps, and logs to create just the right volume, pitch, and speed that reaches ears far and wide.

These creative percussionists are also known to use other objects like telephone poles, house gutters, street light covers, and even transformers to amplify their tunes.

Ever wonder how, despite using their heads as jackhammers, woodpeckers don't get concussions? Well, they can thank their curiously long tongue for that.

Their tongues are how long?

Woodpeckers have some of the longest tongues in the bird kingdom, their tongues can extend up to 5 inches past the tip of their beak and be up to 9 1/2 inches in total length making for the perfect vessel to reach deep into crevices in search of grubs, ants, and sap. In addition to length, woodpecker tongues are barbed at the end creating a harpoon and giving them a great advantage when hunting for prey. Further, their tongue is sticky making it impossible for an insect to wiggle away once it is speared.

So where do the other few inches of tongue fit into their tiny heads? Their tongue begins in the lower mandible or the muscle tissue right behind their eyes and extends around their brain (creating a brace or shock absorber of sorts) and out of their bill. The tongue is wrapped in a set of bones and muscles called the Hyoid Apparatus. This apparatus gives the bird mobility and control over its tongue.

The heroes with a bad reputation...

Despite popular belief, woodpeckers aren't as harmful to trees as they may seem. They get a bad reputation for killing trees when what they are actually doing is pointing to a larger issue, like a pest infestation for example. With the exception of the sapsucker, woodpeckers only drill into trees in search of prey. (which must first be inhabiting the tree before the woodpecker's arrival.) Shortly after a woodpecker has established a stable food source, they will begin to build a nest by burrowing deep into the trunk of a tree creating holes far larger than those drilled for food.

This is not to say that woodpeckers do no harm to trees, because they do, but never solely to an extent that will kill the tree. They just further weaken and stress an already stressed tree. and if you'd like to rid your tree of a woodpecker problem, you must first get rid of the underlying pest infestation. A bird with no food will no longer have a need for that tree and will shortly flee.

So if you happen to see a woodpecker drilling into your beloved tree, call an arborist near you as you may have a pest infestation of some kind.

Below are some articles I found useful during my research for this blog:

Birds and Blooms - Woodpecker Facts

River Bendva - Woodpecker Damage To Trees

CBC - Why Woodpeckers Dont Get Concussions

Record Herald - The Marvel Of Woodpeckers Tongue

The Chinese Tallow and why it is Eric Putnam BCMA’s Favorite

Fri, 09 Feb 2024 16:22:42 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Chinese Tallow and why it is Eric Putnam BCMA's Favorite

The Chinese tallow tree (triadica sebifera), or popcorn tree, is not native to the United States yet you can find it in South Carolina down to Florida and west into Texas, and occasionally has been located in California. It is native to eastern Asia in China and Tiwan and was not introduced to the United States until 1776 in Southern Carolina by Ben Franklin. And promoted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as an oil crop. The name tallow comes from the waxy tallow derived from the white covering of the seed, similar to the tallow that is 100% fat rendered from cattle and sheep. This natural tallow has been used historically to make soap, candles, topical medicines, and other petroleum type products.

Tallows are deciduous trees that can grow up to 60 feet in height, 3 feet in diameter, and can live up to 100 years. These trees are fast growing, with the ability to grow 7-13 feet a year! Their beautiful canopy provides a deep shade, and grass does not typically grow under it in thick forrests. They have light grey bark, with leaves that are ever changing in color. These waxy leaves are naturally green in color, with bright green on top and a light green under side. During season changes the leaves become bright oranges, yellows, reds, and even purples. Tallows have the most dramatic seasonal leaf changes of any tree in all of the southern gulf coast region making them beautifully ornamental. These trees are monoecious, meaning they produce both male(androecium) and female(gynoecium) flowers separately on the same tree. “mono” meaning one, and “ecious” meaning house, so “monoecious” literally means “one house”. Tallow trees house both genders of flowers giving them the potential for asexual reproduction, however they generally require cross-pollination. Tallows are resilient trees as they are tolerant to drought, flooding, shading, high salinity, and most freezing temperatures. However late frosts pose a danger, as their annual flowering begins mid-April and if a freeze occurs during the flowering period, it will kill all existing blooms.

The Chinese tallow tree produces a solid fat from the outer covering of its seeds called stillingia oil. This oil is very versatile and is used in numerous ways. Industrially, this stillingia oil is used as a drying medium for paints and varnishes, as crude lamp oil, and in machine oils. This oil can also be converted into ethanol, methanol, diesel, and charcoal. The tallow tree’s white waxy aril, or the inner most part of the seed that is edible and encourages animals to eat and disperse, has been found to have anti-inflammatory properties and is used in many topical applications. It is used in candles, soap, lotions, and traditional Chinese medicines used to treat edema, shingles, ascites, eczema, scabs, swelling, snakebites, and more. The Chinese tallow tree is also very popular in the honey making process for beekeepers all across the gulf coast. This honey is rich, full-flavored, deep amber in color and the best honey that you can get in all of the gulf coast region.

“I simply can’t think of another tree that is this diverse” – Eric Putnam

What is an arborist, why should I hire one, and what are their qualifications? Everything you should know about an arborist before hiring one.

Fri, 09 Feb 2024 13:32:00 GMT

Liriope's Muse: What is an arborist, why should I hire one, and what are their qualifications? Everything you should know about an arborist before hiring one.

If you're considering hiring an arborist to care for your trees, you should know what they do, why they do it, and their qualifications. In this blog, we'll cover important things you should know about arborists, how to choose the right arborist, and other interesting information you may not have known.

What is an ISA Certified Arborist?

An ISA Certified Arborist is a skilled professional in the tree care industry who specializes in the cultivation, management, and maintenance of trees. They possess extensive knowledge about various tree species, their growth patterns, diseases, and the best techniques for their care.

Arborists play a crucial role in ensuring the health and vitality of trees in both urban and natural environments. From planting and pruning to diagnosing and treating tree diseases, arborists are the go-to experts for anything related to trees. They use a variety of tools and techniques to assess tree health, improve tree structure, and provide solutions for tree-related issues.

Why should I hire an ISA Certified Arborist?

Hiring an arborist offers numerous benefits when it comes to the care and management of your trees. Firstly, arborists are highly trained and knowledgeable professionals who understand the complexities of trees and their unique needs. They can identify issues that may go unnoticed by the untrained eye and provide appropriate solutions, whether it's pruning, disease treatment, or tree removal.

Arborists also prioritize tree health and safety, so they will ensure that your trees are properly cared for and not posing any risks to your property or loved ones. Additionally, they have the proper equipment and experience to handle tree work efficiently and safely, minimizing any potential damage or accidents. By hiring an arborist, you can be confident that your trees are in good hands and will thrive for years to come.

How can I tell the difference between an arborist and a half-price Harry landscaper?

The biggest and most notable difference lies in their professional experience and safety awareness. Landscapers specialize in the upkeep and visual design of lawns, gardens, patios, and other outdoor areas. Most are not equipped with the training and the tools needed to perform arboriculture operations safely, or even correctly. On the contrary, certified arborists are highly trained and experienced in working with dangerous equipment, and educated to ISA, TCIA, and ANSI safety and tree care standards. With the most reputable companies having workman's compensation insurance, protecting the company and the homeowners from any property damages, and having a professional company that is incorporated shows the arborist's commitment to the field of arboriculture.

That being said if your lawn is in need of a little TLC, a landscaper is surely the guy to call, but if your trees or shrubs are looking unhealthy or dangerous, it is time to call a certified arborist!

So what qualifies someone to be an ISA Certified Arborist?

Becoming an ISA Certified Arborist is no easy feat, it takes loads of hours both in school and in the field. To first qualify for the exam, you must have at least 3 years of experience in the field and it is preferred that you hold a degree in Horticulture, Forestry, or another relevant field.

The International Society of Arboriculture says, When you become an ISA Certified Arborist, you are recognized by your peers and the public as a tree care professional who has attained a generally-accepted level of knowledge in areas such as tree biology, diagnosis, maintenance practices, safety, and other subject and practice areas within the tree care profession. To earn such a credential, you must be trained and knowledgeable in all aspects of arboriculture. ISA Certified Arborists must also adhere to the Code of Ethics that strengthens the credibility and reliability of the workforce. ( ISA.com )

What's better than an ISA Certified Arborist?

A Board-Certified Master Arborist of course! A BCMA certification is the highest arboricultural cerification that one can receive. It is the pinnacle of one's career, comparable to a doctorate and only about 2% of all arborists hold this title.

According to Wiki, the Master Arborist or Board Certified Master Arborist credential identifies professional arborists who have attained the highest level of arboriculture offered by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). There are several paths to the Board Certified Master Arborist, but typically on average each has been an ISA Certified Arborist for a minimum of 5 years before qualifying for the exam (this can vary depending upon other education and experience). This prestigious certification began as a result of the need to distinguish the top few arborists and allow others to identify those with superior credentials.

The Master Arborist examination is a far more extensive exam than the International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist Exam and covers a broad scope of arboriculture management, science, and work practices.

Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. is here for you and your trees!

Eric Putnam is a second-generation tree guy that was raised respecting, caring for, and treating trees. As a Board Certified Master Arborist with the International Society of Arboriculture and decades of experience in the tree industry, Eric has dedicated his life’s work to helping homeowners understand their trees’ needs and ensure they get the best tree care available. Our customers trust in our expertise and understand our priority will always be to ensure their trees get the best care possible—no unnecessary upselling or gimmicks. What makes Eric Putnam BCMA Inc. stand out from other tree care services is our genuine care for the health of the trees we attend to and our attention to safety.

So, whether you need advice on tree selection, guidance on proper pruning techniques, or assistance in dealing with tree pests, an Isa Certified Arborist is your reliable and friendly resource in the wonderful world of trees. So, next time you need assistance with your trees, don't hesitate to call upon the skills of a local certified arborist!

Resources I've found helpful during my research:

Percision Tree - Whats The Difference Between A Landscaper And An Arborist

Mayer Tree - All About Arborists The Top 10 Things You Need To Know

Wikipedia - Master Arborist

ISA - Types Of Credentials ISA Certified Arborist

ISA - Types Of Credentials ISA Board Certified Master Arborist

You’ve most likely been lied to about the PH of your soil.

Thu, 01 Feb 2024 16:45:46 GMT

Liriope's Muse: You've most likely been lied to about the PH of your soil.

There are many tree conditions that present similar to a PH (Potential for Hydrogen) imbalance. Some include herbicide damage, fungal damage, a hormonal imbalance, and even yellowing leaves. But most commonly, an arborist may see yellowing leaves and diagnose the tree with a PH issue. Yellowing leaves can be caused by a number of things, generally it is due to a nutrient lock-out problem as a result of herbicide damage or other biotic factors. Not typically the PH of your soil. In fact, trees create and maintain the PH of their surrounding soil themselves.

Each tree has its own little hydrogen generators in the form of leaves. Through photosynthesis, the chloroplasts in the leaves split the water molecules. Releasing the oxygen(O2) as a byproduct and taking in around 90% of the hydrogen. This hydrogen(H2) combines with carbon dioxide(CO2) to form the essential sugars for the tree, and the other 10% is transported through the stem and expelled through the roots. Plants are constantly going through photosynthesis, so the roots are constantly off putting hydrogen into the soil creating the soil's unique PH.

It is not uncommon for trees to be exposed to temporary PH-changing chemicals multiple times in their lifespans such as run off from construction activities, like paint and sheetrock (or gypsum powder) power washing chemicals (bleach and hydrochloric acid), but trees are resilient and can resolve and regulate most PH imbalances on their own. With the help of the soil’s natural buffering capacity. An unnatural or induced widespread soil PH imbalance can be very harmful to a tree’s health, as its roots have grown used to a certain PH level and changing this can send the tree into shock causing leaf necrosis or discolored spots, withered or twisted leaves, blossom end rot in fruit, overall stunted growth, and can even possibly lead to the death of the tree.

So the yellowing leaves on my tree aren’t solely due to a PH imbalance?

Like in most cases, we can eliminate by science certain ideas. A diagnosis should never be solely blamed on the PH, unless under certain circumstances where a tree has come into direct contact with toxic PH-changing chemicals, but this is only a temporary issue and a tree can usually resolve this on its own. Yellowing leaves can result from a multitude of health issues, which can stump any arborist who is not highly trained and experienced in what to look out for. So unfortunately in some cases, the yellowing of leaves can inaccurately be blamed on a PH imbalance. Typically when this diagnosis is made, the arborist will decide to use a PH changing solution like sulfur (to lower it) or lime (to raise it) and add a nitrogen fertilizer along with it to help the tree in the process. In a few days, the nitrogen fertilizer will have changed the leaves back to their green color and will make it appear healthier but this is only a temporary Band-Aid to the issue. After the tree has used this fertilizer it will begin yellowing again because the original issue has not been resolved. In fact, this process can actually be very detrimental to the tree's health as changing the PH of a tree that is already unhealthy can severely affect it if not kill it.

**This is not directed toward any one tree company or meant to put down our fellow arborists but rather it is just a common occurrence of misdiagnosis that we’ve experienced that has brought unnecessary harm to local trees and would like to inform our community about.

When should I call a Certified Arborist?

Thu, 01 Feb 2024 14:49:01 GMT

Liriope's Muse: When should I call a Certified Arborist

our email is - Ericputnambcma@gmail.com

or on the phone - (832)-385-1836

The Hazards of Dirty Mulch

Tue, 09 Jan 2024 16:03:00 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Hazards of Dirty Mulch

Trees, like humans, are susceptible to disease and infection if exposed to unsanitary mulch, equipment, and other sick or infected trees. So its no wonder that exposing a tree to dirty and unsanitary mulch can negatively affect them. This would be the equivalent of using someone with tb’s used tissue to blow your nose or someone who has hepatitis’s dirty needle to start your iv. Dirty mulch is a biohazard in the same way that dirty medical equipment is a biohazard.

So, what is dirty mulch? Mulch can be dirty in many ways, such as having debris or trash in it, having unhealthy mold festering in it, carrying parasitic pests, or housing harmful diseases and bacteria. But in this blog, we will be focusing on the parasites, bacteria, and diseases that can be found in mulch. Mulch is made up of ground, chipped-up pieces of wood, coming either straight from a tree or recycled wood from construction and palettes. And for the most part, sourcing mulch through those two main sources (or that way) is perfectly reliable and safe. However, it is not until an infected tree’s mulch is added that the mulch becomes ‘dirty’. The bacteria, diseases, or parasites spread from the infected trees mulch to all of the surrounding mulch. Growing and spreading until there is no new mulch to infect, like a plague. Mulch, like trees makes for the perfect breeding ground for infections and pests.

There are thousands of trees mulched each day, the chances of infected and or sick trees getting mixed up in the bunch is extremely common and happens far too often. This is usually because many tree services or land clearing crews don’t understand the significance of adding diseased trees to the mix and most may not even know a tree is infected to begin with. So, mulch fields are constantly being exposed to multiple infections and pests that fester like a cesspool. Making a perfectly deadly cocktail for all trees who come into contact with it.

You cannot compost a disease out of the mulch naturally, it will continue to exist as long as there is organic matter left. It is not until there is nothing but mineral soil left that the diseases will be eradicated. It has been found that these diseases can survive anywhere between 1 – 10 years in the mulch.

There is very little research on this topic as it is a concern that has just surfaced in the last few years, but we do know that dirty mulching has caused an epidemic among the tree community. There are more sick trees now than ever before and we can thank dirty mulch and unsanitary tree practices for this. The rise in sick trees directly correlates with the rise in recycling mulches in the 1970s.

Wood mulch became popular due to the Clean Air Act of 1970, previous to this sawdust, mulch, and tree bark were burnt for disposal. Anyone who grew up in the 1970s and earlier will remember that mulch was not a ‘thing’. People did not regularly mulch their trees/landscapes and you could not find mulch at your local hardware store or garden center. To solve the issue of air pollution from burning scraps, the wood industry had to find an alternative way to dispose of this green waste. The National Forest Service (NFS) proposed the first idea of mulching these wood scraps, they reported that tree bark was a useful source of humus in the forest. (Suggesting that adding the scraps to the base of trees and around plants wouldn’t be a bad idea and can actually benefit them) and so began the American obsession. Mulch started as a way to properly dispose of green industry waste and quickly became a fad. Factories began creating mulch for the sole purpose of gardening and or landscaping. The demand for mulch was high and surpassed the byproducts produced by the mills, so factories started using old pallets, construction site waste, and trees to create their mulch. This changed the purpose of mulching from a helpful way to dispose of mulch, to a way of beautifying your yard at the expense of your plants.

How can dirty mulching be prevented?

We can prevent the creation and spreading of dirty mulch by educating our community and local tree services on the severity of cross-contamination and how to identify sick or infected trees. It is important that diseased trees are disposed of in landfills only, not mulch yards for recycling as they add to the current pandemic. We cannot stop the whole United Stated from using dirty mulch, but we can spread awareness so that people can be conscientious about what they are putting in their gardens and around their trees.

How can I find healthy mulch and ensure it is safe for my tree?

Though finding clean mulch can be tricky, it is out there and available. Many mills sell their mulch for decent prices, but if you cannot find pure wood mulch then dye-free, un-treated, and organic mulch is the next best choice. Avoid bagged mulch from your local garden center as the mulch is typically treated with harmful chemicals, loaded with dyes, and many are sourced from local mulch yards. Most importantly, Avoid buying mulch from mulch yards at all costs, as they are the root of this dirty mulch pandemic. Not only do they carry parasites, fungi, and a multitude of diseases but you may find trash like rusty nails and glass! However, if you do not have access to ‘clean’ mulch, try using a non-native mulch on your tree. Many pathogens only affect certain species of trees, so if you get Elm chips and they happen to be infected with the DutchElm Disease, the chances are it will not affect your Palm tree or Magnolia.

Keep in mind mulch was not made for trees, it does not directly benefit trees. We as a community have flooded our trees with mulch and it wasn’t until after that we have found the few benefits mulching has to offer. So, your tree may be better off without it. That being said, if your tree is mulched do not fret! See THIS BLOG to learn tips on how to properly mulch your trees.

To learn more about this topic, I recommend the following articles:

Edge of The Woods Nursery - Living Mulch an Ecological Alternative

Univeristy of Wisconsin Extension - Wood Mulch and Tree Health

Univeristy of California Agriculture and Natural Resources - Applying Mulch in Gardens and Landscapes

Univeristy of Washington - Wood Chips can Spead Diseases

The Potential of Mulch to Transmit Three Tree Pathogens

Illinois Foresty Association - Tree Pathogen Survival In Chipped Wood Mulch

Alterra WageningenUR - Phytosanitary Risks of Wood Chips

All you need to know about prepping your palm trees for a deep freeze!

Thu, 04 Jan 2024 15:12:53 GMT

Liriope's Muse: All you need to know about prepping your palm trees for a deep freeze

Prepping your palm trees this winter season, during freezing temperatures, is essential to ensure their survival. Palm trees are primarily made of water, so exposing them to direct freezing temperatures can result in severe root damage, stunted growth, damaged palm tissue in the trunk (The tissue responsible for transporting water through the tree’s trunk.), and ultimately the death of your palm tree in the years to come.

So, what proactive measures can you take to help your trees persevere this winter season? At Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. the health of your trees is our top priority, that is why we’ve developed a 4–step plan to aid in heat and moisture retention to protect the trunk of your palms.

First, it is important to be familiar with what kind of palms you may have, as some are more susceptible to freeze than others and some cannot be effectively wrapped. If you find your tree to be susceptible to the freezing temperatures that we are projected to experience it is best that you wrap them. However, if your palm tree is tolerant to the temperatures we are experiencing it may not be necessary to wrap them, rather a biostimulant may just do the job to boost their vitality through the freeze. For example, if we are expected to see a low of 30*F and your palm tree is tolerant to 5*F wrapping your tree is not necessary. (We recommend that you preemptively wrap your palm if we are going to be experiencing temperatures 15*F or less from their tolerance level.)

Second, you will need to gather the following materials:

- Heater tape for plumbing (make sure there on plugs on either end so that they can be connected like Christmas lights around your tree)

- An insulating material of some kind. (moving blankets, sleeping bags, or burlap will do)

~ this layer is only necessary for temperatures below 15*F

- Duct tape to secure the insulating layer in place

- Plastic wrap (moving plastic, saranwrap, or any plastic of the nature will do)

We’ve developed the following formula to calculate just how much materials you are going to need for your unique tree requirements:

- Find your palm trunk median circumference in inches. ( you can do this by measuring the thinnest and the thickest parts of your tree adding the number together and dividing the total by two )

- Measure your tree's trunk height in inches.

- Multiply the height and circumference of the palm tree's trunk and divide by 4. (this is the course or distance between each wrap of the heater tape on the trunk.)

- Lastly, divide this number by 12 to find the feet of heater tape that your tree will be needing.

**Heater tape comes in a wide range of sizes from 25 – 150 feet so if your tree's requirements don’t fit perfectly into a size, it is always best to size up. For example, if your tree needs 37.8 feet of tape it would be best to size up to the 45 rather than down to the 30.

Third step, once you’ve gathered the materials needed for your specific palm tree it is time to wrap. Begin at the base and wrap the heater tape around the trunk leaving 3 – 6 inches between each round, or course. Next, wrap your tree tightly in an insulative layer and secure it with duct tape. (note, this layer is only necessary in temperatures 15*F and below) Lastly, the plastic layer. For this layer, it is important that you thoroughly wrap the tree overlapping each layer at least 3 inches to ensure no gaps. This layer protects the tree from convection and locks in its moisture.

The fourth and final step is the removal of your palm’s fronds. There are two temperatures that can affect your palm trees, one which kills the fronds and one which kills the whole tree and this varies from species to species. For example, if your specific palm species fronds die at 20*F and the tree as a whole would die at 5*F, it is essential to remove your palm's fronds if the temperature is expected to reach 20*F in order to conserve as much of the trees water as possible. This step is harmless to your palm as the fronds would die anyway and they would begin to grow back much quicker than if they were killed by freeze. Removing the palms fronds greatly reduces recovery time and can aid in the survival of your tree.

It is important that you understand what species of palm tree you have, each palm tree has different freeze tolerances and temperatures for palm frond death and palm tree death. If you are unsure of the species of your palm, we recommend using the app called ‘picture this’ to identify it. From there, you should research the different freezing points for your tree.

For example, with the Florida Sabal Palmetto, you will most likely never have to wrap this tree or remove its fronds as its freezing tolerance level is below -5*F.

If you have any questions regarding the species of your palm or would prefer us to wrap your palm tree(s) for you, give us a call and we can come out to give you a free estimate!

Things You Probably Didn't Know About Texas' Coastal Region

Thu, 04 Jan 2024 15:11:30 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Things You Probably Dind't Know About Texas' Coastal Region

There is more to Texas' Gulf Coastal Plains than you may think. It is the home of NASA's Johnson Space Center, America's Space Center. The Flagship Hotel, in Galveston, was the first and only hotel over the water. Texans favorite drink, Dr. Pepper, was invented in Waco. The small historical town of Beaumont is 742 miles from El Paso but only 770 miles from Chicago. And Houston, the most populous city in Texas, is known for its vast cultural diversity having more than 145 languages regularly spoken.

Pop culture aside, Texas' Gulf Coast is rich in American history. Once home to various Native American tribes, including the Akokisa, Karankawa, and Atakapa. It hosted the Battle of The Alamo. Texas' great oil boom largely offset the effects of the great depression and still produces 42.5% of the United States' domestic crude oil. And unfortunately, it was the setting of John F. Kennedy's assassination.

The Gulf Coastal Plains are known to have the most diverse wildlife, vegetation, landscapes, and natural beauty in all of Texas. These Plains span over 360 miles in length, from the Rio Grande Vally to Beaumont, and 100 miles wide at some points. This region is home to over 7.5 million people, amounting to 25% of all of Texas' population, and the Houston - The Woodlands - Sugarland MSA (Metropolitan Statistical Area) houses 98% of the region's population. To put it into perspective, if the Gulf Coastal Plains were a state, in terms of population, it would be the 14th largest state!

Here are some other fun facts I found out along the way:

This region boasts some of the largest oak trees in all of Texas and majority of the state champs can be found here.
Makes up nearly half of Texas.
Thanks to its ample water source and rich soils, this region is a prime location for the cultivation of many crops like rice!
The plains are called home by a wide variety of wildlife including alligators, game, and most notably migratory birds.

The Texas Gulf Coastal Plains are the perfect location for tree enthusiasts like Eric and me, they boast many unique and historical trees and we are lucky to call them our home.

Resources I found helpful during my research:

Texas Comptroller Gulf Coast Regions

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department Gulf Coast Resources

How can I know if my plant was damaged during a freeze?

Mon, 01 Jan 2024 14:07:47 GMT

Liriope's Muse: How can I know if my plant was damaged during a freeze?

A plant's survivability chances are based on its species, as each plant and/or tree has their own unique freeze tolerance levels.

In order to identify whether or not your plant will be damaged by an upcoming freeze, it is important that you familiarize yourself with the species and cold hardiness zone of your plant. This is because each species of plant has 3 separate tolerance survivability levels, the first being the temperature in which causes foliage loss, second, the temperature in which causes plant death, and third, the temperature in which causes root and/or bulb loss.

What is a cold hardiness zone and why does it matter?

The USDA plant hardiness zone map creates a standard by which gardeners and growers across America can determine which plants, crops, and trees will most likely grow and thrive in their zone or location. This is an essential tool that is divided into 10* Fahrenheit zones and updated yearly to ensure accuracy for the coming year.

Freezing temperatures can be very detrimental to your plants, some common signs of damage to look out for after a freeze are droopy and shriveled foliage, like that of an underwatered plant, that is soft and mushy to the touch. Foliage that has turned brown or purplish in color and begun dropping. Additionally, during prolonged freezing temperatures, you may notice your plant and/or trees bark splitting. And if you happen to see this, the chances are you will be burying your plant for the second time... this time without resurrection.

Check out his article to LEARN MORE about what freezing temperatures can do to your plants.

How can I prevent from losing my plants in the future? Plant more native plants! Plants are adapted to the environment or zone they are native to and provide essential food and shelter resources to native wildlife. So keep this in mind the next time you are shopping for leafy beauties, could a tropical hibiscus be able to thrive in a dry cool climate like yours?

Can lightning strikes fertilize trees?

Fri, 15 Dec 2023 14:30:19 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Can Lightning Strikes Fertilize Trees

When lightning strikes, the high temperature, and voltage of the bolts break the bonds of atmospheric nitrogen molecules (N2) freeing the nitrogen molecules and opening them up to bond with oxygen molecules (this is called nitrogen fixation by lightning). These newly bonded molecules are called nitrates. Once produced, the nitrates are carried by rainfall to the ground where they can be absorbed by trees directly through the soil, leaves, or bark and converted into amino acids and DNA.

Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for tree function and is a key component of amino acids, which form the building blocks of the trees’ proteins and enzymes. These proteins comprise the structural materials of all living matter (i.e. the DNA structure) and the enzymes facilitate the many biochemical reactions within the tree. Nitrogen also plays an important part in the photosynthesis process; it is a component of the chlorophyll molecule. The chlorophyll molecule enables the plant to capture sunlight energy and convert it into sugars, which in turn drives the trees’ growth and optimizes fruit yield. Nitrogen is also present in the roots and helps regulate nutrient and water intake.

As you can see, nitrogen plays many important roles in trees and plants, so you can imagine that giving it extra nitrogen can only benefit it. Most atmospheric nitrogen (N2) is not pure and cannot be absorbed by a tree's roots, so it must go through the nitrogen cycle; where special bacteria and decomposers in the soil and on the plant have to break the nitrogen down in multiple steps before it can be absorbed. (See picture below) But with the help of the lightning strike, the roots can directly absorb the nitrates and the leaves don’t have to work so hard to filter the atmospheric nitrogen(N2) via stand-alone nonsymbiotic atmospheric nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

Nitrogen is known as a super fertilizer because it is an essential macronutrient needed for tree function. There are 3 main macronutrients found in trees/plants, Nitrogen(N), Potassium(K), and Phosphorus(P). Each of these macronutrients are essential in the photosynthesis process and without them, the tree cannot make its own food. If a tree is sick it may be running low on these essential nutrients, so a fertilizer is like a boost. It's like taking vitamins when you are sick. However, unlike in most plants, fertilizer for trees is not always the healthiest option and can actually do harm due to the long life span of trees and the excessive growth rate as a result of the nitrogen. It can disrupt the physiology of the tree and the true-to-form growth rate.

So, though thunderstorms may not be the most pleasant, they are great for your trees! Not only do they get to absorb the powerful natural fertilizer but they also get to have any grit and grime washed away.

The reason for the season-al plants!

Fri, 15 Dec 2023 13:51:07 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The reason for the Season-al Plants

There are many traditions associated with winter holidays, many of which include plants! Christmas Cactus, , Holly Trees, Mistletoe, Poinsettias, and Rosemary have played important roles in ancient legends and rituals which have since evolved into the traditions that we know and love today. Christmas is a time of year full of joy, holiday spirit, gift-giving, dashing decorations, and of course the various seasonally symbolic plants, trees, and flowers!

Below are 4 festive plants to spruce up your home this holiday season and some tips about their care. Because, if you want these lovely holiday plants to last until next Christmas season and beyond, it is important to know their specific care requirements.

1 – The Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera X Buckleyi)

Origin:

The Christmas Cactus is native to the mountainous forests of Brazil, where it grows as an epiphyte (or air plant). These cacti typically are found growing on trees or rocks in shaded areas with high humidity levels and only bloom once a year during Christmas time. These blooms come in an array of beautiful colors including pink, red, purple, orange, and cream.

Legend:

One night a Christian missionary who was living abroad prayed to God to show him the miracle of Christmas, and the next day he awoke to a field full of beautiful red and pink blooming cacti. He thought surly this was a message from God, so he shares this experience with the other missionaries. They then used the cacti to decorate the altar in celebration of the Christmas season. And the rest was history! Christmas cacti are still used today to decorate altars and symbolize the rebirth and renewal of each season.

To learn more about the legend of the Christmas cactus, SEE HERE

Plant care:

Like most, these cacti are very dependable, easy to care for, and long living. However uniquely, Christmas cacti prefer partial sun, high humidity levels, and cooler temperatures. These cacti need to be lightly misted once a day and watered only when you notice the top two inches of the soil have gone dry. Which makes them the perfect plant to perch up on a bookshelf or desk in your home. You don’t have to worry about the cold temperature of your room or if it’s too far from a window.

2 – Holly Trees (Ilex opaca)

Origin:

The American Holly tree is native to Northern America and can be found from Massechusetts to Florida and west into Texas and Missouri. These Hollys prefer sandy well-drained soils, so they thrive in coastal regions and dunes. However, it is a very robust tree and has adapted to grow in just about any soil or weather conditions across many states. Like most evergreens, the foliage found on this holly is deep green, stiff and leathery in texture with spiny teeth outlining the sides. American Hollys reproduce the “old-fashioned” way, in that each tree produces either male or female flowers and requires a pollinator. Newly established plants do not begin to flower until around 4 to 7 years of gestation, and it is not until the flowers are in bloom that you can tell the gender of the tree. Hollys, like in most holiday representations, have iconic red globular fruits that grow in bushels it the tips of branches. And though a holly is represented by just two leaves and a couple of red berries, the holly trees are actually very large in size with an average height of 15 – 30 feet but can grow as tall as 100 feet in the wild!

To learn more about the holly tree, SEE HERE

Legend:

To the Romans, Holly was a sacred plant. It was used to honor the god of agriculture, Saturn, during the saturnalia festival during the winter solstice. The romans were known to deck images of Saturn with them, make and share wreaths of holly, and even carried it in processions. Later in the early Christianity days of Rome (before Christianity was accepted) many Christians would actually deck their homes with holly to avoid detection and prosecution by the Roman government. Further down the line, when Christianity became the dominant religion of the empire, holly became a symbol of Christmas and Christianity. And after the crucifixion of Jesus, the holly wreaths took on a new meaning for the Christians. The spiney leaves are said to represent the spines on the crown that Jesus was made to wear. Today, the holly represents eternal life, like how Jesus resurrected.

To read more about the roman legends, READ HERE

Tree Care:

American Holly is known to be the hardiest of the broadleaf evergreens, so an established tree is not hard to keep alive as long as you make sure it has its basic needs. These trees thrive in partial-shade to full-sun and can tolerate any moist, loose, well-draining soil type. Holly trees are resilient to freezing and hot temperatures. So, as long as you don’t live in a drought heavy region with thick clay-like soil, a holly tree may be the perfect addition to your yard!

Learn more about tree needs, HERE

3 – Mistletoe (Phoradendron leucarpum)

Origin:

The Mistletoe is a semi-parasitic plant that is mainly found on deciduous and evergreen trees but is known to grow on hundreds of kinds of trees. Interestingly, they produce their own food but source their water and nutrients from their host tree. The Mistletoe extracts its nutrients through root-like haustoria that grows into the host’s water-producing tissue stealing both water and nutrients from the tree. That said, the Christmas Mistletoe that we know and love today is actually known as the American Mistletoe (Phoradendron leucarpum). The Greek word “Phoradendron” literally means “thief of the tree”. This Mistletoe can be found in dense forests in New Jersey and Southern Indiana to Florida and Texas.

Learn more about their parasitic nature, HERE

Legend:

The Mistletoe first came about in the first century A.D. as a sacred symbol of vivacity and fertility to the Druids after they saw this parasitic plant in full bloom in the harshest of winters. They took a liking to this plant and used it in the ritual of Oak and Mistletoe. (a ceremony which led the Romans to believe the Druids to be “Barbaric”.) The Norse believed the mistletoe plant was a sign of love and peace. There is a Norse mythological tale of a goddess named Fig who lost her son, God Baldor, to an arrow made of Mistletoe. Heartbroken after his death, Fig vowed that anyone who passed beneath the Mistletoe would be kissed as long as it was never used as a weapon again. And since then, the tradition holds. If you pass under the mistletoe you are allowed to kiss any man or woman who also happens to be passing under the mistletoe. If a kiss is refused, it is believed bad luck will befall onto the person who said “no”.

To learn more about the KISS-story of the mistletoe, HERE

Plant care:

The American Mistletoe you can buy in the store is 100% wildly harvested from trees. It is not grown for sale or for sale to grow on your own. Mistletoe is not a plant you can or would want to keep anyway, parasitic nature aside, it is toxic to both you and your furry friends. So, the chances are those cute berries you see on the real mistletoe in store are fake and have replaced the real ones and if you do happen to find yourself with real mistletoe this holiday season make sure you keep the sprigs out of reach from small children and animals. To avoid the spread of this parasitic plant in your neighborhood it is important that it is disposed of properly in your indoor trashcan. Do not dispose of Mistletoe in your compost or outside.

4 – Poinsettia (Euphorbia Pulcherrima)

Origin:

The Poinsettia shrub is native to Central America from Mexico to Guatemala in warm, mid-elevation, tropical desserts. Most wild populations are on Pacific-facing slopes in steep canyons. However, they were once found on rolling hills and vast fields but most wild Poinsettia populations have nearly gone extinct due to their high demand, and it is believed that inaccessibility of the canyons may protect the few remaining wild populations from human disturbance. Poinsettias come in over 100 varieties of colors, but the Poinsettias that usually decorate the garden section of your local stores are the Prestige Red Poinsettias. These Poinsettias have deep green foliage that morphs into a bright red going up the shrub. And though these beautiful bracts look like petals, their actual flowers are situated in the center of them. The flowers are yellow, tiny in size, and come in little clusters. These lovely shrubs can grow up to 10 feet tall and 7 feet wide.

To learn more about the Poinsettia's beauty, SEE HERE

Legend:

Known as Flores de Noche Buena, or “flower of the holy night” in Spanish, there is a Mexican tale of girl named Pepita who wanted more than anything to present the Christ Child with a gift on the Eve of Christmas, but she was poor and had no money to spare. As she walked to church crying that Eve, Pepita saw an angel who told her to gather some weeds from the roadside and offer them to the Christ Child as a gift. So, the girl listened to the angel and began picking a bouquet of weeds from the roadside to take to the church. When she got to the church, Pepita walked strait to the altar and placed the bouquet of weeds on the ground and suddenly, the humble weeds she had just picked burst into brilliant red blooms. These Brilliant red blooms are believed in Christianity to represent the blood that Christ shed for the world, and its shape is said to resemble the star of Bethleham.

Read more about the legends of the poinsettia, HERE

Plant care:

Poinsettias can be pretty tricky to keep alive through the seasons as they are sensitive to temperature changes and susceptible to root rot, but with the right care knowledge in mind you should have no problem keeping these holiday beauties alive for many seasons to come! Potted Poinsettias tend to be more sensitive than those established in a garden. They prefer temperatures of 60-70 degrees and indirect sunlight. It is important that they are situated in a well-draining pot and watered only once the first inch of the soil has gone dry as they are highly susceptible to root rot. Beginning with a healthy Poinsettia is key to ensure its longevity, as many come damaged due to their international travels. (look for plants standing upright with strong bracts and fully colored leaves) These plants will make a perfect addition to your indoor or outdoor collection! (It is important to note that these plants are mildly toxic and can cause rashes if your skin happens to come in contact with the sap. It is also unsafe for consumption as it can cause nausea so keep an eye on children and furry friends around them.)

To read more about year-round Poinsettia care, SEE HERE

To learn about how to transplant Poinsettias into your garden and their outdoor care, SEE HERE

Whether you want to transform your home into a festive oasis with their warmth-filling aromas this holiday season or looking for the perfect gift to give, consider this round-up of beautiful seasonal plants, trees, and flowers as our present to you!

**it is important to note that these seasonal beauties are not easy to care for and can be toxic for your furry friends. So, if your green thumb is a little brown and you're worried your furry buddy may nibble on them, you may be better off with faux greenery this season, and that’s okay!!**

The Beautiful Polyphemus Moth

Fri, 01 Dec 2023 15:29:18 GMT

Liriope's Muse: The Beautiful Polyphemus Moth

In our profession, we often come across the most unique and beautiful of creatures. Today we had the chance to meet a Polyphemus Moth caterpillar!

Polyphemus Moths, Antheraea Polyphemus, are the largest and most common in the giant silk moth family Saturniidae. These moths are native to the North Americas and can be found from southern Canada down to Mexico and in all of the United States except Alaska, Arizona, Hawaii, and Nevada. The typical lifespan of these moths only lasts three short months. They spend 10 days as an egg, 5 to 6 weeks as a caterpillar, 2 weeks in as a pupa in the cocoon, and less than a week as a moth.

Polyphemus Moths lay 2- 3 eggs at a time in up to 3 different groups. These eggs are white in color with a brown ring around the edges and have a flattened oval shape. These eggs then turn into a beautiful caterpillar. (Pictured above)

The Polyphemus Moth caterpillars are some of the largest caterpillars measuring a whooping 2 - 3 inches. They are an electric green color with a reddish-brown head. On each convex segment of their body, they have 6 orange tubercles and bristles. Each abdomen segment has a slanted yellow line with spots that are brown in color. And though these caterpillars may look intimidating with their large size and bright colors, they are completely harmless. They do not bite, sting, or contain venom of any kind. These cute little silky crawlers are strictly herbivores. When transitioning into a moth, these caterpillars tend to find a fruiting tree to call home. They choose a leaf and wrap it in a thick, tough layer of silk and reside there during their transition into a moth. (These cocoons are typically dark brown and oval.)

Adult moths are large with a wingspan of 4 - 6 inches. The upper surface of the wings come in various shades of light brown, yellow-brown, reddish-brown, and greys. Each moth is completely unique in color with the exception of the large eye spots on each hind wing and the small transparent spots on the upper wings with areas of pink. The eye-like spots are ringed with prominent yellow, black, and white (partial).

These creatures have such a short time here on this planet, yet they still manage to make quite the impact. They are essential in the pollination of flowers that bloom at night, as most pollinators aren’t out at this time. These moths also play a vital role in displaying the health of our environment. Monitoring moths gives us information on changes in our environment, like air pollution, pesticides, climate change, and new farming practices.

Fun facts:

-Interestingly, adult moths do not eat or drink causing their short lifespans.

-The Polyphemus Moths get their name from the Greek mythological cyclops, Polyphemus, who had one large eye in the middle of his forehead. Likewise, the moth has a single large eye on each of its back wings.

-These moths like to play dead when startled. Rather than fleeing or climbing away, they fall to the floor and flop around.

What happened to all of the magnolias in Houston?

Fri, 24 Nov 2023 14:48:39 GMT

Liriope's Muse: What Happened to all the Magnolias in Houston

This summer, June-August 2023, the Houston and the greater Houston area experienced record-breaking temperatures and drought. The average temperature in Houston was 88 degrees, beating the summer of 2011’s record by just over a 10th of a degree. In addition to the heat, Houston experienced a devastating drought. This summer was ranked the 11th driest summer in Houston’s recorded history, runner-up to the summer of 1980, only having received 6.23 inches of rain. The grueling heat surpassed summer and crept into September, breaking another heat record. September 2023 is the hottest September to be recorded in Houston’s history!

Magnolias are quite resilient trees; they require little care and are naturally resistant to many pests and diseases like most evergreen trees. They have a possible life span of over 100 years and most varieties can tolerate freezing winters, the summer heat, and moderate droughts. However, the conditions of this past summer were hard on even the most resilient of trees. You see, Southern magnolias (the magnolias native to southern Texas) actually prefer warm sunny conditions, but coupled with a prolonged drought it was just too harsh for many of them. The way a prolonged drought affects even the most resilient of trees, like the Magnolia, for example, is through their water intake. Trees suck water up through their roots to the tip of their leaves using little tubes in the xylem. You can envision these like a tree’s blood vessels. When a drought dries out the soil, the tree has to work harder to pull water from the ground, and doing so it can increase the risk of drawing air bubbles into the tree’s vessels. Which is very dangerous for a tree as it can cause irreversible damage. Picture you’ve made it to the bottom of your iced soda, you can tell there is some liquid still beneath the ice so you can continue to suck only to receive more bubbles than soda. That is what drinking for trees in a drought is like.

Why is this bad? Well unlike us, trees cannot release excess gas. As they try harder and harder to draw up moisture they begin to accumulate more gas in their vessels/xylem system until they can no longer transport water up into their leaves. As soon as a xylem tube is blocked off by an air bubble, it is no longer functional. Imagine this like having an embolism in a human blood vessel. Like in a human embolism, the gas bubbles stop the flow of fluid and can be a death sentence.

Magnolias have little mouth-like openings on the bottoms of their leaves called stomata. Stomata are small pores in a tree’s leaves that allow for gas exchange during photosynthesis. Stomata, with the help of guard cells, also controls the loss of water by being able to close during hot and dry conditions to hold water. During a drought when the stomata open to absorb carbon dioxide, they lose water through transpiration. The more water lost through their leaves, the harder that the tree must suck to replenish it. Thus, making the tree more vulnerable/prone to an embolism.

How does an embolism kill a tree?

As previously mentioned, the roots suck water from the ground that is carried through the tree to the leaves. If one of the xylem vessels is impacted, you may not see too much of a difference. However, if a few xylem vessels in the same area are impacted, you may see small patches of dead leaves in your tree. This is because each leaf is directly connected to a part of the roots through the xylem. So, if xylem vessels are impacted by air bubbles, water cannot be transported to the leaves they begin to die off. If the damage is large enough whole branches can die off heavily impacting the tree's structural integrity and that in itself can kill the tree. However, not all trees succumb to these air embolisms. If moisture is returned to the ground before the tree has neared 50% impaction there is a solid chance that the tree will make it. In the case that a tree survives, the air embolisms cannot be reversed; but as mentioned before trees are very resilient and though the damage cannot be fixed the trees will grow and adapt around this damage.

To conclude, Magnolias, like many other trees in the greater Houston area are dying due to air embolisms caused by a severe prolonged drought.

How Volcano Mulching Is Killing Your Trees...

Mon, 20 Nov 2023 15:12:00 GMT

Liriope's Muse: How Volcano Mulching is Killing Your Trees

A lot of people find volcano mulching to be aesthetic due to its neat and tidy look, you can find it all across cities and in neighborhoods. It is most commonly found in medians, parking lot islands, yards, and just about anywhere a new tree is planted in the city. However, volcano mulching is a very destructive practice and can dramatically decrease the life of your trees. It’s like a disease of sorts, once it pops up in a neighbor’s yard it is bound to spread across the neighborhood.

Interestingly, over-mulching or volcano mulching came from the need to dispose of green industry waste (the byproducts of deforestation, building demolitions, used wooden pallets, and more.) To maintain an environmentally friendly footprint, the green industry waste is recycled into mulch. Due to these high waste volumes, there is an excess of mulch produced that landscapers are encouraged and even pushed to use. Thus, giving them motive to place as much mulch around trees as they see fit.

What is volcano mulching?

Volcano mulching is the term used to describe the landscaping practice of piling mulch around the base of a tree or shrub, creating a volcano-like mound. These mounds typically range from a few inches to a few feet in height and multiple feet in diameter.

Why is volcano mulching harmful to trees?

Volcano mulching is harmful to your trees in many ways. When the mulch is piled high around the base of your tree, the mulch is in direct contact with the bark of your tree. This exposes your tree to constant moisture that can cause the bark to rot and separate from the rest of the tree disrupting the tree’s translocation, or movement of nutrients and water through the tree. The high mulch level can also confuse the tree into thinking it is the soil level making them produce more roots, except these roots grow directly from the bark instead of the root base. These are called adventitious roots. Adventitious roots start off as small hairlike roots that wrap around the tree at the base and take on the form of the mulch mound. These roots can eventually grow into thick roots that will choke or strangle the base of the tree ultimately killing it. However if caught soon enough, the adventitious roots can be cut and/or severed to prevent their regrowth before they completely kill the tree.

That said, mulching is an essential part of tree care and can be greatly beneficial to your tree if done accurately. It can preserve the soils moisture and prevent evaporation, regulate the soils temperature, limit the growth of unwanted weeds, protect the soil by reducing erosion and soil compaction, and can provide the soil with important nutrients.

How can I properly mulch my tree?

Begin by uprooting and discarding any weeds growing in the area that you will be mulching. Next, add a layer of mulch starting 4 inches from the base of the tree and expanding a minimum of 2-3 feet out. (or at least half of the trees canopy) With a depth no greater than 3 inches. When properly mulching a tree, it is important to make sure that the mulch is not touching or covering the tree’s trunk/stem. The mulch mound should take on the shape of a donut rather than volcano.

The Dangers of Pine Bark Beetles

Wed, 08 Nov 2023 15:53:00 GMT

Liriopes Muse: The Dangers of Pine Bark Beetles

Various species of bark beetles attack southern pine trees, they are typically referred to in three groups: the black turpentine beetle, IPS engraver beetles, and the southern pine beetle. These bark beetles are attracted to fresh pine odors/sap and frequently attack trees that have been weakened by disease, injuries such as pruning wounds, broken branches, or gashes in the bark, drought, or other abiotic and biotic environmental stressors. Bark beetles bore in-between the bark and wood of a weakened tree, (the cambium layer) feed on the phloem, and construct tunnels, called galleries, to lay eggs in. Think of the tree's cambium layer as a bone's growth plate, when a growth plate is damaged or broken your bone can no longer grow. When beetles bore into the cambium, they girdle the nutrient-conducting tissues, disrupting the nutrient and water movement in the tree further weakening it. And though pine Bark beetles contribute to the decline and eventual death of many trees, not every tree succumbs to their pine bark beetle attack. It’s what the beetles can bring with them that kills the tree. Bark beetles are known to carry blue stain fungi, which can be very lethal for a tree. Blue stain produces mycelium (a thread-like fungus mass) that colonize in the phloem or vascular system of the tree blocking the flow of water and sugars, ultimately choking out the tree.

Pine bark beetles may also weaken the tree enough to attract termites, which are also attracted to distressed and unhealthy trees. Termite infestations only exacerbate existing problems, as they eat the softwood of trees hollowing out the trunk and limbs weakening the overall structural integrity of the tree, and causing damage too extensive for the tree to survive.

In the end, a tree's ability to survive a bark beetle infestation depends on its allelopathic chemical levels, how soon it is treated, and the extent of the infestation. Some signs that you can keep an eye out for are pitch tubes, sawdust at the base of trees(frass), small pinhole/BB-sized holes speckled throughout bark, the tips of the needles are browning, and your tree looks like it may be going into an early fall. Be aware that bark beetle infestations can span area-wide, due to their ability to fly up to 2 miles to their next tree. So, if there is a tree in your neighborhood infected with pine bark beetles there is a good chance that your tree is not safe. If you ever feel your pines may be infested with pine bark beetles or see a dying pine tree in your area, console with a certified arborist. It is important to take action as soon as possible because if caught early enough the attack can be prevented from spreading.

**This blog has been put in layman's terms for most to understand, if you are looking for a more scholarly article on this subject, I found THIS ONE to be intriguing.

Eclipse Through the Eye of a Tree

Fri, 03 Nov 2023 14:34:00 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Eclipse Through the Eye of a Tree

My father and I were watching a recent solar eclipse, that occurred on October 14th, 2023, and noticed little crescent shapes fluttering in a tree’s shadow and we found it so mesmerizing. My father explained the phenomenon to me, and I too want to share this experience with as many people as possible!

Starting from the beginning, the first-ever solar eclipse recorded by man was dated November 30th, 3340 BCE, when the shadow of a full solar eclipse fell over County Meath, Ireland. For thousands of years, many cultures around the world have documented eclipses in different ways, the earliest accounts being drawn on stones and cave walls, while the later accounts being written on stones and scripts. There are several legends and folklore associated with solar eclipses. Many people were terrified of solar eclipses, fearing it would bring the end of the world and great evil. The main consensus across most cultures was that a giant beast ate/destroyed the sun or the sun god was either sad, angry, or sick; But the solar eclipse was not feared by all, many cultures actually romanticized it, believing the sun and moon were lovers.

So, what does this have to do with trees...? Have you ever looked at the shadows of a tree during a solar eclipse? If so, you may have noticed little crescents shining through the apertures of the leaves creating a pinhole camera of sorts (the camera obscura effect). For centuries people have used the camera obscura effect for art, as it could perfectly invert an image and could be used to trace a highly accurate representation of the image. Later it was found to be a safe and accurate way to document/study the eclipses without the risk of damaging the eyes of the scriber. So next time you happen to find yourself in a solar eclipse make sure to follow the shadows of a tree for a neat surprise.

If you missed this solar eclipse, no worries! You can experience the next total solar eclipse visible to the U.S. on April 8th, 2024 and the next total solar eclipse visible to the U.S. won’t be until August 23rd, 2044.

Meet Ross Our Marketing Guru Who Propelled Our Company to New Heights

Thu, 02 Nov 2023 14:01:13 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Meet Ross Our Marketing Guru Who Propelled Our Company to New Heights

In today's fast-paced digital world and Houston’s extremely competitive tree service market, having a skilled and dedicated marketing specialist is crucial to the success of any business. At Eric Putnam BCMA, inc. , we've been fortunate enough to have Ross, our talented marketing guy, on board since December of 2020. In just a few short years, Ross has revolutionized our company's online presence, leading to unprecedented growth and opportunities. In this blog post, we want to highlight Ross's remarkable contributions and express our gratitude for his invaluable expertise.

When Ross joined our team, one of his primary responsibilities was to build and manage our company website. And what a phenomenal job he has done! With his exceptional skills in web development and design, Ross has created a visually appealing and user-friendly website that truly represents our company culture. Thanks to his expertise, our online platform has become a powerful tool for engaging customers, generating leads, and increasing sales.

In addition to website development and client exclusitivity, Ross has also played a crucial role in optimizing our company's Google presence. He has implemented effective search engine optimization (SEO) strategies, enabling our website to rank higher in search results. As a result, we have experienced increased organic traffic and greater visibility online. Ross's dedication to staying up-to-date with the latest SEO trends and techniques has been instrumental in boosting our company's online visibility and attracting new, potential customers.

**Pictured above is a chart of our yearly jobs comparison since bringing Ross onto our team, as you can see our leads/customer reach has grown markedly! (December of 2023 is not complete as we are only halfway through at the time of this blog)

Without a doubt, Ross's contributions have been pivotal to our company's growth and success. By harnessing his technical expertise, we now possess a strong online presence that distinguishes us from our competitors. Ross's unwavering commitment to excellence and attention to detail have earned him the trust and admiration of our entire team.

We consider ourselves fortunate to have Ross as an integral part of our team. His proficiency in web development and his dedication to enhancing our company's online presence have been instrumental in our skyrocketing success. Ross's contributions have expanded our reach, built brand credibility, and provided us with countless exciting opportunities. We are grateful for his hard work, technical prowess, and unwavering commitment to our company's success.

Ross works nationwide exclusively building tree service companies, and can be found on his company website at:

Working Class Marketing's Website

Working Class Marketing's Facebook

Liriopes Muse: Introduction

Wed, 01 Nov 2023 13:25:57 GMT

Liriope's Muse: Introduction

Hello! My name is Liriope Putnam, I am a student working on my bachelor's in business management and am helping my father run his tree company. Making me a 3rd generation tree gal. My dad, Eric Putnam, and I are working together to create this blog where we will answer common questions about trees, debunking common myths, and sharing facts on interesting topics!

Our family business, Putnam Tree Service, was founded in the 1970s by my grandpa, Charles Putnam, who was a retired bodybuilder and professional wrestler. (See Here to learn more about my grandpa) He was loved by all customers and created the culture, work ethic, and customer service practices that we still use today. As his children came of age, he began training them to be a part of the family business. Those being, Eric, Leif, Lea, and Mark. After the passing of their father, the sons went their own ways. Mark proceeded to work in construction and Leif and Eric branched off the family business and created their own. Leif went off to create Leif Putnam Tree Tech and Eric created Arbortech Consulting. After a few years, Leif too split and began his own construction company but Eric Putnam, my father, continued on the family business. Eric decided to further his studies in arboriculture and received his arborist certification in 1993. He continued to study and in 2014 he became a Board Certified Master Arborist, 1 of less than 20 in Texas and only a few hundred in the world! Holding a BCMA Certification is the peak of one’s arboriculture career. It is the highest certification, comparable to a doctorate degree! In fact, less than 2% of all certified arborists are Board Certified Master Arborists.

Arbortech Consulting was founded in 1993, and used updated technology, practices, processes, and systems that streamlined the estimating and production process to give customers the best services efficiently for rock bottom prices while creating a rapport with them so we can continue to care for their trees. After what seemed like a lifetime of working in the tree industry, Eric Putnam decided to retire. In doing so, he chose to sell his company in 2018. But because he is truly passionate about what he does, his retirement didn’t last long... In fact, within a few months he began working with trees again! And in 2020, Eric went on to create another tree business named Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc.

Eric Putnam BCMA, Inc. is a great improvement to the previous family business. We are dedicated to giving trees the best care possible without all of the unnecessary upselling or gimmicks. We make it our mission to not only treat the trees but to help educate homeowners to understand their trees.

As for me, I never saw myself being a part of the family business. I always thought I would pursue a career in medicine or engineering. In June of 2022, I graduated both high school and college with a diploma and associate's degree in general studies. The following August, I moved to Orlando, Florida with my boyfriend for a year. It was there that I grew and formed a new outlook on life, and working in my family business didn’t seem like too bad of an idea anymore. In fact, I was proud to come back and fulfill what I felt was my destiny. You see I come from a family of entrepreneurs, for multiple generations all of my relatives own their own small businesses (some have a few) and it’s almost a tradition in my family to work for your parent’s/family’s business. So, I moved back from Florida in September of 2023 and began working with my father's company. Something that has always set our family business apart is our genuine care for the health of the trees. We have made it our mission to save trees and I am proud to have the privilege of being a part of this family company!